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How to solve this toilet connection

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Comments

  • bjorn_toby_wilde
    bjorn_toby_wilde Posts: 1,162
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    Looking at the picture and comparing against the offset connectors I’ve seen advertised they don’t look quite long enough to reach across that gap.

    If you find they’re not you may well succeed by using an offset into the pipe to bring the outlet up the right level then inserting one of the straight connectors that can be trimmed to the right length.

    I hope that makes sense!

  • Classic90
    Classic90 Posts: 30
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    Yup thats the plan cos its not long enough on its own either offset from toilet pan i to straight pipe into cast iron pipe in wall or straight pipe from an connector into offset that connects into the cast iron pipe.

  • Sapindus
    Sapindus Posts: 834
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    Sorry can't help - still trying to cope with "fed it up my private section and said it's all good".

  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 3,815
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    Can't say I understand how the securing bolt works, but stainless steel, and a seemingly free-flowing design has got to be worth a go.

    If I had rats trying to eat their way towards my dangly bits, I'd fit one of these instantly, and then seek the cause.

    https://ebay.us/m/zal5n7

  • Section62
    Section62 Posts: 11,819
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    The similar ones I've seen the bolts go through the two holes in the top - thread upwards and the nut on the outside. Tightening the bolt with the thread end in contact with the soffit of the pipe causes the sides of the 'ring' to push outwards against the side of the pipe which holds the whole thing in place. But it is more fiddly to do in practice than it sounds - hence "Professional Installation Recommended" - and the pressure from the bolts risks cracking fragile pipes (clay/CI) - hence "Check Pipe Condition".

    The claim "No Moving Parts to Fail" is dubious - there's a moving flap.

    Moreover, the design isn't 'free flowing'. The flap sits in the flow and anything solid can only get past by pushing the flap upwards. On a purely surface water drain this would probably be Ok, but on a combined or foul drain then the solids will only get past if there is a sufficient 'swoosh' of water to get them past. The further you get from the nearest WC connection the weaker the 'swoosh' - so installing one of these some distance from the nearest WC will give a reasonably high chance that something won't get past 'cleanly' and will start a process leading to blockage. Also, if it isn't fitted securely, there's a risk of it coming out of the pipe and blocking the chamber outflow pipe - so the bolts need to apply enough pressure on the pipe to generate a good level of friction and can't be left slack to avoid cracking the pipe.

    Rats are very clever animals. If they want to get somewhere they will find a way… and in my experience a simple lightweight metal flap is unlikely to give them much of a challenge - if it is possible they can somehow lift the flap enough to get past then they will eventually find that way.

    The rat which got to the flexible connector was probably there for one of two reasons - it had got lost and was looking for an escape route, and being able to see light through the flexible connector it was trying to chew its way to safety, or it was starving and looking for a filling meal.

    If I had rats trying to eat their way towards my dangly bits, I'd fit one of these instantly, and then seek the cause.

    If it is any reassurance WIAWSNB, in either of the above cases it is unlikely your dangly bits would be of much interest to a rat.

  • WIAWSNB
    WIAWSNB Posts: 3,815
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    You dirty rat, you. 😶

  • Classic90
    Classic90 Posts: 30
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    Thanks everyone had the plumber round and he is going to fit a rigid solid pipe and use some heat to mould it to the right slope to overcome the height difference. Definitely not getting a ratflap.

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