We’d like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum.
This is to keep it a safe and useful space for MoneySaving discussions. Threads that are – or become – political in nature may be removed in line with the Forum’s rules. Thank you for your understanding.
New cooker amp
Comments
-
A cooker rated at 47a is well within spec for a 32a circuit using those calculations.
Yes and no.
The person designing the circuit can apply diversity, but it has to be understood that it doesn't mean 47A can be pulled safely from a circuit rated for (say) 32A.
The diversity calculation is related to probability - the likelihood that the theoretical maximum load would be applied for a duration which is enough to cause a problem.
If the circuit has been designed correctly then it will have one or more protective device(s) which will protect the circuit by cutting the power before the cable reaches a problematic temperature. For example, the 32A MCB would trip.
So it needs to be understood that a cooker with a maximum demand of 47A is not 'within spec' in the sense that there are circumstances where the circuit could be overloaded, leading to the inconvenience of the protective device(s) operating and cutting the supply to the cooker. The application of diversity is effectively an assessment of how acceptable that inconvenience might be in any given installation.
It should also be remembered that the 32A MCB doesn't necessarily mean the circuit is capable of safely supplying 32A, let alone 47A. When installing a new higher-load appliance it would be wise to check the cable from the consumer unit to the appliance to make sure it is still suitable for the purpose.
Unless the people delivering the cooker were trained and qualified in electrical installation I'd hope that they would refuse to connect a 47A cooker to a circuit with a 32A MCB - and advise the customer they need to get a qualified electrician in to check the circuit and upgrade it if necessary. Hence the OP's approach was probably the best one.
1 -
While the cooker plate looks ok and maybe rated 45 amp we have no idea if the wire is 6mm (or greater) all the way back to the consumer unit. Further we don't know if there is anything else connected to the circuit.
32A breaker with 6mm² cable is suitable for most home kitchen cooking appliances, providing a maximum load capacity around 32A, while 10mm² cable is recommended for larger, high-power cookers with a 40 amp mcb (or what ever is installed in the CU)
I would either get an electrician or a 32a rated oven. Last thing you want is the cooker tripping when you are cooking the Christmas dinner.
0 -
Wiring a cooker to a cooker point like that is no harder than wiring a plug*. The wires are a bit fatter, but it's still three wires into three screw terminals.
So the people who install them aren't generally "electricians". They are people who have been trained to shove wires into screw terminals.
*but I wonder how many people know how to wire a plug now that all appliances come with one ready fitted.
If it sticks, force it.
If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.0 -
Hi I've had my new AEG eletric cooker installed today and I've just been doing the burn off process for first use before I put any food in it and the first thing I noticed was as soon as I turn it on from the red switch in the wall it makes a noise straight away without me even turning any knobs and turning any ovan on? Is this normal and the red indicator lights keep turning on and off.
Could it be the cooling fan? But I thought that was the fan that moves around in the main oven and that isn't moving unless I turn the knob to put the oven on or am I wrong and that's not the cooling fan?
0 -
Who installed it /wired it up ?
0 -
A trained qualified electrician that I payed for and since leaving it for 2 hours and now turning it back on at the red switch it's not making a noise so I think it was the cooling fan and I had turned it off at the main red switch which turned the cooling fan off and when I turned it back on it must have still been hot and so the cooling fan kicked back on
1 -
That is very possible, provided the oven was used beforehand. Ie, was hot.
In your first description, you simply said the noise appeared as soon as you turned the red switch on - I assumed from that the oven was unused and cold, in which case noise and flashing lights is not good.
Yes, many/most cookers these days have a cooling fan in addition to the oven circulating fan, so yes it'll keep running to cool the oven body after the cooking controls are all off.
Please note that if you have a habit of turning off the main red cooker wall switch as well, then the fan won't be able to do it's job, and you can expect this to cause issues for your oven over time.
So, provided you are now happy the cooker works as it should, then please leave the red switch alone. Turn it off last thing at night if you really wish, or a good while after cooking when the oven is cool, but most folk leave it as it should be - on.
Is there a clock or timer on the cooker?
Anyhoo, make a cuppa and read the instructions - see if it says the indicator lights flash to indicate 'cooling' taking place.
1 -
Yes I didn't really explain fully in my first post , I have cleaned it this morning as it says to clean it before use and to turn it off at the marks so I turned the red switch off again and once cleaned I turned it back on like it says to install manual and no noise so it must have been the cooling fan since the ovan is now cold no more noise and it was making that noise while oven was still hot so definitely was the cooling fan and I'm leaving the red switch alone now I was always taught to turn if off to not waste electricity but apparently that's a load of rubbish as I did some reading on the red switch last night so I'm leaving it on especially as it does have a clock on it and it's a pain keep resetting it and the main ovan doesn't work without a clock time set it says in the manual so yep leaving red switch alone now
1 -
Cool. Literally and meta… 🙂
The flashing lights is interesting, but I guess it'll become clear in use whether it's normal. Ie, when you shut off the oven controls after cooking and the cooling fan remains running, see if the lights flash to indicate this 'cooling' is taking place. It may be to warn you the oven remains hot to the touch, so a neat feature.
0 -
I used it for the first time and hour ago and the noise I was talking about returned after I shut the ovan off at the knob not the red switch I left that on and within 45 mins the noise stopped so it was the cooling fan after all so glad I know now it's all normal. It's my first cooker with a cooling fan so never had that noise before but glad I know what it is now
1
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply
Categories
- All Categories
- 354.6K Banking & Borrowing
- 254.5K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 455.5K Spending & Discounts
- 247.5K Work, Benefits & Business
- 604.4K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 178.6K Life & Family
- 262K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.7K Read-Only Boards
