Which car battery booster/jumper?

BlueonBlue

Im not certain....... but your posts sound like you are not using and dont want to use the overide or boost feature on your Noco ?
Whatever you decide to do ....take into account your battery is very likely history so its perfect to practise using your Noco on and/or using the boost feature .

Seems like you got the Noco at a very good price you could likely sell it for more privately showing the buyer how it works !

If you decide on a Gooloo like the GT4000 or GT4000S you cant go wrong the GT6000 is a monster perhaps keep the Noco in the other car ......Id try a new battery soon as a deal comes along as which might surprise you depends on type though .
Do you know the battery type and or uk type code you need as deals and options do come up .

B0bbyEwing

BlueonBlue said:

Im not certain....... but your posts sound like you are not using and dont want to use the overide or boost feature on your Noco ?
Whatever you decide to do ....take into account your battery is very likely history so its perfect to practise using your Noco on and/or using the boost feature .

Seems like you got the Noco at a very good price you could likely sell it for more privately showing the buyer how it works !

If you decide on a Gooloo like the GT4000 or GT4000S you cant go wrong the GT6000 is a monster perhaps keep the Noco in the other car ......Id try a new battery soon as a deal comes along as which might surprise you depends on type though .
Do you know the battery type and or uk type code you need as deals and options do come up .

Correct I'm not using boost. Although not because I don't WANT to. 

Its because the manufacturers response which I think I put in this thread suggests that boost is only required for 2V & under. 

Since my battery was 10.5v it therefore shouldn't require boost.

Without going outside now & looking I know it's a Yuasa of some description with some warranty still left on it & has been tested as perfectly fine with a snap on battery tester by a garage. 

BlueonBlue

Are you concerned that using the Noco boost feature is negative in some way ?

I would just boost it myself to make sure your Noco is all good and be practised at using it in cold weather..... but Im sure your caution is for a reason though.

Reason I mentioned your battery is if it continues to lose charge and drop below normal running amounts then it might eventually start to play up... its generally just a matter of time.... so knowing its exact type details etc helps find a deal on the exact type which I tend to keep a eye on otherwise you get burnt when buying another .

Im kind of in the same boat but cant use a trickle charger as have no access to a a 3 pin power socket with on street parking.
This leaves getting a solar panel as a low battery/low vehical use option but the choice ,details and options with solar  chargers matters even more than when choosing using a jump starter. Hopefully I will figure out which solar panel type and cost is best and actually works .

Check what you paid for your noco as those GB40 are normally around a 100 so if you got it for less thats good news

B0bbyEwing

I'm not cautious. It doesn't bother me. I don't use the boost feature because the manufacturer seemed to be saying that's for like 2v and under. Not 10.5v.

I'd expect them to know their own products so if they say use x when y then that's the reason I do that. 

As for the battery, again I'd have to go have a look but whatever Yuasa battery fits on a MK5 Golf 2.0 tdi. 

Bigwheels1111

Wow, to much overthinking.
Cause could be 101 things.
My Vectra front door lock went funny.
Would leave the internal light on for 20 minutes, never noticed as it stays on for around 30 seconds as you walk off. On an Old Ford Granada it was a wire in the electric door mirror shorting.

Unless you are an electrical expert with lots of time and a draw meter you are not going to find the issue.
There is a basic way to find out, takes forever though.
Every night you pull a fuse from the main board. And see if it starts the next day.
If not put that one back and pull the next inline.
The next day if it starts, bingo.
At some point you will find the parasitic drain and can narrow it down.
That fuse will run 2 or 3 things.

paul_c123

.....Or latch the bonnet, then check voltage drop over each fuse (there are gaps to allow a probe to be pushed on each terminal, from the top, while fitted). 

For measuring the parasitic current draw in general, I have a little tool which goes on the neg terminal, with 2 4mm banana sockets and an isolator switch. You can start and run the car with the switch on (will allow several hundred amps to flow). Then once its not running, plug in an ammeter in parallel with the switch then flick it off (so all current now goes through the meter). Run the wires to somewhere convenient and observe the current draw. It will be several amps when the car is open, but once locked it will go lower, then as the modules go to standby, eventually (after say 20 mins) should reach a low draw of say 20-50mA.

Rinse and repeat splitting the +12V feeds in half, then 1/4 (or 3/4), etc etc