Outside tap needs attention

JohnB47

My outside tap has been difficult to turn off fully for months now and it's started leaking through the gland now too, so it needs sorted. It's been there more than 24 years. I'm just looking for advice before I tackle it. I've done loads of DIY, including plumbing and have a good range of tools, so I'm reasonably competent.

To be honest I would rather just replace the hole thing but it's been fitted recessed into the wall (and without any support) and it would be tricky to remove old and replace with new with so little clearance. The tap is fitted to 15mm pipe that goes through the cavity wall and joins a mains pipe wending it's way around the kitchen hidden behind floor units - no chance of access from inside.

Also, this tap is fitted before the stopcock in the kitchen, so any work done would need the main stopcock at the water meter out on the pavement to be turned off. This means that it would be a big problem if anything goes pear shaped because all water to the house would be off until it's fixed. That's why I'm a bit apprehensive.

Anyway, the photos attached show the tap and a spare, unused valve I happen to have. Is it possible that the washer in the valve would suit the tap? If not, any idea what size and type washer I should buy in advance of starting the work - fibre? I might also need to replace the washer that fits between the tap assembly and the body.

I have PTFE tape and I believe that will do for packing the gland.

Thanks.

bjorn_toby_wilde

I’d swap that if it were mine, if only to stop it being such a PITA next time it leaks.

If you have to turn off the water at the mains, take the opportunity to put an isolator on it and a newer tap, fixed to the wall.

Once you have the mains off, install the isolator then you can get the water back on to the rest of the house whilst you take your time to fit the tap.

JohnB47

Hmmmm. But how/where to fit an isolator when you can't get access to the pipework?

I would rather remove a couple of bricks outside than disturb the kitchen inside. I have spare bricks of the same type and the mortar is nice and crumbly.

bjorn_toby_wilde

JohnB47 said:

Hmmmm. But how/where to fit an isolator when you can't get access to the pipework?

I would rather remove a couple of bricks outside than disturb the kitchen inside. I have spare bricks of the same type and the mortar is nice and crumbly.

So you can’t see or access where it’s teed off the pipework before the stoptap at all?

JohnB47

"So you can’t see or access where it’s teed off the pipework before the stoptap at all?"

Nope - all hidden away behind kitchen floor units. All you can see is what's in the photos. A real bodge job.

born_again

JohnB47 said:

Hmmmm. But how/where to fit an isolator when you can't get access to the pipework?

I would rather remove a couple of bricks outside than disturb the kitchen inside. I have spare bricks of the same type and the mortar is nice and crumbly.

Just turn main stop !!!!!! off. If not then get some pipe freeze up the hole in bricks.
If you want to add a isolator. Then add some pipework with a isolator & move tap a bit.

bjorn_toby_wilde

JohnB47 said:

"So you can’t see or access where it’s teed off the pipework before the stoptap at all?"

Nope - all hidden away behind kitchen floor units. All you can see is what's in the photos. A real bodge job.

OK. That’s not easy to replace then. Shame it wasn’t made more accessible when the kitchen was fitted.

If you decide to repair it as you mentioned then the washer from the valve you showed should fit as it looks the same size, but a new washer would cost pence from a plumbers merchants and probably be a better solution.

You could pack around the gland with ptfe tape but it’s quite thin stuff so you’ll need a lot. When I last did it I used hemp twine and plumbers mait. There are quite a few options for other things you can use like petroleum jelly if you google it.

WIAWSNB

I wouldn't try dismantling that tap in situ, as it's likely to be very tight, and you don't want to accidentally apply force to the fitting as it disappears through that wall.
So, I'd waterpump-plier the fitting that's in the wall in order to hold it securely from turning, and unscrew the whole tap. You can then dismantle it at leisure - except your water supply will be off...
Yes, the washer in the other tap will almost certainly fit, but why not buy a new one anyway? Also get a tub/tube of silicone grease - really useful stuff.
Yes, pack under the gland nut with oodles of PTFE tape, and a good smear of silicone grease.
To make it silky, undo the handle, clean the shaft, and unscrew it all from the inside. Clean if needed, and a good coat of silicone - super-smooth tap.
Assemble with silicone on all threads, and a good wrap of PTFE over the main replacing thread. 
The only way to fit an isolator is to elbow that outlet up, down, or sideways, add an isolator - one with a non-return valve - and mount a proper wall bracket. 
Fill in around the pipe hole.

JohnB47

Thanks guys. I'd really like to remove the whole tap and work on it in a vice but my problem is there doesn't seem to be enough grip to be had where it enters the brick wall. I'll have a test though with the tools to hand.

Are the washers available to fit the body assembly? - see attached image.

mta999

If it were me I think I will get a chisel and chip away at the brick until I had enough room to put a mole grip on the bit coming out of the wall

This would enable me to rotate the tap and unscrew it. I would then replace it by screwing in a new tap

Lorian

Agree with Wia, My two are identical and both 25 years old. Once in a while I just pack the gland with PTFE that stops it leaking and makes it easy to turn off. Takes about 2 minutes just undoing the very small nut by the handle, packing and doing back up
 All very serviceable. Turn the water off while you do it. (With experience there is another quicker way to do it)

No point replacing it, not very MSE.

Stick some insulation over it in winter