rotten wood...brush on repair stuff?

we have a wooden conservatory that has some slighty damp rotten wood where some water had been standing

its beyond my skills to replace the wood and i think its at the point i could save it

has anyone used that brush on stuff that treats rotten wood and makes it hard ?

looking for suggestions on what brand works best

Comments

  • ukwoody
    ukwoody Posts: 531 Forumite
    I have on occasions used one of these products but really as a last choice. The one I use comes with some small pellets that are drilled into the rotten wood to kill the rot, then a wood hardener (which is actually very good) is used to harden it all up. You then fill over the top.

    I Think it's Ronseal, but it's about 18 months since I last used it, it might be a cuprinol product.

    Whilst it does work, I would stress to you, it really is a temporary measure that will last a finite time as the rot will still progress over time. You can certainly hope for a good couple of years extended life, possibly more depending on extent of the damage.

    woody
    City & Guilds qualified Wood Butcher:D
  • steveo3002
    steveo3002 Posts: 2,731 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture Combo Breaker
    right thanks

    i know its a bodge but im not up to replacing all the wood

    its still fairly sound tbh , water had got trapped behind a trim so its very wet. whats the deal with trying to dry it out first ? its out doors so i doubt i'll ever get it bone dry

    do the treatments go over damp ...or should i leave it bare until some hot weather?
  • ukwoody
    ukwoody Posts: 531 Forumite
    Wait until the better weather. Scrape away as much rot as reasonable - especially any that is soaking and mushy. Leave for as long as reasonably possibly to dry out - certainly a few days in the sun if you can. Treat, then cover.

    Woody
    City & Guilds qualified Wood Butcher:D
  • Canucklehead
    Canucklehead Posts: 6,254 Forumite
    Good morning: We have used this product successfully on a couple of projects....just follow the manufacturer's instructions and you can't go wrong;)

    HTH

    Canucklehead
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
  • ukwoody
    ukwoody Posts: 531 Forumite
    Good morning: We have used this product successfully on a couple of projects....just follow the manufacturer's instructions and you can't go wrong;)

    HTH

    Canucklehead

    and thats just to cover the Band Aid on a split pipe;) :rotfl:

    woody
    City & Guilds qualified Wood Butcher:D
  • Would agree with all the above posts. Have used it before and it gives you a bit of time but does not put off the inevitable.Seem to remember that it is difficult to get off the brush so you may want to use an old one. we used car body filler to fill any holes in our cills and it seems to have weathered ok.
    Good luck
  • harryhound
    harryhound Posts: 2,662 Forumite
    ukwoody wrote: »
    I have on occasions used one of these products but really as a last choice. The one I use comes with some small pellets that are drilled into the rotten wood to kill the rot, then a wood hardener (which is actually very good) is used to harden it all up. You then fill over the top.

    I Think it's Ronseal, but it's about 18 months since I last used it, it might be a cuprinol product.

    Whilst it does work, I would stress to you, it really is a temporary measure that will last a finite time as the rot will still progress over time. You can certainly hope for a good couple of years extended life, possibly more depending on extent of the damage.

    woody

    The rot proofer pellets dissolve leaving voids.

    Personally, I would drill little holes and then using some sort of squirter, inject the wood. [do this at the height of summer after a long dry period]

    When it has dried [a week later?] inject the holes with the plastic hardener solution as many times as necessary.

    [The next Day] fill holes, from drilling and scraping away the too far gone wood, with a flexible wood filler [it comes a a tub of beige stuff and a small sachet of white fluid hardener] When hard sand down to make good.
    Paint: Primer and at least two coats of GOOD top coat (see Which? report on exterior painting).
    Check every year to make sure water is still unable to get at the wood.

    It is only a "temporary measure" but I did my Magnet wooden windows 35 years ago and I am still using them;). I also did my mother's big Edwardian upstairs bay window 12 years ago and that is still OK [ Window cleaners had banged their ladders on the cills, pulling them away from the frame, so the water could get down the crack and rust away the cut nails holding them in place. Idiot painters had bodged the crack with a useless bit of putty and said nothing. All it needed was some long thin rust resistant modern screws to pull the cills back into their slot :mad:]

    www.blackfriar.co.uk/ available at Screwfix.

    www.enjoyyourgarden-online.co.uk/paintstain.htm
  • misgrace
    misgrace Posts: 1,486 Forumite
    ukwoody wrote: »
    Whilst it does work, I would stress to you, it really is a temporary measure that will last a finite time as the rot will still progress over time. You can certainly hope for a good couple of years extended life, possibly more depending on extent of the damage.

    woody


    I agree :D I have used it over the years when I have had to replair wooden frames and cills.
    I used to use a product called 'wood hardener' which is a liquid, comes in a screw top bottle, you liberally brush it on, and this is supposed to knit the wood fibres, and harden them, which in theory it does, but it doesnt last, the next lot of bad weather/damp etc, tennds to weaken it again.
    Then I would use wood filler, I would do all the works, but TBH, your better off replacing the wood with new, as once wood is rotten, really there is no making it better.
  • Canucklehead
    Canucklehead Posts: 6,254 Forumite
    ukwoody wrote: »
    and thats just to cover the Band Aid on a split pipe;) :rotfl:

    woody

    A new DIY plumbing solution...I thought I had heard them all:D


    Canucklehead
    Ask to see CIPHE (Chartered Institute of Plumbing & Heating Engineering)
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