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Can you modify the 12v socket in any way to make it ignition-live?
When it comes to electronics I'm pretty much clueless. I did hardwire in my dash cam in to my old car but that was only through copying what I saw on YouTube really. So long as what I'm being shown is solid then if it's just easy enough to copy then I can do that.
My old car was a MK3 Mondeo. As I bought it the 12v socket was permanent live but you could change this to ignition live with the way the fuse box was - just moving the fuse down a slot from what I can remember sorted it.
My existing car is a MK5 Golf. The 12v socket is permanent live which I don't like in a car.
Is there some electronic wizardry to make this ignition live only?
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Comments
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You could fit a relay to only activate the socket when ignition is live. Given you said your are clueless when it comes to electrics I recommend you get a qualified auto electrician to do it. Fires can easily start if you mess with car 12V circuits and you get it wrong.
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On some cars there is a fuse which can be fitted 2 different ways, one makes the 12V socket permanent live and the other, ignition live. I can't remember which cars have this feature.
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You can get adaptors that plug into the 12V socket and have two or more outputs which can be switched on/off as needed.
No wiring skills required.
Things that are different: draw & drawer, brought & bought, loose & lose, dose & does, payed & paid1 -
Are you talking about something like so?
Not the clean minimal look I had in mind but if this is it then I suppose it's an option.
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You'd have to rewire the socket so it's powered from a switched live.
It shouldn't be hard, maybe a little fiddly as you'll need to work up behind the dash.
You need a fuse tap with something like a 10a to 15a fuse. Some wire (12 or 14 AWG should do) and some form of connectors or solder and heat shrink the joints.
Get at the back of the socket and find which of the connector's wires is the live wire with a multimeter and cut it (disconnect the battery before you cut). Don't cut too close to the connector, leave a few inches of wire as a "tail" to the connector to work with later.
Connect/solder the new piece of wire onto the connector's "tail" for the socket that you cut. (tape up the other loom end part of the wire so it can't short on anything with some insulation tape)
Feed the wire under the dash to the fuse board inside the car.
Then connect/solder the new wire from the socket to the fuse tap wire.
Fit the fuse tap in the fuse board on a switch live fuse. Something that only becomes live with the ignition is on like the rear wiper motor. Using a similar 10a to 15a fuse on the fuse board would be best, so check the owners manual.
Now the socket will only be live when the ignition is switched on.
All the bits should be available from the likes of Halfrauds cheap enough. If you are thinking of soldering, best using a butane soldiering iron as you don't need to plug them in when working on a car and they are cheap enough.
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Something simpler - https://www.carbuilder.com/products/lighter-plug-switched-black-red
Things that are different: draw & drawer, brought & bought, loose & lose, dose & does, payed & paid0 -
True, but the original socket will still be live.
Maybe the OP could explain why he "doesn't like" that?
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Fair point.
Things that are different: draw & drawer, brought & bought, loose & lose, dose & does, payed & paid0 -
With a permanently live socket the footwells fill up with electricity overnight. Not an ideal situation. 😂😂😂😂
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Looks better than what I linked.
Might be acceptable for as long as I keep this car. Although who knows how the next car will be set up, in which case Goudy's approach may be the way then.
Really?
You'll be asking for me to explain why I don't drink tea next.
I don't like it because I prefer it to not be that way. Hope that's acceptable?
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