Retirement Flat - Energy advice

You seem to have considered your options pretty well.

For any all electric property it should be E7 with storage heaters.
Unless your lifestyle means you use the property infrequently this is the cheapest way to heat it.

If the current storage heaters are aesthetically offensive, then replacement with modern storage heaters, quantum or otherwise, should be the only option you consider (in terms of all electric). Quantum sell themselves on having more automation (so the best input level is selected), better insulation, so heat is stored for longer (i.e they give out the stored heat over a larger portion of the next day), they also may have a top up that uses expensive day rate (you don't really want to use this).

If, however, you are happy to set on monitor storage heaters yourself, manually, then standard storage heaters may be the most cost-effective replacement. They should be much cheaper than a quantum storage heater. They just require a bit more manual input.

The most cost effective solution is to keep the existing ones, as despite their looks, there is probably nothing wrong with them. It is just an option to consider.

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Losing the tank would mean no water heated on the cheap rate. If, as you say, you are aware and can live with that, so be it.

An electric shower and an electric hot water tap, while using day rate, should actually be a lot cheaper to run (minus the cost of the expensive hot tap). I know someone who just does not use the E7 tank, and lives quite happily like this. They just use the electric shower and the kettle. It is far cheaper than them heating a 150 litre tank of water they do not use (even if heated on E7 rates).

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The final option is considering the installation of gas central heating via a combi boiler. This would be best best solution in terms of convenience, ease of operation and the ability to have hot water without a tank. There is the higher upfront cost, and the consideration of getting a gas mains connection installed. You also have annual servicing. But, it does fit with your requirements.

This may not even be possible if you live in part of a complex, but again, an option to consider.

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Do not fall foul of any companies marketing super energy efficient heaters with "german clay cores". These heaters, while looking attractive, use the expensive day rate electricity. The system will cost the earth to run and they are usually hugely overpriced. Basically, avoid any company in which a salesperson has to attend.

If you have a hot water tank at the moment, it is probably an old fashioned vented type with a cold water store at the top. Is there a loose lid on the top?

If the hot water pressure is super low, and the cold water is good pressure, this supports that theory. This is because the hot water pressure is determined by gravity and the height of the top of the tank.

The issue arises about what the plumber does with the hot feeds, if you want rid of the tank. He will just have to branch of the cold mains, meaning you just have cold taps all round.

Another option is to get a small slimline pressurised storage tank. This means hot water will be at high pressure. It would also mean you could have a decent normal shower (not a direct electric one) fed from a tank that stored a smaller amount of water at E7 rates.

Edit: Something like this, it is only 55cm in diameter and 71cm high - 90litres.

http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/range-tribune-90-litre-direct-td90-unvented-cylinder

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A fancy cover may interrupt the convection of the heat a bit. But as long as there was enough grills in it, it may be acceptable. Testing it is the only way.

No, that is the point, in a gravity system like that, you would normally have cold tanks in the loft on the floor above and the hot water cylinder the floor below. The height difference between the two is what gives the hot water it's pressure...due to gravity.

In those installed in flats, that loose lid on top IS the cold water tank. it is combined into one cylinder with the hot water store under it. That is why it is so big.

So in terms of hot water pressure, it is determined by the distance from the top of that tank, to the bottom. Hence why your hot water pressure is probably pants.

You cold water will be direct mains pressure though.
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A pressurised tank means that a cold water storage tank is not needed. Meaning the tank can be smaller and the hot water will be at mains pressure too.

@boliston - That pulsacoil is certainly option. The only downside to it is that I have read a lot of anecdotal reports that the system is very unreliable. It is a bit more complex than a standard cylinder hence it seems there is more to go wrong.

A normal small cylinder is lighter when empty, so normally easier to initially install, but seems to require a more specialised installation. It is also simpler in operation so less to go wrong over it's lifetime. It will require services/checks due to it's pressurised nature. So both seem to have pros and cons.

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@ Anthorn

Some of the things you mention interest me.

Was the free water survey to save water?

The shower head you mention will not increase the pressure. But, it may do one of two things.

Be less restrictive, therefore allow more water to flow and in turn use more water and give a better shower.

Or

Have a water saving device, which is more restrictive, uses less water but gives a fine/faster spray, giving the impression of a better shower (kind of like putting your thumb on the end of a hose).

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Also, I am interested as to why, in a house with a combi boiler you have an electric shower. The electric shower will be more costly to run than a shower directly off the combi. A combi should have enough flow and be at mains pressure. This will give you a very good shower using gas as the heat source.

Granted, the cost of ripping the electric shower out and installing a shower fed from the combi may be more trouble than it is worth, especially in cost. But I thought I would point that out.

I am also interested, what did the energy survey say about the electric heating you had in the original retirement home? What set-up was it?

You also say you paid for an energy survey? Was it to get an EPC rating? How much did you pay and who carried it out?