Cooker extraction hood cover

Mum has a gas cooker with an extraction fan/hood. The extraction bit has a vertical front cover which matches the rest of the cupboard doors in the kitchen, and when you pull the bottom of the cover outwards, the fan operates with a light.  The cover is made out of a chipboard-y type material with a moulded plastic cover on.

The cover has come unstuck from the base material. I'd like to reattach it, safely, bearing in mind that it is over a gas hob.

Are there any types of glue, sellotape, blu-tack etc. that would be advisable to use or avoid (I'm thinking potentially about the possible risk of flammable fumes from glue in particular, as well as effectiveness).

Comments

  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
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    Photo, please, so we understand what, exactly, you wish to fix.
    By 'cover', for example, do you mean the thin decorative plastic film that gives the door its appearance? If so, does it refit perfectly on to the door, so glue would actually work?
  • Yorkie1
    Yorkie1 Posts: 11,893 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    Photo, please, so we understand what, exactly, you wish to fix. Two photos below - one of the cooker hood, and one of the decorative cover which has come off

    By 'cover', for example, do you mean the thin decorative plastic film that gives the door its appearance? If so, does it refit perfectly on to the door, so glue would actually work? Yes; in one corner the plastic film has cracked a little and lost a tiny bit of the plastic (less than 1" square - as you can see in the 2nd photo), but otherwise the cover does refit OK.
    Thanks for your reply. Comments in line above.

    When I was very small, so the family story goes, Dad was using araldite or something similar to fix perhaps a worktop. Something with fumes anyway. It hadn't yet dried, or the fumes hadn't yet dispersed, and when the gas cooker next to it was lit, the fumes ignited, causing a sheet of flame ... !! As you can tell, this risk has never left me :0








  • Mr.Generous
    Mr.Generous Posts: 3,912 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    Wow, the whole foil wrap from the hood fascia has come away. A water based no nails would probably do it, but never going to be a good job. I'd say a new intergrated hood fascia from B&Q / Wickes / Wren etc would be the best bet, otherwise take the door off, try a spray adhesive and then some weight on it while it sets. The fascia door wont get that hot - it has to be a minimum height above the hob to be safe - 75 cm I believe. 
    Mr Generous - Landlord for more than 10 years. Generous? - Possibly but sarcastic more likely.
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 7,935 Forumite
    1,000 Posts Second Anniversary Name Dropper
    edited 26 December 2024 at 7:42PM
    Wow! As Mr G says! I hope my veneers come off that easily when I come to paint my doors :smiley:
    Your dad would most likely have used EvoStik adhesive, which is highly flammable - it dries by releasing a solvent. It's what's known as a 'contact' adhesive, so you coat both sides, allow it to pretty-much dry, and then bring the surfaces together - it bonds on 'contact' so you cannot move it if you get it wrong.
    That's still your best bet, but you'd have to position the cover accurately first time, which is scary. Yes, spray contact adhesive is still highly flammable (ie, 'evostik' in an aerosol so it's easy to apply), but it'll be fine if left overnight to release all its solvent first. But, it'll still require accuracy in positioning.
    I'm trying to think of a 'thin' adhesive that can be applied that'll allow a close fit but that also allows positioning, but cannot think of one.
    Actually, I do recall a vinyl floor tile adhesive from yonks ago that was 'contact' and solvent-free. It was like a thick cream, and could be spread really easily - little smell, and you brushed it on both surfaces, allowed them to dry, and then brought them together. Something like that may be your best bet, but with a slight modification - I'd apply a quick, thin coat on both surfaces, and then bring it together right away, so it allows a slight movement before it dries - eg the moulding-shapes to be pushed and pressed neatly into place. Then place objects on top to keep it in place whilst the adhesive fully dries. This would require the door to be removed and laid flat.
    This EVOIMP250, for example, is 'low odour' and 'fast-drying', so I'm guessing it's solvent-free. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166355246958? But it would need using in a different way as described above - apply and bring together quickly, and then hold until dry.
    Or, get a colour match, and roller-paint it in a satin paint designed for such hard-wearing use.







  • Yorkie1
    Yorkie1 Posts: 11,893 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Combo Breaker
    edited 28 December 2024 at 3:09PM
    Many thanks to you both. 

    I'll look out an appropriate type of glue (T*sco's didn't stock any, unsurprisingly!) for my next visit down, and then work out how to get the door cover off (I haven't investigated this yet). Realistically, Mum isn't likely to be living in this house for more than say 5 years (she's 82 now) so it doesn't need to be an uber-long fix.
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