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Re-fitting electrical sockets
Comments
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if they are too long, still worth checking if both willl screw in and see how much you need to trim them by, then using a small hacksaw trim them to size.
I had a similar problem and one way i sorted the problem is to
1) with one hand align the socket into the place where it looks right
2) insert a long screw and find the hole and tighten a little..
3) insert proper sized screw on otherside, probe and then tighten
4) remove first screw while holding the socket and fit proper screw
Ive found trying to fit the screw and socket together never really work so its best to try a different less sensible approach.ummm...0 -
The (like-for-like) replacement of a wiring accessory does not fall under the Part P system, whether in a special location or not.robv wrote:It could be because your doing work in a special location and are not registered as a competent person as per part-p so need building regs to do the work?0 -
Especially as it's actually a refit of the original (at least as I read it) socket to the wall - no mention of rewiring it.There are 10 types of people in the world, those that understand binary and those that don't
In many cases it helps if you say where you are - someone with local knowledge might be able to give local specifics rather than general advice0 -
I sometimes find that there is too much play in the free lug, and it drops down below the level of the hole in the plate. Perhaps if you used something to hold up the free lug, things would line up more easily?
SJB0 -
Try altering the angle of the faceplate and pulling it to on away slightly from the side you put the screw into first. Screw the first screw in a few threads leaving it as loose as possible. Now pull the plate (gently) the other way and angle it again but in the opposite direction. Now try to get the second screw in. I'm sure it's a case of the screw holes being at a slight angle and not allowing the first thread to bite!
You could also try bending the lugs to align them squarely. Be careful though as they are not that strong and obviously ensure the juice is off!Keep Smiling
Site member number 24
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A slight angle will stop the screw going in and longer ones can be a curse. If your threads are OK, do not buy longer screws, ask for 'screw extensions'.
You can screw the extensions in first to bring the thread out flush with the wall and then use the standard screws.
Buchos0 -
Hi - I would get an electricain to get the job done. SAves time and job well done. Yup it costs, but try to get someone who is good with electrics0
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I suugest you use a long nail or thin screwdriver to sound the inner screwhole, making sure the holes are properly aligned. Then partially tighten one screw afer another in turn. I am sure you would not need an electrician for that!0
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You need to screw in to the adjustable lug first and then move the face plate until the other hole lines up with the fixed lug.
I would say the screws you are using are just too short for the job now. Longer screws cut to the right length should solve the problem.0 -
This will permanently damage the threads and prevent the screw from "starting".big_ste wrote:You can always cut them down a bit with a pair of pliers though.
The best (and only) way to shorten M3.5 back box screws is to screw them into a lug removed from an old back box, saw off excess with a junior hacksaw, and then withdraw the screw from the lug. This withdrawing "restores" the thread, allowing it to enter the lug more easily.0
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