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Problems with hammer drill chucks.

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Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.
Well the chuck seized after a few uses so I took it back and got a B&D one. Now three weeks later that chuck has seized as well.
That one will now be going back with the masonry drill is jammed in it.

Comments

  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.

    If you still have the old drill, try replacing the brushes - A cheap fix that may cure the sparking.
    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • knightstyle
    knightstyle Posts: 7,228 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Yes, I have done that some time ago but now the commutator is really pitted, it is at least 30 years old.
  • Lorian
    Lorian Posts: 6,254 Forumite
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    Never heard of the name. When you say it seizes describe what you mean? The ring won't rotate?
  • Keep_pedalling
    Keep_pedalling Posts: 20,879 Forumite
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    Sounds like the drills you have purchased are not up to the task you are using them for. For concrete you need something that takes SDS+ bits.
  • FreeBear
    FreeBear Posts: 18,259 Forumite
    Tenth Anniversary 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    Yes, I have done that some time ago but now the commutator is really pitted, it is at least 30 years old.
    If you know someone with a lathe, pop the rotor between centres and give the commutator a light skim. Undercut the copper sections lightly afterwards, and it should be as good as new when reassembled.

    Her courage will change the world.

    Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.
  • It’s good practice to put a small amount of grease in the hole when new and then periodically depending on use, also wipe the end of the bit before using.
    Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'
  • knightstyle
    knightstyle Posts: 7,228 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    The B&D drill was only used four times before the chuck seized to drill into walls above windows to put up curtains.  Fortunately I got a refund without difficulty.
    I have now bought a more expensive battery drill from Wickes, hope that is a bit more durable.
  • GDB2222
    GDB2222 Posts: 26,258 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    The B&D drill was only used four times before the chuck seized to drill into walls above windows to put up curtains.  Fortunately I got a refund without difficulty.
    I have now bought a more expensive battery drill from Wickes, hope that is a bit more durable.
    Wall above window? So, there’s some sort of lintel there. Quite possibly very hard concrete. 

    You really need an SDS drill. 
    No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?
  • abssorb
    abssorb Posts: 131 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 100 Posts Combo Breaker
    Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.
    Well the chuck seized after a few uses so I took it back and got a B&D one. Now three weeks later that chuck has seized as well.
    That one will now be going back with the masonry drill is jammed in it.
    Just in case you're not already doing this - a good habit to develop is when inserting drill bits into the chuck, to not bottom them out. If the drill shank bottoms out, pull it forward 2mm before tightening. This is because the chuck will pull the drill inward as it tightens, and it needs somewhere to go.

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