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Testing heating system before water

ajbaker
Posts: 173 Forumite
Hi all,
First of all a big thanks to those who respond to questions on these boards; I have not been able to contribute as much as I hope, but sure am thankful to those who answer my questions!
I have almost finished the installation of the plumbing for a new sealed central heating system in my property. However due to the fact the pipe work is in the floor, directly above lathe and plaster ceilings (expensive to patch/replace!) I would like to test the system before I introduce water! I am confident all joints are water tight but I would like to make sure - after all, 1 error among 60 joints will ruin it all.
Is there any way to test the system for leaks before I introduce water at pressure? Obviously I could introduce a little water at a time, testing sections between isolation valves, but there must be a more professional approach? I have been told about an air pressure test, but have not been able to find any tools to do this. Any recommendations?
Many thanks,
Andrew
First of all a big thanks to those who respond to questions on these boards; I have not been able to contribute as much as I hope, but sure am thankful to those who answer my questions!
I have almost finished the installation of the plumbing for a new sealed central heating system in my property. However due to the fact the pipe work is in the floor, directly above lathe and plaster ceilings (expensive to patch/replace!) I would like to test the system before I introduce water! I am confident all joints are water tight but I would like to make sure - after all, 1 error among 60 joints will ruin it all.
Is there any way to test the system for leaks before I introduce water at pressure? Obviously I could introduce a little water at a time, testing sections between isolation valves, but there must be a more professional approach? I have been told about an air pressure test, but have not been able to find any tools to do this. Any recommendations?
Many thanks,
Andrew
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Before you connect upto the boiler, put a stop end on the return pipe and connect a pressure tester to the flow pipe.
Pump up to 1.5 times working pressure....about 3 bar, Leave it for about 3 hours.
As plumb1 said, check out the hire shops, or ask a friendly plumber to borrow his.......for a pint or two :beer:
rob
<edit> This is the kind of tool you require.....albeit this one is expensive !
http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/630-0000If only everything in life was as reliable...AS ME !!
robowen 5/6/2005©
''Never take an idiot anywhere with you. You'll always find one when you get there.''0 -
You can pressure test using a compressor (air) similar to pressurising car tyres, you will need the relevant connectors and a pressure gauge, most hire shops will accomodateDon`t steal - the Government doesn`t like the competition0
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paul_h wrote:There's one at Screwfix here for £30, pump the system up to the required pressure with a car pump connected to the schrader valve.
You need to block the open ends with push on stop ends and away you go!
Thought bollox...I'll just show the bog standard old fashioned way.!!
rob :rotfl:If only everything in life was as reliable...AS ME !!
robowen 5/6/2005©
''Never take an idiot anywhere with you. You'll always find one when you get there.''0 -
How to make your own pressure testing fitting.
You will need:
1. 15mm straight push fit fitting (the removable type)
1. 15mm Yorkshire stop end.
1. Length of 15mm pipe about 4 inches long.
1. Tyre valve fitting.
1. Tyre valve removal tool (dust cap)
Get hold of a car tyre valve fitting from any place that fits tyres. You want the full valve fitting (the part that sticks out of your car wheel)
Now remove all of the rubber from the valve fitting, use a Stanley knife & CARE!
Now remove the inside valve (the part that you press to let the air out of the tyre) as you don’t want to melt it when soldering.
You can get a special tool to remove the valve….but you can also get dust caps that have an end on them to remove the valve (your tyre place may have one)
Get a Yorkshire stop end & drill a hole in it to accommodate the stripped valve assembly.
Fit the valve into the hole.
Fit the stop end to the 4 inch piece of pipe & solder it to the pipe at the same time as you solder the valve fitting into the hole in the end of the stop end.
You will now have a piece of 15mm pipe with a tyre valve sticking out of one end.
Refit the inside valve that you removed for the soldering to the valve fitting (when the pipe is cool…obviously)
Now fit the open end of the pipe you have just made into 1 end of the push fit fitting.
You can now fit this “fitting” to your pipe work & you have a way to pressurise the system simply by using a car foot pump.
Obviously the above can also be made in a 22mm version.
I have used this homemade device loads of times to pressure test pipe work & it works perfectly.
I don’t rely on the foot pump & once I have pressurised the system I remove the pump & take a pressure reading of the system with a separate tyre pressure gauge….then test again in a few minutes.
Hope this helps,
UB0 -
uncle_buck wrote:How to make your own pressure testing fitting.
UB
Think you may need to add a few pictures to your description. I got lost half way through that :doh:
Ingenious though ! :T
rob
<edit. I got it now !! geez I'm so slow ! :rotfl: >If only everything in life was as reliable...AS ME !!
robowen 5/6/2005©
''Never take an idiot anywhere with you. You'll always find one when you get there.''0 -
Read it a few times & I'm sure you will get it.
Anyway all will become apparent when you make one!
Regards, UB0
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