Ground Source Heat Pumps

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  • Patrol
    Patrol Posts: 137 Forumite
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    The H10 response isn't great there.

    What LK Armatur would I need for 22mm and where would I get one. Looks like external thread and I'm fairly confident about replacing it but less confident of getting the right item.

    I'm pretty sure the ESBE isn't functioning properly on B even if A is now substantially improved. I removed the actuator and checked the needle was fully out (B) after the last heat cycle but it has dropped as below;

    16.32 53.7C
    16.36 53C
    16.48 50.9C
    17.01 49C

    (I opened the towel rails up so the P1-G1 pump quietened down. Had re-done the ESBE at about 3pm to make sure I'd done the full A-B so assumed that's why a cycle kicked in within an hour but not so sure now)
  • Patrol
    Patrol Posts: 137 Forumite
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    um, compression then. Good job I haven't got a reading for how many times I've unscrewed the front of the unit to look at something.
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
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    Patrol wrote: »
    um, compression then. Good job I haven't got a reading for how many times I've unscrewed the front of the unit to look at something.

    LOL.
    Beardy will have to let you know the model number, as they change manufacturer for different markets. Otherwise get in touch with the original installer, to supply.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • beardymarrow
    beardymarrow Posts: 311 Forumite
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    lovesgshp wrote: »
    Are the flow valves the same as the pic the link I sent you, or just the normal blue valve?

    Hi, they are blue valves, like this - http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showpost.php?p=65133239&postcount=369
  • beardymarrow
    beardymarrow Posts: 311 Forumite
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    edited 14 May 2014 at 5:58PM
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    Patrol wrote: »
    The H10 response isn't great there.

    What LK Armatur would I need for 22mm and where would I get one. Looks like external thread and I'm fairly confident about replacing it but less confident of getting the right item.

    I'm pretty sure the ESBE isn't functioning properly on B even if A is now substantially improved. I removed the actuator and checked the needle was fully out (B) after the last heat cycle but it has dropped as below;

    16.32 53.7C
    16.36 53C
    16.48 50.9C
    17.01 49C

    (I opened the towel rails up so the P1-G1 pump quietened down. Had re-done the ESBE at about 3pm to make sure I'd done the full A-B so assumed that's why a cycle kicked in within an hour but not so sure now)

    You'd want one of these - http://www.lkarmatur.se/en/LK-Armatur-English/Product-Catalogue/Products-for-heat-pumps--/-Zone-Valves-/ (LK 525 Zone Valve)
    066108 for the valve body and mine is the EMV110-M 230v, so 066060 for the actuator.

    They are sold here - http://eshop.fbcstore.co.uk/epages/BT4148.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4148/Products/%22LK%20525%22/SubProducts/L066071 (other suppliers are available :-) ). Either way it's the 22mm compression one for the valve and the 230V Molex for the actuator.

    Oh, and FYI the pipes didn't need changing at all. He used the same nuts etc. it just slotted straight in in place of the ESBE.

    Looks like this :-
    25jbos5.jpg
  • beardymarrow
    beardymarrow Posts: 311 Forumite
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    beardymarrow wrote: »
    Cheers. There was no CH demand at all that day, it was all DHW.

    I'll check the ground loop pump speed later. I may get in touch with a plumber to get a pressure gauge and filling loop fitted anyway.

    I've got flow valves on all 3 of the ground loop pipes and all are fully open.

    The ground loop speed is max. (I think). It's turned all the way clockwise to the biggest bar, anyway.
    i4g0gw.jpg
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
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    beardymarrow wrote: »
    Hi, they are blue valves, like this - http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/showpost.php?p=65133239&postcount=369

    We are now stuck at 2 obstacles.
    1 No pressure gauge.
    2 No flow valves rate check.

    I cannot tell if the ltrs/sec from the ground loop is correct, as they are rated to the pump size and the flow rate. Pressure is also important, as should be circa 0.5bar in operating mode.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • lovesgshp
    lovesgshp Posts: 1,413 Forumite
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    beardymarrow wrote: »
    The ground loop speed is max. (I think). It's turned all the way clockwise to the biggest bar, anyway.
    i4g0gw.jpg

    Try at level 2 for 24hrs. Hopefully it will not alarm. Check the in/out temps when you can.
    As Manuel says in Fawlty Towers: " I Know Nothing"
  • Patrol
    Patrol Posts: 137 Forumite
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    Thanks, ordered. I've shut the towel rails down again in the meantime.
  • Patrol
    Patrol Posts: 137 Forumite
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    edited 14 May 2014 at 10:02PM
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    For reference this is the cooldown I am getting after shutting most of my heating circuit down. Beardy, if you have the same DHW unit VB 300 / 160 this may help show what it is capable of even with some remaining loss to the heating circuit.
    n.b. it is installed in my utility so warmer than if in a garage.

    At start the towel rails were open. 2 rads on frost, 2 on setting 2 of 5 so won't be opened at current temperatures. UFH on about 35% of recommended setting. Bypass is fully open.

    17.50 53.7
    18.12 52.4 (-0.6 in 22mins)
    18.20 52.1 turned towel rails off about 18.15. (-0.3 in 8mins)
    19.05 50.9 (-1.2 in 45 mins)
    19.50 50.4 (-0.5 in 45 mins)
    21.40 49.5 (-0.9 in 1h50mins)

    With my heating circuits open the DHW off-to-on time can be less than 30 minutes. It is now over 4 hours with a partial shut-off mid cool and I would guess at least another 2-3 hours before the next cycle starts.
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