Condensing Boiler temprature

RazBurley

Hi Everyone,

Thanks all for your input.

We lowered the boier temp to 60 degree last night and after running the heating for 3 hours it used 2 cubic meter of gas (22.22kwh) cost around £1.40 ( previuosley heating on for 4 hours at max temp of 68 degree, gas used 4 cubic meter ( 44.42 kwh, cost around £2.82)

Looks like it makes bit of diffrence. We are thinking to put temp to 58 degree and run the heating for longer for couple of more days to check. And if by doing that we are able to keep the house warm for more longer and cost the same as running boiler on full temp for less time then i think its good.

Thank you

RazBurley

One more question please.

We are thinking  to put 1 more radiator in sitting room and 2 small radiators in colder part of house where we don't have any radiator. Do you guys think our boiler vaillant eco tech plus 418 is able to handle 3 more rads? At the moment we have 6 rads.

Thanks

FreeBear

RazBurley said: We are thinking  to put 1 more radiator in sitting room and 2 small radiators in colder part of house where we don't have any radiator. Do you guys think our boiler vaillant eco tech plus 418 is able to handle 3 more rads? At the moment we have 6 rads.

I think the Vaillant Ecotec 418 is rated at 18kW. Unless you have humongous radiators, it will have plenty of capacity for more.
Had 8 radiators of various sizes on a 12kW Baxi, and they worked just fine. It isn't the number of radiators, but their power output. So total up the kW ratings for all the existing radiators and then add on the extra for the new radiators.

QrizB

RazBurley said:

Lorian said:

RazBurley said:

Lorian said:

OP has a cylinder so it's S plan or Y plan. So he needs to keep his flow set high enough to heat his water.  He might want to heat his water above 60c if he is concerned about legionella. Still a little scope to come down from 68c though, but probably wants to reduce cylinder thermostat a bit too depending what it's on.

55c is probably a leap too far 

Remember reducing the flow will slow down how fast your house warms up in the morning so you may need it to come on earlier 

Hi,

Our boiler has seprate temp control for hot water which we have put on max  as we only do it twice a day. 

Its just about the heating which we want to run as efficiently as possible to keep the house warm and the bill down as well.

Thanks

Hot water priority system then maybe. Can you post a picture of the pipe work by the tank and the control you use to switch the water on?

Hi, i have attached the pics of boiler control and pipe work around hot water cyclinder.

That looks like a three-way valve (my system has one too) so Y-plan?

RazBurley

QrizB said:

RazBurley said:

Lorian said:

RazBurley said:

Lorian said:

OP has a cylinder so it's S plan or Y plan. So he needs to keep his flow set high enough to heat his water.  He might want to heat his water above 60c if he is concerned about legionella. Still a little scope to come down from 68c though, but probably wants to reduce cylinder thermostat a bit too depending what it's on.

55c is probably a leap too far 

Remember reducing the flow will slow down how fast your house warms up in the morning so you may need it to come on earlier 

Hi,

Our boiler has seprate temp control for hot water which we have put on max  as we only do it twice a day. 

Its just about the heating which we want to run as efficiently as possible to keep the house warm and the bill down as well.

Thanks

Hot water priority system then maybe. Can you post a picture of the pipe work by the tank and the control you use to switch the water on?

Hi, i have attached the pics of boiler control and pipe work around hot water cyclinder.

That looks like a three-way valve (my system has one too) so Y-plan?

Hi, sorry what is a Y Plan?

Northern_Wanderer

RazBurley said:

Hi, i have attached the pics of boiler control and pipe work around hot water cyclinder.

I notice that none of your pipes have any lagging.......little cost to install but helps with gas costs.

QrizB

RazBurley said:

QrizB said:

That looks like a three-way valve (my system has one too) so Y-plan?

Hi, sorry what is a Y Plan?

One of the common ways of plumbing a central heating system. Cheaper to install (only one motorised valve) but slightly less reliable (three-port valves are a terrible bit of design IMO).

See:

https://www.warmzilla.co.uk/blog/s-and-y-plans-explained

RazBurley

Northern_Wanderer said:

RazBurley said:

Hi, i have attached the pics of boiler control and pipe work around hot water cyclinder.

I notice that none of your pipes have any lagging.......little cost to install but helps with gas costs.

Yes you are right. Need to do that thank you

RazBurley

QrizB said:

RazBurley said:

QrizB said:

That looks like a three-way valve (my system has one too) so Y-plan?

Hi, sorry what is a Y Plan?

One of the common ways of plumbing a central heating system. Cheaper to install (only one motorised valve) but slightly less reliable (three-port valves are a terrible bit of design IMO).

See:

https://www.warmzilla.co.uk/blog/s-and-y-plans-explained

I will look in to this. Thank you

Lorian

That's Y plan. I look after three properties with Y plan. Always worth having a spare synchron motor in stock 

Are you saying you switch that switch on with a red light to heat the water? If so you are using very expensive electric immersion to heat your water. 

Somewhere you will have a programmer box with a display on it. That's what you need to be using to heat the water automatically using the gas boiler. Post a photo of it maybe.