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dual fuel cooker installation - gaining an understanding before calling in the trades people

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  • bikerhiker
    bikerhiker Posts: 2 Newbie
    First Post
    ...

    There appears to be 6mm wiring going from the garage into the kitchen, though I maybe wrong! 

    ...

    I assume the electrician will need to install a hardwire port behind where the cooker will sit, what sort of problems could they encounter? can they install a hardwire port with a standard socket, to give options, would this means extra wiring? 


    Check the CU. Is the suspected 6mm cable connected to to a 32A MCB? How is it marked?
    If it's really 6mm2, then, most likely, what is needed is only replacing the existing socket with a cooker plate (for hard-wiring).
    Why do you need an extra standard socket? Cooker isolating switches often have one: httpsmediascrewfixcomisimageae23556392_A1fxSharpenwid257hei257dpron




    thank you for your response.  

    Consumer Unit RCD Protected Circuits, under the cooker label it states the following:
    Hanger 15 A / 240 V
    for BS 1361 fuse
    L 115 00 

    I am assuming the above fuse needs to be upgraded?  

    The isolation switch above the counter has a standard plug as well, I was thinking more about behind the cooker given my whole query comes from realising that the perspective new cooker needs to be hardwired, logic would be to prevent this scenario happening in the future have both options available.   Though i do appreciate that increases the work required and opens up further questions. 

  • bikerhiker
    bikerhiker Posts: 2 Newbie
    First Post
    Grenage said:
    Something worth considering as you already have a gas supply - electricity is about 4 times as much as gas, so running costs will increase. 

    It's a MSE forum, after all.
    yes, I had thought about that for a long time.  it was actually late 2019 to early 2020 when I picked out that cooker and was looking to purchase then until other things took priority.  

    Defiantly encourage people to think before they purchase 
  • Ectophile
    Ectophile Posts: 7,990 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    ...

    There appears to be 6mm wiring going from the garage into the kitchen, though I maybe wrong! 

    ...

    I assume the electrician will need to install a hardwire port behind where the cooker will sit, what sort of problems could they encounter? can they install a hardwire port with a standard socket, to give options, would this means extra wiring? 


    Check the CU. Is the suspected 6mm cable connected to to a 32A MCB? How is it marked?
    If it's really 6mm2, then, most likely, what is needed is only replacing the existing socket with a cooker plate (for hard-wiring).
    Why do you need an extra standard socket? Cooker isolating switches often have one: httpsmediascrewfixcomisimageae23556392_A1fxSharpenwid257hei257dpron




    thank you for your response.  

    Consumer Unit RCD Protected Circuits, under the cooker label it states the following:
    Hanger 15 A / 240 V
    for BS 1361 fuse
    L 115 00 

    I am assuming the above fuse needs to be upgraded?  

    The isolation switch above the counter has a standard plug as well, I was thinking more about behind the cooker given my whole query comes from realising that the perspective new cooker needs to be hardwired, logic would be to prevent this scenario happening in the future have both options available.   Though i do appreciate that increases the work required and opens up further questions. 


    It would need replacing with a 32A breaker.  If it's 4mm² cable, then it could be rated between 26 and 37A, depending on how the cable is run*.  6mm² cable is 32 to 47A, so not a problem there.

    Buried in a wall allows a lot less heat to be dissipated than if it's surface clipped to a wall.
    If it sticks, force it.
    If it breaks, well it wasn't working right anyway.
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