Condensing Boiler temprature

RazBurley

FreeBear said:

RazBurley said:

FreeBear said:

That is working out to 7.9kW per hour - What was the outside temperature, and what are you heating the house to ?

For comparison, my heating had been on for just under 2 hours and warmed the place up to 19°C whist it has been -4°C to 0°C outside (used 11kWh of gas with a flow temp of 42°C to 56°C). But sun was shining, so I benefited from quite a bit of solar gain, plus I lit the stove around 16:00.

Outside temp was 0 i think and i was heating house to 18 degree.

Yours is doing good. What kind of house you live in? Our house is 2bed mid tarrace and i think built around 1955. Our house takes long to get warm probably loosing heat. I don't know how to check heat loss and make the house more energy efficient. Our epc rating is C which i believe is wrong. It must be D or over. Our boiler was made in march 2010 i think. 

Late 1920s bay fronted 3 bed semi (fairly typical inter-war build). Ground floor is cavity construction and the upper half solid brick (~240mm thick) and rendered. Loft has 300-400mm of insulation, and about half of the solid walls have ~75mm of Celotex on the inside (as each room gets renovated, the walls are insulated). New uPVC windows & doors all round (apart from the kitchen). The sealed units in the old windows had blown, didn't close properly, and were rotting away in places (mid 1970s DG replacements). Didn't help that they were badly fitted and there had always been cold draughts coming in around the sides. Spent quite a bit of money over the last few years... Still struggling to heat the (small) kitchen despite having ~3kW of radiator in there....

Low cost improvements that you could make is put more loft insulation down - Current recommendation is 270-300mm. Go round each room and plug all the cold draughts (incense sticks can help to track them down). If you have timber floors on the ground floor, there is often a gap at the bottom of the skirting. Plugging this gap can make a surprising difference. If/when you replace carpets downstairs, put down a layer of 5mm woodfibre underlay (the stuff sold for laminate flooring). Whilst it won't provide much in the way of insulation, it will stop draughts coming up between floorboards (or if you have concrete, cut heat loss a little). Plugging any unused fireplaces with a Chimney Sheep (other products available) could cut heat losses by up to 2kW.

Fitting a programmable thermostat that allows for different temperatures throughout the day/week could potentially save you up to 15% (in reality, more like 5%). If you can find one that talks eBUS (fairly sure that the 2010 EcoTec supports it, but do check first), you can make better use of the modulation and maybe even do priority domestic hot water - PDHW automatically increases flow temperature when heating the tank, and drops back down for just heating. Might be worth having a chat with Vaillant and see what they recommend.

As for heat loss - I use the Stelrad online calculator - https://www.stelrad.com/basic-heat-loss-calculator/ - Good enough to see if your radiators are big enough. For a more detailed analysis, Heat Punk could be used, but it is probably over the top unless you are contemplating installing a heat pump.

Hi  thanks for your detailed answer. I will look into the things you mentioned. Thank you

RazBurley

Hi, 

Can someone plz advice.

See attached pics. Pic 1 is thermostat to control the temp its wireless and pic 2 is the unit by the hot water cylinder. Both i think has tobe connected for heating to work. I want to change it as its button don't work properly sometime. Boths are honeywell. Is it possible to just change thermostat without changing the unit by the cylinder?

Also i have noticed that even after getting to desired temp on the thermostat (pic 1) boiler still keeps running when it should shut and turn back on when temp drop below desirsed?

Can anyone please help?

Thanks

QrizB

I'm not a Honeywell guru but I think you will have to change both parts.

This does give you the excuse to change to eg. Hive or Nest, or something else, if you wanted to.

espresso

RazBurley said:

Hi, 

Can someone plz advice.

See attached pics. Pic 1 is thermostat to control the temp its wireless and pic 2 is the unit by the hot water cylinder. Both i think has tobe connected for heating to work. I want to change it as its button don't work properly sometime. Boths are honeywell. Is it possible to just change thermostat without changing the unit by the cylinder?

Also i have noticed that even after getting to desired temp on the thermostat (pic 1) boiler still keeps running when it should shut and turn back on when temp drop below desirsed?

Can anyone please help?

Thanks

Have you changed the batteries in the thermostat?

NB. You should check your post is correct after posting - no pic 1 of the actual thermostat.

RazBurley

QrizB said:

I'm not a Honeywell guru but I think you will have to change both parts.

This does give you the excuse to change to eg. Hive or Nest, or something else, if you wanted to.

Hi, yes will consider that depends on how much it will cost though 😢

RazBurley

espresso said:

RazBurley said:

Hi, 

Can someone plz advice.

See attached pics. Pic 1 is thermostat to control the temp its wireless and pic 2 is the unit by the hot water cylinder. Both i think has tobe connected for heating to work. I want to change it as its button don't work properly sometime. Boths are honeywell. Is it possible to just change thermostat without changing the unit by the cylinder?

Also i have noticed that even after getting to desired temp on the thermostat (pic 1) boiler still keeps running when it should shut and turn back on when temp drop below desirsed?

Can anyone please help?

Thanks

Have you changed the batteries in the thermostat?

NB. You should check your post is correct after posting - no pic 1 of the actual thermostat.

Hi, yes had changed batteries and tried to reconnect the thermostat with the unit by hot tank. I think heating only turns on when both are connected. But when few time there was a power cut heating was not working and i just had to press a button on the unit by tank then it satrted working.

I have uploaded the pic of thermostat also attaching to this as well. Thank you

FreeBear

FreeBear said: For comparison, my heating had been on for just under 2 hours and warmed the place up to 19°C whist it has been -4°C to 0°C outside (used 11kWh of gas with a flow temp of 42°C to 56°C). But sun was shining, so I benefited from quite a bit of solar gain, plus I lit the stove around 16:00.

Yesterday (13th), it was 2-5°C outside and sunny for most of the day. Used just 13kWh of gas.

Today, 4-7°C, but no sun. Got through 27kWh to maintain the same indoor temperature of 18.5°C.

Orientation of the house, size of South facing windows, and a bit of sunshine can all combine to make a big difference.

Gerry1

FreeBear said:

FreeBear said: For comparison, my heating had been on for just under 2 hours and warmed the place up to 19°C whist it has been -4°C to 0°C outside (used 11kWh of gas with a flow temp of 42°C to 56°C). But sun was shining, so I benefited from quite a bit of solar gain, plus I lit the stove around 16:00.

Yesterday (13th), it was 2-5°C outside and sunny for most of the day. Used just 13kW of gas.

Today, 4-7°C, but no sun. Got through 27kW to maintain the same indoor temperature of 18.5°C.

Yesterday (13th), it was 2-5°C outside and sunny for most of the day. Used just 13kWh of gas. Today, 4-7°C, but no sun. Got through 27kWh to maintain the same indoor temperature of 18.5°C.

bob2302

RazBurley said:

Also i have noticed that even after getting to desired temp on the thermostat (pic 1) boiler still keeps running when it should shut and turn back on when temp drop below desirsed?

Unless you mean the temperature rises far to high, it's meant to do that. 

RazBurley

bob2302 said:

RazBurley said:

Also i have noticed that even after getting to desired temp on the thermostat (pic 1) boiler still keeps running when it should shut and turn back on when temp drop below desirsed?

Unless you mean the temperature rises far to high, it's meant to do that. 

Yes when the temp reaches the desired degree  the heating supposed to stop until temp falls and then heating should turn back on automatically?