Best Approach for this Patio mess!

sujsuj

Hi, I’ve got these old, rugged brick-effect tiles in my backyard. I think they’re probably 30–40 years old. They seem to be cemented/bedded down, currently weed growing in joints.

The whole area is looking quite messy now, and I’ve started removing some of the border tiles. I’m trying to work out the best approach before I go any further.

My current plan is:

1. Pressure-wash the tiles once the hosepipe ban is over.
2. Remove the tiles one by one.
3. Clean and check the tiles and the base underneath.
4. Re-level or repair the base where necessary.
5. Put some suitable mortar/bedding underneath and relay the tiles.
6. Fill the gaps between the tiles with dry/kiln-dried sand or another suitable jointing material.

I’d also like to avoid weeds growing between the tiles again. Is there a particular jointing sand or compound you’d recommend that would still allow water to drain but reduce weed growth?

The area is approximately 8 × 4 metres.

I’ve attached some photos. Could you have a look and give me some guidance on the best way to tackle this? I’d particularly appreciate advice on whether I should simply clean and relay the existing tiles, or whether there’s anything more substantial I should do with the base/drainage while I have everything up.

Thanks!

gwynlas

Personally I would lightly clean and relay existing tiles as they give the appearance of old brick and once done it should look quite good.

Whatever you put in the joints weeds will grow so it is just a matter of keeping on top of them whether hand weeding, metal brush or weedkiller

Boohoo

Not very MSE but I would remove all of them and get some new slabs or if you like put artificial turf because I think removing and cleaning all them will not look good when finished.

stuart45

The base and sub base prep depends on how much time you want to spend on it. You can either have a solid base with mortar joints, or just a sharp sand base with flexible sand joints

bjorn_toby_wilde

A couple of those that you’ve turned upside down look to have mortar or adhesive pretty well stuck to them. The problem you may face is that when cleaning the mortar off to relay them you will crack and chip some. It’s inevitable really.

Will you have enough if that happens?

As Stuart45 says, you can point between with mortar. That option should stop the weeds but it’s time consuming and hard on the back.

I’d avoid the one part resin jointing products like Fastfix with that type of brick effect as it would be impossible to keep out of all the grooves in the tiles. In my experience they aren’t that long lasting anyway.

Maybe think about laying something else instead?

sujsuj

Thanks very much for the input.

My aim is to keep the renovation costs to a minimum, which is why I’m hoping I can sort this out mainly with some cement/mortar mix rather than having to completely rebuild the patio.

I’ve lifted/turned over a few of the tiles, and it looks like there is already some mortar underneath them, but it’s mainly around certain corners rather than covering the whole tile.

So I’m wondering if I might be able to get away without completely removing all of the old mortar. My initial plan is to clean up what is loose, leave the solid existing mortar in place, and then add new mortar where needed to adjust and level the tiles before putting them back.

Hopefully, this would allow me to reuse most of the existing tiles and avoid the cost and work of removing and rebuilding the entire base.

Based on inputs here I probably point the gap with cement as well. Thanks

Boohoo

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82119511#Comment_82119511

It will all depend on what the base is like when you take them up.

There was a thread on here a few weeks ago where someone asked a similar question but a member posted about using paint on their slabs to brighten them up but you will have to search for that thread.

Not sure if paint would look ok on block paving tiles.

stuart45

Concrete stain would look better than paint.

Boohoo

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82119733#Comment_82119733

I had to gooooooooogle that.

Yes I think I could look better but maybe expensive for why the OP wants to spend

32 square metres of stain but I have no idea of how many coats it would take but it's an option.

stuart45

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/82119799#Comment_82119799

Water based stain is cheaper than acid based and more DIY friendly. Acid based looks really good if done properly as it can have a more marbled finish. It's been popular in the USA for floors and concrete patios for years now and has started to get more popular here now. However, in the USA most homes with solid floors are finished concrete rather than sand/cement screed, and patios are often concrete rather than slabs. As concrete finishing is a 3 year apprenticeship with the union over there it means that in general their concrete work is of a much higher standard than here.

twopenny

I like those tiles. It's going to be tough cleaning up but I'd do it in place and see how well they are laid.

I've used a wire brush on block paving to deal which makes a good start and hasn't done any damage. Once done you can stay on top of it with a cheap weedkiller poured in a small bucket and brushed over when necessary.

The red side bricks don't look good against the grey. Block pavers are relatively cheap for the edging and come in a similar colour and look like the tiles. You can buy those a few at a time to spread the cost if you want.

I'd see what it looks like when it's all tidied. If they are reasonably flat and stable there are quick ways to reset the odd one that's loose without taking them all up.