Pothole broke suspension spring

danrv
danrv Posts: 1,575 Forumite
Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
edited 26 April at 5:29PM in Motoring
Hi
I hit a pothole yesterday on a road that was otherwise in good condition. Hyundai i30 Comfort.
There were areas of kerb jutting out as a traffic calming measure. As I pulled back in, the nearside front wheel went over the hole.
Managed to continue with just a scraping noise which I think was the tyre in contact with the plastic mudguard. 
Satnav warning a few seconds before but too late. It didn't seem all that deep but there was a fair bit of shock.

This often results in a puncture or broken alloy rim but here, the suspension strut spring broke. Looking at it, it seems a bit corroded at the break point as the metal is rust colour.

I'm not sure if it's a DIY job. I think the car needs to be up on a lift so that the strut can be lowered. 
I'm assuming it's just the spring that needs renewing. Not sure if any compensation is possible with things like this.
Any ideas appreciated.


Comments

  • TadleyBaggie
    TadleyBaggie Posts: 6,536 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    That spring looks quite corroded, suspect it would have failed quite soon anyway. Always replace the other side if one side fails. 
  • Mildly_Miffed
    Mildly_Miffed Posts: 1,323 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Third Anniversary Name Dropper
    All that fracture face that was brown was already broken, with water in contact with it promoting rust.

    Only the bit that's bright has been freshly broken from this pothole. That spring was firmly pre-knackered, and could have gone at any time at all. Even just the change in weight of a passenger getting in could have been the final straw.
  • Bigwheels1111
    Bigwheels1111 Posts: 2,960 Forumite
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    One, It's not a diy job. Unless you know what you are doing and have spring compressors.I owned a 52 plate vectra hatchback and a 56 plate vectra estate. Both went through springs every 2 years.


    You can replace one, but they should be replaced in pairs. Get the tracking done afterward if its the front springs.
    Ring around and get a few prices.
    Look up the parts price first to get an idea how much labor they want on top.
    Start here with your reg.
    Then euro car parts, ebay etc. KYB Kilen are good brands.


    I'm lucky my mechanic lets me bring my own part, most don't.
    But he likes Mr Cash.

    I would think around £250 / £300 for both.
    Depends on spring cost.

  • facade
    facade Posts: 7,487 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    You are the luckiest lucky person in the whole of Lucky Land!

    That spring broke the locating ring off, escaped the locating pan and shot down the shock absorber.

    Normally they come out sideways and rip the side out of the tyre if they escape from the spring pan. 

    Some cars like my old Vectra just snap the end half coil off and the spring stays in the fully enclosed pan so you don't even notice until MOT time or you do any work on the brakes. The car is about an inch lower on that side but with the state of the "roads" nowadays it rarely stands on a smooth level surface for you to notice!
    I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....

    (except air quality and Medical Science ;))
  • paul_c123
    paul_c123 Posts: 279 Forumite
    Third Anniversary 100 Posts
    What kind of car is it, and do you have more pictures of the base of the strut where it connects to the knuckle?

    Some spring replacements are DIY, some really help having a 2 post lift available.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,575 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    facade said:

    That spring broke the locating ring off, escaped the locating pan and shot down the shock absorber.

    Normally they come out sideways and rip the side out of the tyre if they escape from the spring pan. 

    Thanks. I couldn't quite work out what had happened. The broken bit was sitting in the spring pan.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,575 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    paul_c123 said:
    What kind of car is it, and do you have more pictures of the base of the strut where it connects to the knuckle?

    Some spring replacements are DIY, some really help having a 2 post lift available.
    Hyundai i30 Comfort estate. I've put the wheel back on now. 
    I think I'll get it booked in at the local garage.
  • facade
    facade Posts: 7,487 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    edited 27 April at 2:57PM
    Don't drive it except carefully to the garage, and have your recovery membership and mobile 'phone on you.

    I can't see anything preventing that spring from moving further down every time you go over a bump or turn the steering, and it may yet go into the tyre, or let the car down so much that it won't drive.
    I want to go back to The Olden Days, when every single thing that I can think of was better.....

    (except air quality and Medical Science ;))
  • Goudy
    Goudy Posts: 2,027 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    I wouldn't be happy driving that anywhere in that condition.
    I can do springs myself, but they are tricky and you need decent spring compressors.
    (I have a scar on my face still from using cheap spring compressors 20 years ago)

    What you could do if you are handy and have some tools is remove the strut yourself and ask/pay a local garage to swap the springs over on the loose strut.

    Jack the body up and support it.
    There are only two bolts holding the bottom of the strut leg to the hub carrier.
    One nut to the ARB droplink.
    And three nuts holding the top of the strut to the inner wing under the bonnet.

    Before you start, clean off all the nuts and bolts under the wheel arch with a wire brush and soak them well in penetrating oil. 

    If you haven't done ARB droplinks before, they can be tricky when they have been on a while.
    There will either be a flat on the back/blindside of the balljoint shaft or a allen key hole in the threaded end to hold the balljoint shaft and stop it spinning while you undo the nut.
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