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Problems with hammer drill chucks.
knightstyle
Posts: 7,354 Forumite
Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.
Well the chuck seized after a few uses so I took it back and got a B&D one. Now three weeks later that chuck has seized as well.
That one will now be going back with the masonry drill is jammed in it.
Well the chuck seized after a few uses so I took it back and got a B&D one. Now three weeks later that chuck has seized as well.
That one will now be going back with the masonry drill is jammed in it.
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Comments
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knightstyle said:Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.
If you still have the old drill, try replacing the brushes - A cheap fix that may cure the sparking.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
Yes, I have done that some time ago but now the commutator is really pitted, it is at least 30 years old.0
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Never heard of the name. When you say it seizes describe what you mean? The ring won't rotate?0
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Sounds like the drills you have purchased are not up to the task you are using them for. For concrete you need something that takes SDS+ bits.0
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If you know someone with a lathe, pop the rotor between centres and give the commutator a light skim. Undercut the copper sections lightly afterwards, and it should be as good as new when reassembled.knightstyle said:Yes, I have done that some time ago but now the commutator is really pitted, it is at least 30 years old.
Any language construct that forces such insanity in this case should be abandoned without regrets. –
Erik Aronesty, 2014
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.0 -
It’s good practice to put a small amount of grease in the hole when new and then periodically depending on use, also wipe the end of the bit before using.Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'0
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The B&D drill was only used four times before the chuck seized to drill into walls above windows to put up curtains. Fortunately I got a refund without difficulty.
I have now bought a more expensive battery drill from Wickes, hope that is a bit more durable.0 -
Wall above window? So, there’s some sort of lintel there. Quite possibly very hard concrete.knightstyle said:The B&D drill was only used four times before the chuck seized to drill into walls above windows to put up curtains. Fortunately I got a refund without difficulty.
I have now bought a more expensive battery drill from Wickes, hope that is a bit more durable.You really need an SDS drill.No reliance should be placed on the above! Absolutely none, do you hear?0 -
Just in case you're not already doing this - a good habit to develop is when inserting drill bits into the chuck, to not bottom them out. If the drill shank bottoms out, pull it forward 2mm before tightening. This is because the chuck will pull the drill inward as it tightens, and it needs somewhere to go.knightstyle said:Recently moved and my old Skill drill was sparking so I bought a new mains hammer drill, Guild brand, cheap but I only had a few jobs to do.
Well the chuck seized after a few uses so I took it back and got a B&D one. Now three weeks later that chuck has seized as well.
That one will now be going back with the masonry drill is jammed in it.
0
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