Solid Oak Worktops - use adhesive on joints?

I am fitting solid oak worktops in my new kitchen. I have cut and fitted them all and are now ready to attach the bolts under the butt and scribe joints. I'd like to know if I should use adhesive on the joints and if so would PVA do the job?
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Comments

  • djheath
    djheath Posts: 453 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Yes, or you could use a tube of colour fill that matches the colour of the worktop. This also comes with some solvent to wipe off any excess that may get on the surface.

    If you use PVA , use the blue bottle one, not the green one so thats its waterproof.
  • Do not glue, solid worktops expand and contract you will have all sorts of problems if you don't allow for this! oil joint including bolt holes and dry fit. also allow expansion joint along back edge of worktop
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • robhav
    robhav Posts: 19 Forumite
    I have left an expansion gap to the rear of the worktop - just a few mm. The upstand will cover this up. If they are oiled and dry joined will they not need to be taken apart at regular intervals for re-oiling?
  • travis-powers
    travis-powers Posts: 647 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    No it's just to seal them, if you use glue on solid worktop because timber moves more across the grain than with the grain, at best the glue joint will crack at worst worktop will split. Some fitters use low module clear silicone on solid worktops but I do it dry.
    Have you oiled the underside? Are you using biscuits in the joint?
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • robhav
    robhav Posts: 19 Forumite
    I have heard of using low modulus trans silicone - would this be flexible enough to give with the wood then?

    I have oiled the underside but only one coat. I have put three coats on the top and sides. I haven't put any biscuit joints in - just three worktop bolts. I do have the biscuit cutter for the router so I could do this easy enough - it would make it easier to fit on my own I think.
  • travis-powers
    travis-powers Posts: 647 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Don't take my word on this as I never use it but low mod silicone never go off so will remain flexible, If you have the gear use biscuits in between your bolts as it makes it so much easier and helps stop cupping.
    It's up to you but I would give the underside a couple more coats as it's never going get done in the future.

    Remember to wear safety glasses when using power tools or you will sitting at home with a patch on your eye like me!speechless-smiley-040.gif
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • ukwoody
    ukwoody Posts: 531 Forumite
    Travis is totally right. Dont use glue on the joint, and I would agree to put another cpl of coats on the underside

    woody
    City & Guilds qualified Wood Butcher:D
  • travis-powers
    travis-powers Posts: 647 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 500 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Hi Woody what's your view on silicone on solid wood joints?
    I don't think it's nessasary but I know some fitters do, I have one mate who use just clear silicone on laminate joints, I always follow the spec and use the colourfill, but he swears by it
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • ukwoody
    ukwoody Posts: 531 Forumite
    Silicon is OK, but you need to be carefull how its applied. If you get it evreywhere or it oozes out, it causes a real pain oiling that area. I persoanlly dont use it.
    woody
    City & Guilds qualified Wood Butcher:D
  • robhav
    robhav Posts: 19 Forumite
    Hi, thx for the advice. I was going to use low mod silicon to seal the glass upstand to the worktop. Is there an alternative to silicon that doesn't leech into the wood and cause problems with oiling?
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