Gas central heating on constant or timer?

HappyMJ

oldskoo1 wrote: »

Yes i would say 17c 24/7 would be cheaper than 20c timed

I have tested it a few times in 2 different houses

However, 17c all day and off overnight is cheaper still. I dont notice a chill in the house / cold walls, it's warm again by the time i get up. 17c timed is ultimately the cheapest, but where do you draw the line on comfort. I would advise only using the CH when you need it and set it to come on 40 mins before you get in / up. It needs to be 21c in the living areas and 18c in bedrooms.

Whilst 17c might be warm for my system it might not be adequate for yours. I run with 17c all day and 17.5c at night with an automatic programmable thermostat. Because it is situated in a big hall with a smallish radiator the setting translates to 21c in the living and sitting rooms and 18c in the bedrooms which are all controlled by TRV's. You should aim for those temps to be baseline comfortable.

If you are comfortable with 17° then why not set the central heating to 17° timed? Assuming you are out of the house and the heating is timed to be off then timing it will save a little money.

neilrlsmith wrote: »

Having spoke to Vallianrt and a plumber I now realise I have other issues which kind of void my original question.

I have two issues:-
1) The anti clycling symbol is on. That means that there is a blockagae and the pump is working harder to try and distribute the water (for those that didnt know )
2) The pump is nowehere near big enough for my house.

So that constant v timer question is irrelevant for me. My bills will be huge until I resolve these issues!!

How big is your house?

oldskoo1

HappyMJ wrote: »

If you are comfortable with 17° then why not set the central heating to 17° timed? Assuming you are out of the house and the heating is timed to be off then timing it will save a little money.


How big is your house?

It is rare that the house is unoccupied, someone is usually there so the heating stays on all day. I'm sitting in a t-shirt now.

neilrlsmith

HappyMJ wrote: »

If you are comfortable with 17° then why not set the central heating to 17° timed? Assuming you are out of the house and the heating is timed to be off then timing it will save a little money.


How big is your house?

4+2 (loft) detached 1940s house. c 2800 sq ft.

Have a Valliant Ecotec 637 - 37KW. No investigating whether that is powerfuil enough.

Cardew

It doesn't matter if your house has the insulation properties of scout tent, or is built to the highest possible insulation standard, keeping heating on 24/7 at xC will be more expensive than having it timed with the thermostat still set to xC!

Quantifying the savings will depend on the length of timed heating and insulation properties of the house. The better the insulation, the lower the savings.

These threads always seem to gravitate to 'I find it better/cheaper/warmer to have the heating on 24/7 at a lower temperature than xC, rather than timed at xC'

HappyMJ

neilrlsmith wrote: »

4+2 (loft) detached 1940s house. c 2800 sq ft.

Have a Valliant Ecotec 637 - 37KW. No investigating whether that is powerfuil enough.

You did say 2800 earlier but didn't give the units so I didn't quite get it thanks...

A very large property then...at more than twice and closer to three times the average....So about 260 sq metres... assuming no insulation and a 24/7 heating requirement at a heat loss of about 250kWh/sqm...would be about 65,000kWh per year plus any hot water usage and normal electric usage. A 37kW boiler will be sufficient.

I think at £350 a month it's quite reasonable.

neilrlsmith

HappyMJ wrote: »

You did say 2800 earlier but didn't give the units so I didn't quite get it thanks...

A very large property then...at more than twice and closer to three times the average....So about 260 sq metres... assuming no insulation and a 24/7 heating requirement at a heat loss of about 250kWh/sqm...would be about 65,000kWh per year plus any hot water usage and normal electric usage. A 37kW boiler will be sufficient.

I think at £350 a month it's quite reasonable.

Bloody hell. I need to work harder then

But I still have the issue of the recycle symbol on which, according to Valliant, means the pump is struggling for a reason as yet unknown but properly due to a blockage. Plumber on route...

HappyMJ

neilrlsmith wrote: »

Bloody hell. I need to work harder then

But I still have the issue of the recycle symbol on which, according to Valliant, means the pump is struggling for a reason as yet unknown but properly due to a blockage. Plumber on route...

Just went back to read your post in a bit more detail...you said you suspect it's averagely insulated... Can you check? I'm assuming solid walls so they won't be able to be improved at any reasonable cost. What level of insulation do you have above the attic conversion? What type of windows do you have? How many? Do you have a EPC?

Personally I wouldn't use the electric underfloor heating. It will cost much more than using the gas central heating...even if you leave the GCH on all the time.

neilrlsmith

HappyMJ wrote: »

Just went back to read your post in a bit more detail...you said you suspect it's averagely insulated... Can you check? I'm assuming solid walls so they won't be able to be improved at any reasonable cost. What level of insulation do you have above the attic conversion? What type of windows do you have? How many? Do you have a EPC?

Personally I wouldn't use the electric underfloor heating. It will cost much more than using the gas central heating...even if you leave the GCH on all the time.

10 year old double glazing thoughout. Kitchen has ALOT of glass but bi-folding doors are 6 months old. Unsure what insulation is in attic so need to ask architect but loft conversion is 6 months old.

Current efficiency rating is 62.

Double glazed windows on ground floor = 7
Double glazed doors on ground floor = 3 plus 5 way bifolds
One old drafty fron door with thermostat opposite

DG windows on 1st floor = 11
DG windows on 2nd floor (new loft conversion) = 4
one set of double glazed doors (juliet balcony)
2 velux


Really appreciate your help.

HappyMJ

neilrlsmith wrote: »

10 year old double glazing thoughout. Kitchen has ALOT of glass but bi-folding doors are 6 months old. Unsure what insulation is in attic so need to ask architect but loft conversion is 6 months old.

Current efficiency rating is 62.

Double glazed windows on ground floor = 7
Double glazed doors on ground floor = 3 plus 5 way bifolds
One old drafty fron door with thermostat opposite

DG windows on 1st floor = 11
DG windows on 2nd floor (new loft conversion) = 4
one set of double glazed doors (juliet balcony)
2 velux


Really appreciate your help.

So quite poor on the efficiency rating then...the more I read the more I think that £350 a month is fine. What does your EPC say your energy usage should be per sqm (it incudes all usage...not just heating)? It is a large house and will cost quite a lot more than what you see quoted as average bills.

neilrlsmith

HappyMJ wrote: »

So quite poor on the efficiency rating then...the more I read the more I think that £350 a month is fine. What does your EPC say your energy usage should be per sqm (it incudes all usage...not just heating)? It is a large house and will cost quite a lot more than what you see quoted as average bills.

Floor area is actually 246 sqm.
EPC says 214kwh/m with a potential of 164kwh/m.

I must point out that this was done BEFORE the building works so is based in 196sqm

I have a heating engineer on route so he may have some thoughts. He'll give me 30 minutes for free...