Locks on a Vauxhall Vectra 1.8

custardy

lmf dont do codes to my knowledge.
i'll try and source your engine code later.

im a bit far from you

lmf also try and price match if you can find cheaper

sarah1975uk

custardy wrote: »

lmf dont do codes to my knowledge.
i'll try and source your engine code later.

im a bit far from you

lmf also try and price match if you can find cheaper

Lol just realised your in Edinburgh pmsl yes a tad to far eh!

custardy

engine code for the 1.8 should be x18xe

the 18 relates to engine size

if you get a remote for the central locking.
to program
sit in the car
switch on the ignition(dont start)
the system is in programming mode for 30 seconds
briefly press lock or unlock on the remote
the central locking should lock/unlock to show the remote is programmed

sarah1975uk

custardy wrote: »

engine code for the 1.8 should be x18xe

the 18 relates to engine size

if you get a remote for the central locking.
to program
sit in the car
switch on the ignition(dont start)
the system is in programming mode for 30 seconds
briefly press lock or unlock on the remote
the central locking should lock/unlock to show the remote is programmed

Thanks custardy, still looking for a cheap cam kit and water pump now lol see if i can get it any cheaper than the one we found the other day on the site you suggested. been quoted 60 quid labour to do the work. Just need the parts now lol

anewman

If the Vauxhall key fob approach doesn't work, you may be able to get an alarm system installed for about £200 with a remote key fob that will control the central locking - plus you'll get an alarm if your car doesn't already have one.

I guess from above posts £200 would be a bit much, but if you didn't have an alarm and was considering getting one anyway it was probably worthwhile mentioning.

As for the cam belt, I would be very wary of Ebay etc. Your engine depends on that belt *NOT* snapping. If you get a non-genuine one, or one off ebay that's been stored in a warm room for 6 years, the risk of the belt snapping potentially increases and as mentioned above much more expensive to repair. I would look into independent Vauxhall specialists or Vauxhall dealers for the belt itself.

sarah1975uk

Been looking at the head gaskets online too. Dont seem too expensive and just wondering if i should get that done too as a precautionary measure as even i know the older cars are prone to having this problem with their cars. Just thinking ahead really, and probably more cost effective to get a mechanic to do the head gasket cam belt kit and water pump all at the same time? Regarding the Head Gasket i know when these go mostly need a new engine which would not be cost effective to ever replace. So just thinking if i replace it then future problems then avoided? Also know that there are mechanics that take the !!!! with labour charges can someone let me know how long it should take to change the
Head Gaskett
Cam Belt Kit
Water Pump

Just gives me some idea

Lorian

Problem is knowing when to stop. Personally I wouldn't do the head gasket, but I would:

Clean and or replace the rocker cover vent hoses. Also clean the hole the small vent hose connects to on the throttle body as this is the negative pressure pipe for the crankcase that helps to keep pressure off the head gasket. Vauxhall quote £600+ to change a head gasket (rip off!) These two actions should help its life.

Definitely worth checking there are no broken exhaust manifold studs.

At the same time clean the throttle body, paying particular attention to the Idle Air Control valve.

I could go on for pages, probably easier to look at the first post in this thread for all the common issues:

http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=20449

I think the engine designation will be X18XEV (I could be wrong) it's usually stamped on the top of the housing to the right of the exhaust manifold.

anewman

I wouldn't touch the head gasket unless compression testing shows it is failing. Doing the head gasket during cam belt and water pump change would definitely be easier but would still add on about an hour and half (probably more) due to need to depressurise fuel system, disconnect all pipes, wires etc etc and remove the head. You would also need new head bolts. Unfortunately it's the labour that costs the money.

If you have any "mayo" under the oil filler cap, that could be due to the current weather and short trips. A compression test is the best way of determining whether the head gasket needs changing (but oil in coolant and oil level rising is a guaranteed sign). Worst that is likely to happen when headgasket goes is cracked or warped cylinder head, needing replacing or skimming.

When the headgasket does go, it's probably mostly people continuing to drive without noticing the car overheating and the coolant disappearing that potentially warps and cracks the cylinder head (it is continued excess heat that kills it). Keep checking your coolant level weekly (like every car owner should - I think most don't care until it stops working) and check under the oil filler cap every-so-often and examine coolant for signs of oil. My understanding is if your cylinder head is aluminium cast, you have less to worry about than if it is cast in iron.

I think generally people don't replace the head gasket as a preventative measure.

goldspanners

sarah1975uk wrote: »

Thanks custardy, still looking for a cheap cam kit and water pump now lol see if i can get it any cheaper than the one we found the other day on the site you suggested. been quoted 60 quid labour to do the work. Just need the parts now lol

please dont buy a cheap timing (cam ) belt,this will more than likely cause you more trouble in the long run,get a Gates timing belt or the manufacturers,which will more than likely be a Gates belt anyway,they are used by most manufacturers and are widely know in the trade as being the best.dont scrimp on the belt,it will only be around £10 more than a cheap belt anyway.

sarah1975uk

goldspanners wrote: »

please dont buy a cheap timing (cam ) belt,this will more than likely cause you more trouble in the long run,get a Gates timing belt or the manufacturers,which will more than likely be a Gates belt anyway,they are used by most manufacturers and are widely know in the trade as being the best.dont scrimp on the belt,it will only be around £10 more than a cheap belt anyway.

I didnt mean cheap in quality just cheap in price £47 is the cheapest i have found have emailed to check is definately a vauxhall branded part not an imitation