New oven installation

Albermarle

diveunderthebonnet said:

Our Bosch fitted in oven is wired into a 13 amp circuit ,it has a top element as well as a bottom one and a fan ,i think that older ovens that came with an oven and 4 rings drew more electricity so had to be hard wired into a dedicated cooker circuit BUT in doubt get a sparky to check it out and install.

The last time I looked for a cooker, some were fitted with 13 A plugs , some had to be hard wired in.
It was not obvious why the difference .

B0bbyEwing

WIAWSNB said:

B0bbyEwing said:

Thanks for the responses.
Weirdly I noticed the oven door last night seems to be closing flusher than it has done in the 2-3 years since I whipped the door off to clean & replace the rubber seal. 
I'm just guessing now but maybe the new seal beefed it out too much & over the couple years that has passed, it has flatted down somewhat allowing the door to now close more flush. 
Or maybe it's something else entirely. 
I just know that with the wait time on it heating up I'll often change meals to something else as I simply can't be bothered to wait the heat up time plus the cook time as it can be an hour gone easily vs last night - put the Tefal in to cook from frozen mode, slap the butcher shop bought burgers on, 15mins or so later it's good to go, job done. 
I've even been round the corner to the chippy before to buy a bag of chips to go with something rather than wait the heat up time for chips 😂

The new oven seal should have worked properly from the moment it was fitted - it does not need to settle in.

Did you fully remove the door? Does it have quick-release hinges? If so, possibly it wasn't refitted quite correctly - is it smooth in operation, with the 'springy' points occurring in the expected positions? 

An oven taking a long time to heat points to a few things. Yes, if the door isn't sealing fully, then that will likely affect the heating time. But, tbh, a fan oven should cope with this - after all, folk open the doors regularly to check and baste and turn the items, and it's back up to temp in a very short time. So, I doubt it's down to a poor seal.

If it's a 'fan' oven, with a single surrounding element, then these either work or they blow - there is really no 'half-way' with this (this would be exceptional). So, replacing the element won't help.

It could be due to a faulty thermostat, and - if so - it ain't worth fixing on a cheap ol' oven (no offence :-) )

If, however, the oven is truly 'convection' - ie it has static oven-heating elements in the floor and grill - then, yes, one of these having failed will give you precisely the symptoms you have. 

 

There's a fan at the back & elements at the top.

For the door, it seemed like it operated OK, there was just a bit of a gap at the top which doesn't seem as bad now. I'm unsure how this compared to before the removal (yes door fully off) as I thought it'd just go back on easy enough. 

MyRealNameToo

Albermarle said:

diveunderthebonnet said:

Our Bosch fitted in oven is wired into a 13 amp circuit ,it has a top element as well as a bottom one and a fan ,i think that older ovens that came with an oven and 4 rings drew more electricity so had to be hard wired into a dedicated cooker circuit BUT in doubt get a sparky to check it out and install.

The last time I looked for a cooker, some were fitted with 13 A plugs , some had to be hard wired in.
It was not obvious why the difference .

It will be the draw they are taking, if its dual fuel and only one oven then its basically an oven thats being plugged in and most can cope on 13A as long as they arent pyrolytic cleaning or such. 

If it's an induction home rather than gas on the cooker then the hob alone would be under powered on a 13A supply let alone with an oven also drawing power. 

WIAWSNB

B0bbyEwing said:

There's a fan at the back & elements at the top.

For the door, it seemed like it operated OK, there was just a bit of a gap at the top which doesn't seem as bad now. I'm unsure how this compared to before the removal (yes door fully off) as I thought it'd just go back on easy enough. 

Are there wee clips on the hinges that you retract once the door is back on? 

Some 'multifunction' ovens will allow all sorts of combinations. If one such combo includes the use of two elements at the same time - say fan+grill, or top+bottom - then it will almost certainly draw in excess of 13A, so would need hard-wiring.

Albermarle

MyRealNameToo said:

Albermarle said:

diveunderthebonnet said:

Our Bosch fitted in oven is wired into a 13 amp circuit ,it has a top element as well as a bottom one and a fan ,i think that older ovens that came with an oven and 4 rings drew more electricity so had to be hard wired into a dedicated cooker circuit BUT in doubt get a sparky to check it out and install.

The last time I looked for a cooker, some were fitted with 13 A plugs , some had to be hard wired in.
It was not obvious why the difference .

It will be the draw they are taking, if its dual fuel and only one oven then its basically an oven thats being plugged in and most can cope on 13A as long as they arent pyrolytic cleaning or such. 

If it's an induction home rather than gas on the cooker then the hob alone would be under powered on a 13A supply let alone with an oven also drawing power. 

You see normal fan ovens with both hard wiring and plugs. 

Our Bosch one has settings where two heating functions can be used at the same time and has pyrolytic cleaning, but still plugs into a normal socket.
A similar Neff or Samsung one does not , although they say they need to be connected to a 13A spur, not any higher rating.
No idea why.

jennifernil

Before choosing a new oven, I suggest you unscrew the 4-6 screws that hold the old one in place and ease it out to check how it is powered.

If just via a socket then you may well be limited to one that can also be plugged in, if hard wired then you may have more choice.   Also check whether the plug, if that is what is used, needs clearance behind the oven back, and what clearance is needed above for the gas hob, then check the fitting dimensions of your chosen model.

Take some photos and post on here if you are not sure.

Then you could book installation along with the new one.  Depending on what you want to spend, John Lewis often have offers on installation, but do shop around.    If planning on staying long in the house, probably worth investing in a reliable brand.

WIAWSNB

Albermarle said:

You see normal fan ovens with both hard wiring and plugs. 

Our Bosch one has settings where two heating functions can be used at the same time and has pyrolytic cleaning, but still plugs into a normal socket.
A similar Neff or Samsung one does not , although they say they need to be connected to a 13A spur, not any higher rating.
No idea why.

Presumably tobesure tobesure.

Hard-wired is always better. 

13A plugtops, in my experience, always become 'warm' when used for prolonged periods with draws of ~2.5kW. Even 'warm' is not good. 

Albermarle

WIAWSNB said:

Albermarle said:

You see normal fan ovens with both hard wiring and plugs. 

Our Bosch one has settings where two heating functions can be used at the same time and has pyrolytic cleaning, but still plugs into a normal socket.
A similar Neff or Samsung one does not , although they say they need to be connected to a 13A spur, not any higher rating.
No idea why.

Presumably tobesure tobesure.

Hard-wired is always better. 

13A plugtops, in my experience, always become 'warm' when used for prolonged periods with draws of ~2.5kW. Even 'warm' is not good. 

The 2.5Kw draw is only going to last about 15 mins. Once the oven warms up, I think they only use around 1KW, so hopefully the plug will not get too hot. Ours does not.