New oven installation

Veteransaver

Lorian said:

If it's just slow to heat up now and didn't used to be it could just be a sign the oven element needs replacing.

Normally the elements just blow in my experience, they don't lose power.
Slow heating could indicate broken seals or door not closing properly 
Op, do you have a smart meter with in home display, can you see how much the consumption jumps by when you turn the oven on? It should jump by about 2.2kW if the element is working properly.

Lorian

I've replaced at least two that have slowed down, presumably to fail soon if not noticed.

B0bbyEwing

To answer some questions while I'm at work - 

Haven't chosen new oven yet. Wanted to look at this cabling first to see what the deal is. 

Hob is gas.

Door could be a possibility. I took it off a couple years ago to clean everything up & renew the seal and my wife is adamant it no longer closes flush when she says it used to beforehand. Try as I may I just can't get it to close any flusher. 

Rodders53

Find out exactly what that plug feeds by unplugging it.  Possibly just the ignition for the gas hob just seen in corner of that picture?
Check if the oven is only switched off via the red switch.

Next: identify the make and model of existing oven... they often have the info along with serial number just inside a door...  It will help identify what rating (Amps) it is and if it could be fed from that plug.

Personally I'd NOT like to assume the oven is a "plug in" style job. 
Equally likely/more likely to be hard wired to the Cooker Red switch.

Ovens often have multiple elements that are used... Top (grill perhaps), bottom, circular at rear around the fan... If one or more has failed then it could give the slow heat up time issue and often an economic diy fix.

diveunderthebonnet

Our Bosch fitted in oven is wired into a 13 amp circuit ,it has a top element as well as a bottom one and a fan ,i think that older ovens that came with an oven and 4 rings drew more electricity so had to be hard wired into a dedicated cooker circuit BUT in doubt get a sparky to check it out and install.

B0bbyEwing

I'll be honest with you guys, I may be a DIY dummy but I'm even worse when it comes to talking about anything electrical so you're going to lose me instantly on that one.

Anyway, fancy this...

Rodders53 said:

Find out exactly what that plug feeds by unplugging it.  Possibly just the ignition for the gas hob just seen in corner of that picture?
Check if the oven is only switched off via the red switch.

10 years in this house & I never really paid any mind to the photo on page 1. Stuff just worked. 
Then when we started looking at the potential of a new oven I YouTube'd fitting them & saw in videos they had a plug on the rear (for some reason I just assumed they'd be 'wired in' or something.
When I saw that in the videos & then the plug on the wall as you see on page 1 I just assumed that plug was for the oven.

Turns out it's not.

That plug as Rodders here says is for the hob ignition.

The oven is controlled on that red flicker switch.

What all that means for whatever is going on behind that oven, I've no idea.

As for make & model:

Logik LBFANX12

We had a guy out a couple years ago to replace I think it was the thermostat at the time as the light was just never going off. He said unless you're dealing with 'names' like Samsung, Bosch etc then it can be quite tricky getting parts for these things. How true that is, you'll know better than me.

WIAWSNB

That's a good outcome, BE, and almost certainly means you aren't restricted in the oven you go for.
Behind the oven is likely a 'cooker wall plate outlet' where the oven cable is 'wired' in, using three screw-down terminals. 
Possibly there's a 13a socket there instead, supplied by that red switch, but I really hope not.
Anyhoo, both are very competent DIYable, but many suppliers will do the job for a small sum over the purchase price.
(Also check your 'fuse box' - see which one supplies that red switch.)

stuart45

Logik spares are available, although if it's an old one and you can't DIY it you might find it more cost effective to stick a new one in. They are one of the cheaper models in Currys.

B0bbyEwing

Thanks for the responses.

Weirdly I noticed the oven door last night seems to be closing flusher than it has done in the 2-3 years since I whipped the door off to clean & replace the rubber seal. 

I'm just guessing now but maybe the new seal beefed it out too much & over the couple years that has passed, it has flatted down somewhat allowing the door to now close more flush. 

Or maybe it's something else entirely. 

I just know that with the wait time on it heating up I'll often change meals to something else as I simply can't be bothered to wait the heat up time plus the cook time as it can be an hour gone easily vs last night - put the Tefal in to cook from frozen mode, slap the butcher shop bought burgers on, 15mins or so later it's good to go, job done. 

I've even been round the corner to the chippy before to buy a bag of chips to go with something rather than wait the heat up time for chips 😂

WIAWSNB

B0bbyEwing said:

Thanks for the responses.
Weirdly I noticed the oven door last night seems to be closing flusher than it has done in the 2-3 years since I whipped the door off to clean & replace the rubber seal. 
I'm just guessing now but maybe the new seal beefed it out too much & over the couple years that has passed, it has flatted down somewhat allowing the door to now close more flush. 
Or maybe it's something else entirely. 
I just know that with the wait time on it heating up I'll often change meals to something else as I simply can't be bothered to wait the heat up time plus the cook time as it can be an hour gone easily vs last night - put the Tefal in to cook from frozen mode, slap the butcher shop bought burgers on, 15mins or so later it's good to go, job done. 
I've even been round the corner to the chippy before to buy a bag of chips to go with something rather than wait the heat up time for chips 😂

The new oven seal should have worked properly from the moment it was fitted - it does not need to settle in.

Did you fully remove the door? Does it have quick-release hinges? If so, possibly it wasn't refitted quite correctly - is it smooth in operation, with the 'springy' points occurring in the expected positions? 

An oven taking a long time to heat points to a few things. Yes, if the door isn't sealing fully, then that will likely affect the heating time. But, tbh, a fan oven should cope with this - after all, folk open the doors regularly to check and baste and turn the items, and it's back up to temp in a very short time. So, I doubt it's down to a poor seal.

If it's a 'fan' oven, with a single surrounding element, then these either work or they blow - there is really no 'half-way' with this (this would be exceptional). So, replacing the element won't help.

It could be due to a faulty thermostat, and - if so - it ain't worth fixing on a cheap ol' oven (no offence :-) )

If, however, the oven is truly 'convection' - ie it has static oven-heating elements in the floor and grill - then, yes, one of these having failed will give you precisely the symptoms you have.