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Oil woes!
Comments
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Have you had the timing belt changed, you really should not be skimping, are you changing the oil filter too?
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II don't think anybody mentioned rubber.
Based on the two replies to my question though, I guess there are differing opinions as to whether wet belts have meaningful benefits to owners.
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Apart from the problem of randomly failing and destroying the engine, the advantages are a smoother and quieter engine, and better fuel economy.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
What sort of saving on fuel are we talking about? Over, say, a year on average?
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Check here as Peugeot use total oil as standard.
Although getting the PSA oil number helps.
Mine is B71 2312.
Search that on google or eBay and lots of oil brands will appear.
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Maybe 1 to 3%, says AI. That matches what I have read elsewhere, but don't remember where, to cite it.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
So a small saving for the original owner over the first 3 years, then they get rid and a subsequent owner picks up the bill to change it, which exceeds any saving that they could possibly make on fuel (unless petrol goes to £20 a litre…).
Even if it were a one owner car and they pushed it to exactly 60,000 miles before changing it, they wouldn't break even on garage prices.
They should stick to chains, although Vauxhall and BMW have to be commended for their engineering design, getting a chain running in a near perfect environment to wear out so quickly is an achievement!
I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....
(except air quality and Medical Science
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Your car will require a certain type of oil and the specifications are broken down like this.
Grade: This is usually now a Multi Grade Oil for modern cars that covers a varying temperature range like 5W-30. These often overlap. It's not unusual for an engine to be listed as being able to use overlapping grades for different areas (like lower in colder climates). Most modern oils are synthetic or synthetic based these days.
Industry Standard: Different engines require slightly different specs that are made to an industry spec. These industry specs depend on where the car is made as there are European (ACEA) Japanese (JASO) and American (API) specs. Most will be made to cover all though or overlap.
Class: Along with the Industry Standard, there will be a Formula/Class spec for different engines. These are the A, B, C (or E for heavy Duty Diesels) and a number. These indicate sheering properties, Saps, Ash, Sulphur etc and suitability for things like catalytic converters and direct injection.
The above are all set industry standards but the manufacturer will almost certainly specify an oil that meets their own standards and testing. This means there will be a separate code/number on the oil that is recommended for that engine. So oils that carry these numbers/codes will have been tested to meet those manufacturer standards.
Ford use a WSS number, Renault a RN number and Peugeot a B or a Stellantis FPW code.
Your owners handbook should state which oil you need (my Renault book oddly doesn't though) but judging by the earlier link to Opie Oils, it looks like your engine take a 5W-30, ACEA C2 or C3 that meets the Peugeot spec of PSA B71 2290, but don't take my word for it, check.
As a rule of thumb any oil that meet the industry standards should be okay, particularly if an emergency top up is needed (so any 5W-30 ACEA C2 or C3) but as this is a wet belt engine, I would recommend using an oil that also meets the manufacturer spec. It's not going to really cost you more.
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It's the usual "well, of course it's a ridiculous idea, every fule kno rubber in oil is a bad idea" guff.
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I have come across it being called rubber, when using AI
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