How does ali-framed sliding door sit on a hardwood cill?

ThisIsWeird

This is in reference to this thread: https://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/discussion/6559900/flat-sale-condensation#latest where the poster has water ingress along the bottom (assumed to be water ingress, and not just down to condensation).

1992 flat with a sliding aluminium door leading to a Juliet balcony. Carpet all along the inside is heavily stained from water, and is damp - currently being dried out.

Ali door frame sits in a timber surround, including a hardwood cill - all looks to be in somewhat poor order, as unlikely to have been treated or painted for a long time, possibly never.

Anyhoo, OP recommended to get a knowledgeable person out to clean it up, remove all old frame sealant (between ali and timber, and timber and brick), treat the timber, and reseal. 

Another poster pointed to the sealant used between the bottom ali frame and the timber cill along the outside, and I'm aware that often this gap should be left clear for drainage, as ali and PVC frames often have their drains holes on their undersides, and this should drain on to the sloping part of the cill and away - if blocked, this could be forced indoors instead.

Anyone know if this is likely to be the case in a 1990's ali-in-timber-frame sliding door like this? I cannot see any drain slots in the actual front face of the bottom ali section.

Ta.

teaselMay

I removed one last year, probably same sort of age, it had slightly leaked for a while but primary issue was increasingly hardwork to open and close despite copious lubrication where it shouldn't need any. On removing the aluminium frame I discovered the hardwood sill was rotten to the extent there was a void under the middle third of it. The other 3 sides were so intact that I've reused the wood elsewhere. There were indeed drain holes in the bottom, draining directly onto the wood which had been sealed. We were very lucky to acquire next door's just removed French doors and a much less painful shoulder! 

ThisIsWeird

teaselMay said:

I removed one last year, probably same sort of age, it had slightly leaked for a while but primary issue was increasingly hardwork to open and close despite copious lubrication where it shouldn't need any. On removing the aluminium frame I discovered the hardwood sill was rotten to the extent there was a void under the middle third of it. The other 3 sides were so intact that I've reused the wood elsewhere. There were indeed drain holes in the bottom, draining directly onto the wood which had been sealed. We were very lucky to acquire next door's just removed French doors and a much less painful shoulder! 

That is really useful info - thank you.

If the OP's door is the same on that other thread, then sealing off along that outer gap would be counter-productive - and it looks as tho' it has been.

AliceBanned

teaselMay said:

I removed one last year, probably same sort of age, it had slightly leaked for a while but primary issue was increasingly hardwork to open and close despite copious lubrication where it shouldn't need any. On removing the aluminium frame I discovered the hardwood sill was rotten to the extent there was a void under the middle third of it. The other 3 sides were so intact that I've reused the wood elsewhere. There were indeed drain holes in the bottom, draining directly onto the wood which had been sealed. We were very lucky to acquire next door's just removed French doors and a much less painful shoulder! 

Ah so if this were the case for mine I would need to replace the sill, or entire frame and doors? Thanks

ThisIsWeird

AliceBanned said:

teaselMay said:

I removed one last year, probably same sort of age, it had slightly leaked for a while but primary issue was increasingly hardwork to open and close despite copious lubrication where it shouldn't need any. On removing the aluminium frame I discovered the hardwood sill was rotten to the extent there was a void under the middle third of it. The other 3 sides were so intact that I've reused the wood elsewhere. There were indeed drain holes in the bottom, draining directly onto the wood which had been sealed. We were very lucky to acquire next door's just removed French doors and a much less painful shoulder! 

Ah so if this were the case for mine I would need to replace the sill, or entire frame and doors? Thanks

If rotten, yes. Or allow the cost of replacement by the new owner. Bear in mind that a new door would not have a silly timber frame and cill.

The real reason I made this point, tho', is to try and determine whether the water ingress issue you have is being caused by incorrectly-applied sealant along that edge. I don't know, but I'd hope the fellow that comes out is knowledgable enough to.

AliceBanned

I have spoken to a downstairs neighbour today who said he occasionally gets a damp carpet by the door. He has a gadget like an air purifier or fan and said this stops the cold water from pouring down the window. He said the room gets quite warm - unlike mine it only has a small exterior wall and also is not on top floor.

AliceBanned

I have a loft above mine so if anything it might need improved loft insulation! The insulation in there is 30 years old. My neighbour said this top floor flat was remarkably colder than others on middle floors, when previous residents lived there they noted it. They were friends with neighbours below and often in each others’ flats.

FreeBear

AliceBanned said:

I have a loft above mine so if anything it might need improved loft insulation! The insulation in there is 30 years old.

In 1990, the recommended thickness of loft insulation was 150mm, and increased in 1995 to 200mm. But some cheapskates were bunging in 100mm or even 75mm. Current recommendation is 270-300mm.

For what the stuff costs, I'd suggest getting a few rolls of 200mm and topping up what ever you've got up there. If you currently have 150mm, another 200mm will get you close. With 200mm, another 200mm on top will future proof the loft for a few more years.