Does anyone else make their own clothes

Mrs_Flittersnoop

Another of my pet hates, champys! (sometimes I wonder why I sew? ).

Ok, some tips I have picked up over the years are:

1. Try sewing the underarm seam (from notch to notch along the bottom of the sleeve if you see what I mean) first. Then pull your gathering stitches so that the top of the sleeve 'cups' inwards and pin it every so often into the armhole (place pins at right angles to the seam). I always sew sleeves in 'the wrong way up' (according to some experts), with the gatherings on top so that I can smooth them out of the way and stop the puckers forming.

2. Try 'stitch plus' when gathering (I think that's what it's called). Basically you hold down the back of the presser foot as you sew, so the fabric gathers slightly underneath the foot. Then as you get lots of fabric under the foot, gently let the fabric go, and hold the foot down again for the next couple of inches or so, until you have gathered all the length you want. Easier and more evenly gathered than stitching a row of stay stitching and pulling up.

If all else fails, and the sleeve still refuses to set in without puckering, try sewing the seam again about a quarter of an inch (5mm) away from the first seam (towards the shoulder), this has the effect of flattening the sleeve cap a little which gives a little more fabric to set the sleeve into (does that makes sense?), and should help you to avoid the puckers.

3. It depends on what fabric you are trying to use, some polys and synthetics are horrible to try and set in without puckers. If all seems impossible you could try flattening the sleeve cap on your sleeve pattern, instead of having a deep upside down 'U' shape along the top (from notch to notch) you redraw the cap line a little inside the original line, thus making the sleeve cap slightly less curved and hopefully easier to set the sleeve into the armhole.

I used method (1) to set my sleeves into my jacket yesterday and they went in like a dream - this is Very Unusual for me :rotfl: but it worked, so I wasn't arguing. It helped that the fabric is a soft drapy cashmere which eases and steams beautifully though.

HTH a bit.
Mrs Fxx

champys

Thanks a lot Mrs F. - the 'stitch plus' idea is very interesting - I will certainly try that out. I also like the idea of simply flattening the sleeve cap a little, why have I never thought of doing that :-)
Off now to complete the rest of my dress, although I still need to try on the top part to see if the sleeves are passable.

Ch.

Mrs_Flittersnoop

Good luck champys, hope it all works.

Should add that if you decide to flatten the sleeve cap, just don't do it too much, because you will take out the nice cupping effect which makes the sleeve fit over your shoulder and will make the sleeve tight.

HTH
Mrs F x

lindens

MrsF - you were advising me earlier about rotary cutters.
I think I need one, i recycle denim jeans into bags etc and not only is it time consuming cutting out with scissors but I can only do it for so long as I am getting very sore knuckles from the scissors as denim is so thick :rotfl:

The trouble is we have a tiny 2 bed house with no table, so currently I use my ironing board for cutting out and pinning. Will i be able to get a cutting mat that sits on that, or I suppose I can use the floor. It can be stored under my sofa when not in use or do they roll up?. Can you confirm I can get pinking blades for the rotary? many thanks.

Mrs_Flittersnoop

Hi lindens. Sounds like you need a rotary cutter to me!

The cutting boards come in different sizes; I have two of the largest size (because I dressmake) and one which is about 30cm x 20cm I think - it came in a pack with a cutter - OH bought it for me years and years ago. To be honest I think if you can manage it, I would get a medium sized one and store it under the sofa -the ones I have do not roll up as they are rigid, and I slide mine behind a cabinet we have in the dining room.

Hope this link works: http://www.cottonpatch.co.uk/acatalog/Cutters.html

it shows the various blades you can get etc. Probably to begin with I would get a 45mm one, they are more manageable when you're just learning. The Cotton Patch link above also sells boards and all things rotary cutter. Hope this helps.

Mrs F x

champys

lindens - my cutting mat is only 17 by 23 inches and it will sit on the ironing board provided you only cut out small-ish items. Should be OK for bags, and indeed as you say there is always the floor for anything bigger.
It is so thin that here it is usually stored upright behind something - sofa, cabinet, desk etc. Doesn't take any space at all. Rotary cutters are great, once you have used them you'll never go back!
Don't know about pinking ones, though - but maybe mrs F. does.

lindens

Thanks all - I am def going to get a cutter! I will go for 45mm.
I do have a cutting board for my cardmaking I think its 18" x 12" so I might try that first and then buy a bigger one if its not big enough.

top_drawer_2

Hi,

I started classes today in sewing and used a rotary cutter and it was fab! Is there an alternative to cutting boards - something which can be rolled up/folded as I live in a shared house?

Jen

beemuzed

Just have to share the fact that after about eight weeks of procrastinating I've finally cut out the fabric for DH's nightshirt! I love sewing (tho' keep telling myself I have no time!) but absolutely loathe cuting out! Don't know why, but I just do. Any tips to change my mind very welcome!

Dazi

beemuzed wrote: »

Just have to share the fact that after about eight weeks of procrastinating I've finally cut out the fabric for DH's nightshirt! I love sewing (tho' keep telling myself I have no time!) but absolutely loathe cuting out! Don't know why, but I just do. Any tips to change my mind very welcome!

Find a friend who likes doing it

Me and a friend used to make national and greek dance costumes and I hate cutting out so she used to do it all, I did do most of the sewing though, oh and trawl the charity shops for unusual material (or dresses) to utilise.

I have finished the nappy stacker I was making tonight and have to say, give me a pair of bloomers to sew anyday! (please see comment above re making national dance costumes - thats why I was making bloomers).

I miss making the costumes and miss seeing the kids in them, especially the younger ones in the national costumes, they looked like little dolls. awwwwwwww

Wasn't so happy when we made the odd 'ordinary' dance costume, I sooooo do NOT like sewing lycra