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Garage door installation poorly done? Opinions please.
Comments
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I'm so confused now. 🤦♀️ Ok, when I raise the door halfway up, the slats are now level with the topbox. But there is a difference of around 2.5cm between the bottom of the door and the floor. So, this means the floor is not level?! I downloaded a spirit level app, checked the top box, the slats and the floor and the floor is showing as not level.
So this means we just have to accept that it will look wonky when it's shut? Is it likely to cause a problem down the line if one side is coming off the roller a few cms lower than the other, or it just evens out? When the door is shut, the slats don't look gappier on one side. 🤷♀️
What I don't get is why we didn't have the same problem with our old door - it looked straight all around, mind you the old roof may have made it look harder to see if it wasn't level. 🤷♀️ Pics below.
I've contacted the installer who is going to call me on Monday, as the gap at the front still needs sorting. I'll see what he says.
Thanks for all your comments, they have been very helpful. 😊
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To confirm, you are saying that the slats are straight and parallel to the top canopy as it unfurls, and only goes 'squint' when the door fully contacts the floor?I'm not sure how accurate an App will be, but they can surely demonstrate to you the true levels when they come out to sort the other 'trim' gap.0
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WIAWSNB said:To confirm, you are saying that the slats are straight and parallel to the top canopy as it unfurls, and only goes 'squint' when the door fully contacts the floor?1
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booksandbikes said:WIAWSNB said:To confirm, you are saying that the slats are straight and parallel to the top canopy as it unfurls, and only goes 'squint' when the door fully contacts the floor?
Get yourself some clear plastic tubing, from aquarium or wine making shop,place this across doorway and partially up the side walls. Fill it with water so that it is part way up tube at wall.Then accurately measure head of water from floor on either side. Plumbline would be handy to check alignment of tube.1 -
The internal cover looks a bit bowed to me, it might be the light from the camera. That might account for the finger gap in the middle. The older one looks a better quality to me, the cover looks better. Mind you every new version of everything I have to buy looks shoddier than the earlier model - showing my age.Getting that addressed might make a difference over all. Could they fit a gradiated bar or a brush bar at the bottom to accomodate the slope on the floor?0
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Personally I'd be concerned about (i) what it looks like from outside and (ii) whether it works correctly. Without meaning any disrespect to your garage (mine is no better), it's not the sort of space where aesthetics are a big consideration!
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It’ll depend how how ‘forcefully’ the door is hitting the floor. If it stops just as the first slat hits the floor, then only the first few slats will be wonky.
If it closes more ‘forcefully’ then that wonkiness will transfer all the way up the slats up to the top.
The closing stop can be adjusted as necessary. You want it to close enough to take the slack out of the slats, so they can’t be forced upwards - which is probably how it’s been setup, but you get the wonkiness. There’s probably a sweet spot where you can get it looking better, without introducing enough slack to affect security. Have a chat with the Installer and see if they’ll pop back and adjust.0 -
booksandbikes said:WIAWSNB said:To confirm, you are saying that the slats are straight and parallel to the top canopy as it unfurls, and only goes 'squint' when the door fully contacts the floor?
So, the bottom slat makes contact with the presumed higher end of the floor, and that movement is transferred all the way up each slat until it finds a place that can absorb it, which is where the slats roll over above.
If so, the best solution will presumably be to level the floor along where the door lands - run a tapered ledge along there - or add an absorbing bump stop that'll squish accordingly, rubber or brush.0
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