Advice on kitchen plumbing

MrBear1980

Hello,

For our new kitchen we are moving our sink and washing machine to the adjacent wall and I was hoping to modify the supply pipework myself. In addition to this, our house (like all the other identical terraced houses) has the stopcock nicely hidden away in the corner totally inaccessible. The stopcock is also seized open. I would like to put in a new stopcock underneath the new sink location. The list of elements I need to put in are as follows:

1. New stopcock
2. Gate valve for turning the garden tap on/off.
3. Sink cold feed.
4. Sink hot feed.
5. Washing Machine cold feed.
6. Washing Machine hot feed.

The following picture shows how I was planning to do it and gives a fairly good representation of where everything would be positioned on the wall.

I would appreciate it if any plumbers or experienced DIYers could just cast an eye over it and tell me if I have got anything wrong or just give some helpful advice.

Thanks very much.

robv_3

Don't use a gate valve as after a few years they leak when closed and seize open. Best use a normal isolation valve and if possible a full bore version.

bookduck

Don't use a 'normal brass' stopcock, but use one with arsenic in it - goes by the name DZR type and if it goes into the ground use gunmetal one.

dont fully open the stopcock.

I put some Vaseline around the shaft/nut as a lubricant.

No cold water tank?

Put ball valves on all pipes - only about 40p and you will be able to isolate the water in future without switching all of your water off.

MrBear1980

No cold water tank?

Not quite sure what you mean. This is just for the kitchen. The blue arrow pointing up towards the top of the picture is supposed to represent the rising main going off upstairs to the cold water tank in the loft.

Thanks for the info about the DZR stopcock.

lawrie28

How easy it is to move the stopcock? Our new house has one in a very unconvinient place restricting use for cabinets in the kitchen, so moving would be good.

BobProperty

You need a drain off just after the new stoptap, just on the corner where it turns from horizontal to vertical.
You don't need a DZR fitting unless the water is very hard in your area IIRC ( I've got dead soft water so all these DZR and Water Softeners aren't something I see.)
You should remove the pipes running to the fittings you are removing where possible rather than just cutting them off and capping them. If you can only cut them back and cap them, try to cut them back as much as possible, otherwise you are creating what is sometimes termed a "deadleg". i.e. a length of pipe which will not have any movement of water in it.

plumb1_2

Dont use cheap 40p valves you will regret this, as they will leak with age.
Use full bore valves £4 each and fit a non-return valve to your outside tap and other supplies.
Yes a normal stop tap will be ok, and it will need a drain off, and as mentioned do not leave any dead-legs in your pipework.
Dont skimp on the cost of materials.

plumb1_2

link for type of valve
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/29086/Plumbing/Pegler-Brassware/Pegler-T-Ball-Valve-15mm-Red

bookduck

BobProperty wrote: »

....You don't need a DZR fitting unless the water is very hard in your area IIRC ( I've got dead soft water so all these DZR and Water Softeners aren't something I see.).

Thanks for the comments. For me the few £ extra for a DZR and not have to go down there for a few years is worth it.

I live in Kennington and have to replace my stop !!!! soon as the body of the tap is corroded. All rhe taps in the basin and bath are also corroded and two have cracked bodies, but have no idea if I'm in a IIRC area.

Thanks for the Ball valve tip Plumb1, I'll get some expensive ones now instead