Remote Control Plug for Fridge Freezer

GDB2222

I think the op is concerned about the risk of electric shock when cleaning the fridge with it plugged in. It’s probably a small risk, but it’s bothering the OP. 

One solution is to wear rubber gloves! 

QrizB

knightstyle said:

In our previous house we solved this with an extension lead, putting the end on top of the F/F and plugging it in there, easy to reach and unplug when we needed to.

This is more-or-less what we've done, too.

In our case we've got separate fridge and freezer, but only one socket. So we're using a shortish 2-way extension to bring the power out to the side of the appliances, then they're both plugged in where we can get to them.

ThisIsWeird

Or, the OP could use a remote control adaptor.

It should do the trick, and be no more likely to burst into flames than any other appliance in the house, and a lot less likely than most.

Ideally, yes, doglegging a loop into the adjacent unit and fitting an isolating switch in there would be best.

But, will Rusty's idea work? Almost certainly 'yes', with no adverse issues at all. It'll be handling a whopping ~150W.

Whether there's room for it is another matter...

Section62

ThisIsWeird said:

Or, the OP could use a remote control adaptor.

It should do the trick, and be no more likely to burst into flames than any other appliance in the house, and a lot less likely than most.

Electronics, especially those made to a budget, do have a higher risk of failure than electrical devices.  It is very unlikely a mechanical switch on a socket will burst into flames unless severely overloaded, but the capacitors/resistors/semiconductors in an electronic switch can decide to self-immolate even in no-load situations.

But more to the point, it is about access to the item if something does go wrong.  Other appliances in the house are normally put in places they can be observed and/or isolated if something goes wrong.  Having an electronic switch 'hidden' behind a built-in fridge/freezer means some of the signs of failure (browning of the plastic/smoke) won't necessarily be picked up on before disaster strikes.

Yes, the power could be disconnected at the consumer unit in an emergency, but how many people drill their family members on where the consumer unit is, which breakers control which circuits, and that knocking the relevant circuit out as an immediate response to smoke/flame would be a good idea?  (and turning off the main switch for speed isn't such a good idea if the house needs to be evacuated first).

ThisIsWeird said:

It'll be handling a whopping ~150W.

Actual current will depend on the make and model, but that looks rather low for when the compressor motor starts up.

ThisIsWeird

Section62 said:

Electronics, especially those made to a budget, do have a higher risk of failure than electrical devices.  It is very unlikely a mechanical switch on a socket will burst into flames unless severely overloaded, but the capacitors/resistors/semiconductors in an electronic switch can decide to self-immolate even in no-load situations.

But more to the point, it is about access to the item if something does go wrong.  Other appliances in the house are normally put in places they can be observed and/or isolated if something goes wrong.  Having an electronic switch 'hidden' behind a built-in fridge/freezer means some of the signs of failure (browning of the plastic/smoke) won't necessarily be picked up on before disaster strikes.

Yes, the power could be disconnected at the consumer unit in an emergency, but how many people drill their family members on where the consumer unit is, which breakers control which circuits, and that knocking the relevant circuit out as an immediate response to smoke/flame would be a good idea?  (and turning off the main switch for speed isn't such a good idea if the house needs to be evacuated first).

ThisIsWeird said:

It'll be handling a whopping ~150W.

Actual current will depend on the make and model, but that looks rather low for when the compressor motor starts up.

Indeedy. But presumptuous.

Oh lawdie, where do I start...

Yes, to hard-wire is always best. But, the OP asked about their solution, which is cheap and DIYable. I gave the correct answer.

Where did I suggest the OP use a 'budget' product?

Yes, electronic switches are less reliable than mechanical ones - well, d'uh. But when was the last time a gently-loaded remote or Smart switch went 'bang' on you? Or anyone else? And yet they are festooooned all around many houses these days.

PING! BANG! POP! Not.

150W was caveated with a '~'. So, what actual figures are we talking about? When all such adaptors will be certified to 13A-plus?

Yes, if it goes wrong, the OP will need to get folk out to extract the FF. The chances of a fault are almost infinitesimally unlikely, and the alternative is a wee rewiring; that's what the OP was clearly trying to avoid.

What would I do? I'd rewire - but then I can DIY this. Is the OP's idea nuts? No - end of. It is an alternative.

And we are three pages in...

Section62

ThisIsWeird said:

Section62 said:

Electronics, especially those made to a budget, do have a higher risk of failure than electrical devices.  It is very unlikely a mechanical switch on a socket will burst into flames unless severely overloaded, but the capacitors/resistors/semiconductors in an electronic switch can decide to self-immolate even in no-load situations.

But more to the point, it is about access to the item if something does go wrong.  Other appliances in the house are normally put in places they can be observed and/or isolated if something goes wrong.  Having an electronic switch 'hidden' behind a built-in fridge/freezer means some of the signs of failure (browning of the plastic/smoke) won't necessarily be picked up on before disaster strikes.

Yes, the power could be disconnected at the consumer unit in an emergency, but how many people drill their family members on where the consumer unit is, which breakers control which circuits, and that knocking the relevant circuit out as an immediate response to smoke/flame would be a good idea?  (and turning off the main switch for speed isn't such a good idea if the house needs to be evacuated first).

ThisIsWeird said:

It'll be handling a whopping ~150W.

Actual current will depend on the make and model, but that looks rather low for when the compressor motor starts up.

Indeedy. But presumptuous.

Oh lawdie, where do I start...

Yes, to hard-wire is always best. But, the OP asked about their solution, which is cheap and DIYable. I gave the correct answer.

Where did I suggest the OP use a 'budget' product?

Yes, electronic switches are less reliable than mechanical ones - well, d'uh. But when was the last time a gently-loaded remote or Smart switch went 'bang' on you? Or anyone else? And yet they are festooooned all around many houses these days.

PING! BANG! POP! Not.

150W was caveated with a '~'. So, what actual figures are we talking about? When all such adaptors will be certified to 13A-plus?

Yes, if it goes wrong, the OP will need to get folk out to extract the FF. The chances of a fault are almost infinitesimally unlikely, and the alternative is a wee rewiring; that's what the OP was clearly trying to avoid.

What would I do? I'd rewire - but then I can DIY this. Is the OP's idea nuts? No - end of. It is an alternative.

And we are three pages in...

Count how many people have contributed to the thread and said this was a good idea.  Then count how many have pointed out the potential risks of fire/failure.

Then note the OP is having an electrician come in anyway, and the parts to do the job properly would cost about a tenth what decent quality remote switch would cost.  Then what looks like the best approach?

ThisIsWeird

Section62 said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Section62 said:

Electronics, especially those made to a budget, do have a higher risk of failure than electrical devices.  It is very unlikely a mechanical switch on a socket will burst into flames unless severely overloaded, but the capacitors/resistors/semiconductors in an electronic switch can decide to self-immolate even in no-load situations.

But more to the point, it is about access to the item if something does go wrong.  Other appliances in the house are normally put in places they can be observed and/or isolated if something goes wrong.  Having an electronic switch 'hidden' behind a built-in fridge/freezer means some of the signs of failure (browning of the plastic/smoke) won't necessarily be picked up on before disaster strikes.

Yes, the power could be disconnected at the consumer unit in an emergency, but how many people drill their family members on where the consumer unit is, which breakers control which circuits, and that knocking the relevant circuit out as an immediate response to smoke/flame would be a good idea?  (and turning off the main switch for speed isn't such a good idea if the house needs to be evacuated first).

ThisIsWeird said:

It'll be handling a whopping ~150W.

Actual current will depend on the make and model, but that looks rather low for when the compressor motor starts up.

Indeedy. But presumptuous.

Oh lawdie, where do I start...

Yes, to hard-wire is always best. But, the OP asked about their solution, which is cheap and DIYable. I gave the correct answer.

Where did I suggest the OP use a 'budget' product?

Yes, electronic switches are less reliable than mechanical ones - well, d'uh. But when was the last time a gently-loaded remote or Smart switch went 'bang' on you? Or anyone else? And yet they are festooooned all around many houses these days.

PING! BANG! POP! Not.

150W was caveated with a '~'. So, what actual figures are we talking about? When all such adaptors will be certified to 13A-plus?

Yes, if it goes wrong, the OP will need to get folk out to extract the FF. The chances of a fault are almost infinitesimally unlikely, and the alternative is a wee rewiring; that's what the OP was clearly trying to avoid.

What would I do? I'd rewire - but then I can DIY this. Is the OP's idea nuts? No - end of. It is an alternative.

And we are three pages in...

Count how many people have contributed to the thread and said this was a good idea.  Then count how many have pointed out the potential risks of fire/failure.

Then note the OP is having an electrician come in anyway, and the parts to do the job properly would cost about a tenth what decent quality remote switch would cost.  Then what looks like the best approach?

I've made it clear what I think the best approach is. *sigh*
I've also answered the OP's question, without getting sanctie about perceived risks. 
Yes, like many threads on here, it goes to faaaar more pages than are justified, but - of course - that counts for now't on its own, yeah?

Scrounger

I have Tapo plugs on my 2 fridges and 1 freezer, not because I can't access the wall sockets but in order to save money.

On the Octopus Agile electricity tariff they are all scheduled to switch off at 18.15 (the final 45 minutes of peak evening rate) and back on at 19.00 when the rate drops back down.  I doubt it is saves much money in reality but I like the idea in principle.

No problems so far (operational since April 24).


Scrounger