2012 Vauxhall Meriva Not Starting - RAC Can’t Help

paul_c123

If enough of the posters above guess at different random things, and start firing the parts cannon too, one of them will get it right.

Google "FIXDIT Diagnostic Process Poster" 

Goudy

I let it settle for a min and tried to restart, it cranked once, and then nothing. Every attempt after than it didn’t even crank, but warning lights no-longer on.

By the time he was finished it was cranking every time (even now several hours later) but it’s just not firing or getting past the initial crank.

Now there might be something in the fact it wouldn't crank over for some time, like several hours, (or until it cooled down)

Just wondering, could this have ran hot and nipped up?

prowla

My last Vauxhall's sensors were the most unreliable part on the car.

Ditzy_Mitzy

Any update? 

An identical thing happened to a car I had many years ago.  In that case, the fuel pump was the culprit - it gave up the ghost whilst approaching a roundabout, which resulted in the engine stopping and refusing to restart.  A new fuel pump was fitted and the car restored to running condition.  It was an old car, however, and didn't have any electronics.

SH88

No updates yet unfortunately as it’s still sitting on the drive… having to wait until Pay day to get it collected and investigated.

It’s still cranking but zero revs.
No warning lights. No codes.

I plugged in the reader and went to data stream and it shows very minor revs on the reader, but nothing in the dash.

Too suggestions here seem to be Crank Sensor or Fuel Pump….

It’s worth noting I just checked again this morning and it’s still the same.
I can also hear the fuel pump whir (I think) for a few seconds at the rear when I turn the car on but not crank. So I guess the pump is working?

Mildly_Miffed

SH88 said:

I can also hear the fuel pump whir (I think) for a few seconds at the rear when I turn the car on but not crank. So I guess the pump is working?

Do you have pressure in the rail?
Crack one of the connectors and check.

SH88

facade said:

I'll take a guess that it is the crank sensor (or the wiring to it).

When it fails the ecu just thinks that the engine has stalled (because it can't detect that it is going round) and doesn't set any codes, meanwhile all the warning lights come on as if you had turned the ignition on but not started the car.

The rev counter will stay obstinately at zero whilst cranking too, rather than tickle up a couple of notches.

Live OBD data will show zero engine speed all the time.

Goudy said:

I wonder if the timing chain has jumped.
These Opel/VX Family O engines are prone to chain, chain tensioner and chain guide wear.

So a little update…
I decided to dig as much as possible with Google and started checking fuses (I should have done this sooner).

The Engine Control Module terminal 87 (number 21) was blown.

I changed it and it blew again.

I changed it again and it didn’t blow when the engine turned on, but DID blow when cranking.

Whats more is, on the second change, the car actually started, ran for 5 seconds, rumbled and died. Presumably when the fuse blew.

Maybe a competent is faulty or shorting?

paul_c123

Sounds like damage to a wiring loom, what's probably happened is it has become damaged and one or several wires are shorting to an earth, causing the fuse to blow. It would also explain why there are no codes logged in the ECU. Dashboard loses comms with the ECU, shows EML, but no codes stored because the whole thing has gone off.

Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, then it is still possible to trace wiring looms etc and visually inspect for damage. But with a wiring diagram it is much easier.

Goudy

Car electronics aren't my strongest points but you are right, fuse 21 is for terminal 87 which is the main switched power relay output to car.

When you turn the key and switch the ignition on, that powers a relay that makes this terminal 87 live.

There are all sorts of things hanging off this terminal 87, like the fuel pump, ecu, starter motor and so on.

The relay it's self would probably be a complicated relay system, as there will be a inhibited switch built in there as well, this will keep things like the radio and windows live for a short period of time after the ignition is turned off, yet still kill off all the fuel pump etc.

There is obviously a short on the circuit somewhere, but I have no idea where to start, not unless you have done or had some electrical work lately.
From experience, that's the first place to look.

Other than that, you need an auto electrician.

SH88

paul_c123 said:

Sounds like damage to a wiring loom, what's probably happened is it has become damaged and one or several wires are shorting to an earth, causing the fuse to blow. It would also explain why there are no codes logged in the ECU. Dashboard loses comms with the ECU, shows EML, but no codes stored because the whole thing has gone off.

Do you have a wiring diagram? If not, then it is still possible to trace wiring looms etc and visually inspect for damage. But with a wiring diagram it is much easier.

Goudy said:

Car electronics aren't my strongest points but you are right, fuse 21 is for terminal 87 which is the main switched power relay output to car.

When you turn the key and switch the ignition on, that powers a relay that makes this terminal 87 live.

There are all sorts of things hanging off this terminal 87, like the fuel pump, ecu, starter motor and so on.

The relay it's self would probably be a complicated relay system, as there will be a inhibited switch built in there as well, this will keep things like the radio and windows live for a short period of time after the ignition is turned off, yet still kill off all the fuel pump etc.

There is obviously a short on the circuit somewhere, but I have no idea where to start, not unless you have done or had some electrical work lately.
From experience, that's the first place to look.

Other than that, you need an auto electrician.

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate it.

I’ve been investigating more (trial and error random stuff).

If I unplug the Loom that connects to the Coil Pack, it doesn’t blow the fuse.
When I reconnect the Loom, and crank, it blows the fuse…

So I’m assuming the issue is with the coil pack rather than the wiring maybe?
But I’m now getting out of my depth with checking things.