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Is it possible/cost effective to insulate a prefab garage to use as a workshop?
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It's not mine yet - so I dont have many pictures
I dont thing the bottom bit of the roof is very high - it might only be 6 ft 6 or so
We dont know yet how wet it will get inside, it was dry when we visited but uts been pretty dry recently
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That surprises me. The OP should be able to comment on its state once he buys. Anyhoo, there are ways of DPMing it.
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If that lower horizontal tie provides enough headroom, I think I'd personally look to set the ceiling height to be sitting on that. It should then be a relatively simple matter of setting up a suspended frame and insulated panels to provide the ceiling, and to leave the upper 'loft' section nice and draughty above = dry.
If the ties are a tad too low, not a problem - find the head height you want, and ditto it there; make it a partially-vaulted ceiling, with insulated panels making up the side slopes, but ensuring these are fitted to the inside edges of the rafters, so a good ventilated gap still exists behind the sloping sides.
It will be important for the eaves to be able to vent up one side freely, over the top, and out t'other to make sure the steel A-frames are kept dry. Your call whether to also anti-rust them.
Yes, the lower parts of the frames will be showing, but this isn't a problem - industrial feature...
That's my personal take - it's what I would do. That is all perfectly DIYable, and cheap to do. Forget fitting light panels in the roof - that'll be very costly, very awkward, and to then insulate the full sloping roof very tricky indeed, including shaping it around the new skylights.
Instead either focus on side windows, or fit LED light panels in the ceiling, remotely controllable to provide day, cool and warm lighting. Heck, you can even get ones that will replicate the effects of passing clouds :-)
I don't know the structural makeup of the wall panels, but will suggest there's every chance the centre sections on some can be cut out (angle grinder) with no structural concerns, so that a series of windows can be fitted. You would, of course, need to have this confirmed. Make these windows openers for ventilation.
Then it should be the simplest of tasks to tank/seal all the wall joints tobesure, and bond insulation panels to them. You can fully tank the floor too.
Great project.
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Don't be put off, it's a great project and doing it is a great way of learning and honing DIY skills. Your idea of a smaller room within it might be a good place to start. You could build that and use it whilst you ponder what to do with the rest of it.
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So - the most cost effective (& sensible) way to to about it
Can I put solution in the floor, I know it will mean a step up but I reckon the floor is pretty important
Would it mean using something like this? With insulation on top, then does it have to be concrete on top of that ?
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Do you really need the whole place insulated? I would do the smaller internal room as suggested but leave the rest as it is to avoid heating and condensation issues. You're likely to be active within the large area anyway, and if it's really too cold, one of those infra red heaters like they have in pub outdoor areas could be a solution if you aren't likely to use it much.
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What about the fabric storage? Surely that needs to be in an insulated space?
I know airflow/ventilation is important along with protection against pests but I thought it would get damp in that sort of building
Honest question as I just dont know
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I did at one stage think about putting an empty caravan inside it to work in but I wasn't sure I'd get it through the doors/under the ceiling metal work
Maybe an insulated shed constructed within the building? But light would be an issue i guess
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Or maybe a second hand conservatory (somehow as they are generally missing a wall so might be unstable)
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That's not a bad idea you know, shed or conservatory. And then you have the structure and you can insulate it. If it's a shed you could go for the summer house type which has at least a wall of windows. Some shed suppliers do modular sheds - Power Sheds for example - so that you can design and orientate the layout to suit. I think you'd still want more natural light in there but I reckon the wooden doors will provide a source of that without major work once you can weigh them up properly.
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