New cooker amp

HugoandHudsonsmum

Hi

I brought a new cooker weeks ago for my new house first time I've brought a cooker in use to built in oven anyway I ordered one and it's getting delivered and connected on Saturday thing is I've only just found out that you can just buy any cooker you need one that matches the AMP for your circuit so I'm not sure if they'll be compatible or not.

My fuse box says B32 and the new cooker from AEG is 47.00A will this be ok? Don't want them turning up and saying they can't connect it.

sheenas

sounds like you have a 32 amp circuit breaker and and 47 amp cooker. I would get an electrician and sort this out. The question is whether you are attaching to a ring or spur and what gauge wire you have.

UncleTomCobley

Taking this as your house has a dedicated cooker curcuit which, based on the B32 fuse, is rated at 32 amps but the AEG cooker is rated at 47amps. If so, it would seem the curcuit is not suitable for this cooker's requirements.

For what it's worth, I had the same limitation on my cooker curcuit and rather than getting it upgraded I went for another AEG model (CIS6742ECM) which had a scaleback function to ensure it didn't require more than 32 amps.

HugoandHudsonsmum

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81865449#Comment_81865449

Inot been delivered yet so I have time to cancel and when refunded but a different one.

Im in the process of cleaning the kitchen at the moment and was moving in once the cooker had been delivered as the old one that came with the house is broken.

Heres

whats at the back of it

HugoandHudsonsmum

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81865457#Comment_81865457

Thanks yes my fuse box thing has cooker written on one of the switch things and it says B32.

I'll cancel this order and when the refund has gone in I'll reorder for another one that's 32Amp

Robin9

I think you need to get an electrician involved - what you show is not a typical cooker outlet .I don't think the deliverers will be able to connect to it.

Is there a switch on the wall marked cooker ?

Eldi_Dos

If there is going to be any financial loss caused by changing the cooker order consider what that would be compared to getting a electrician to upgrade the circuit before making your decision.

UncleTomCobley

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81865498#Comment_81865498

From the picture, it does look somewhat like a standard outlet plate (akin to this https://www.toolstation.com/crabtree-45a-cooker-outlet-plate/p22152 ) and what I have too for what it's worth.

It will require a suitable cable to screw into its terminals (and to the cooker). If the delivery people offer a connection service for cookers then it would seem likely that they can/are qualified to connect the cooker using this but perhaps worth checking.

HugoandHudsonsmum

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81865498#Comment_81865498

Yes there's a red switch which is for the cooker surely the ones who install the cooker are electricians?

I won't be able to afford a cooker and an eletriction.

HugoandHudsonsmum

https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/comment/81865500#Comment_81865500

I have already cancelled and I won't be able to upgrade the circuit breaker and I'm getting a full refund

SusanPerb

A 32a circuit will be adequate for most domestic cookers, including one with a notional 47a rating.

While the AEG cooker has a rating of 47a, this is an absolute maximum if all the hobs, grill and oven were drawing the maximum possible power at once. That's a situation which is never likely to occur - even if you had everything switched on, the heating elements will all be cycling on and off rather than constantly on.

There is a commonly applied "diversity" formula used by electricians to calculate whether a circuit is suitable for a given cooker, as discussed here: https://engx.theiet.org/f/wiring-and-regulations/28523/applying-diversity

A cooker rated at 47a is well within spec for a 32a circuit using those calculations.

(It may seem odd at first glance, but it's not really any different to how, say, your household sockets are setup. You might have ten 13a sockets on a single circuit - but the circuit won't be built to supply 130a as there's virtually zero likelihood of a householder trying to draw the full load from every socket at once.)