Advice needed on wooden shed size

Valerie2023

I was looking online at wooden sheds and I saw this about timber sheds: A single-skinned building can only reliably stay dry to a certain point, and that’s why our Shed range ends at a certain point  – 16’ x 10’. We believe that, when Sheds go larger than this, they begin to be susceptible to leaking...

 Is this something I should be worried about? I was thinking of having an 8ft X 20ft pressure treated wooden shed on an existing  concrete base, but now I'm not so sure. (The firm that says this is was based in Scotland where it is maybe a lot wetter than in England.)

flashg67

I'm not a shed expert, but have owned a few, (current one is 12x8).If it's built properly and shiplap/tongue & groove then I'm struggling to see why size makes a difference unless it is related to wood movement in different temperatures or something? There are plenty selling huge sheds/garages/workshops so I'd be surprised if there was a problem

ThisIsWeird

That's a new one to me, too. They must have a reason for saying this, but no idea what it is.
Link to the company so we can check their construction?

TELLIT01

I would look for local shed companies where you can see the quality of construction.  Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.  By contrast, our shed had 18mm t&g walls and most of the framing is minimum of 50x38mm.  Roof is covered in 18mm chipboard (or similar).  When we had the roof covering redone recently the guy doing the work walked all over the roof and said it was totally solid.  The shed wasn't cheap, but it's worth paying for quality.  I don't want to have to replace a 10'x8' shed any time soon.

Albermarle

 Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.  By contrast, our shed had 18mm t&g walls and most of the framing is minimum of 50x38mm.  Roof is covered in 18mm chipboard (or similar).

To be fair to the online companies, they normally offer a range of qualities.

Overlap cladding and OSB/chipboard roofs and floors are the cheapest/flimsiest.

Tongue and groove is better, and shiplap ( which is a form of T&G) supposed to be better still. Ideally with T &G roof and floor.

Then if you have tanalised pressure treated wood , even better/more expensive. 

TELLIT01

Albermarle said:

 Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.  By contrast, our shed had 18mm t&g walls and most of the framing is minimum of 50x38mm.  Roof is covered in 18mm chipboard (or similar).

To be fair to the online companies, they normally offer a range of qualities.

Overlap cladding and OSB/chipboard roofs and floors are the cheapest/flimsiest.

Tongue and groove is better, and shiplap ( which is a form of T&G) supposed to be better still. Ideally with T &G roof and floor.

Then if you have tanalised pressure treated wood , even better/more expensive. 

I accept that a range of qualities can be available, but I still think it far better to see before you buy whenever possible.

FreeBear

TELLIT01 said: Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.

I've bought a couple of cheap budget sheds online. Yes, construction is somewhat flimsy (44x25mm framework, thin shiplap cladding). But for what I'm using it for (a wood store), it is adequate.

Valerie2023

ThisIsWeird said:

That's a new one to me, too. They must have a reason for saying this, but no idea what it is.
Link to the company so we can check their construction?

This is the company.

https://gilliesandmackay.com/timber-shed-vs-garage-what-difference/

The part I saw is under the heading What is the specification of a shed?

Valerie2023

TELLIT01 said:

I would look for local shed companies where you can see the quality of construction.  Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.  By contrast, our shed had 18mm t&g walls and most of the framing is minimum of 50x38mm.  Roof is covered in 18mm chipboard (or similar).  When we had the roof covering redone recently the guy doing the work walked all over the roof and said it was totally solid.  The shed wasn't cheap, but it's worth paying for quality.  I don't want to have to replace a 10'x8' shed any time soon.

 A local company with a good reputation can do me one in the size I want but it's a pent style (They don't do Apex style longer than 12' but I don't know why.)  So that made me think it might be that susceptible to leaking thing.

subjecttocontract

Valerie2023 said: I was thinking of having an 8ft X 20ft pressure treated wooden shed on an existing  concrete base, but now I'm not so sure. (The firm that says this is was based in Scotland where it is maybe a lot wetter than in England.)

Does your existing concrete base have a damp proof membrane ? It's best if you have one so that moisture doesn't rot the timber from the bottom up.

Valerie2023

TELLIT01 said:

I would look for local shed companies where you can see the quality of construction.  Neighbours bought one online and it is so flimsy that they had to put in additional bracing to keep the walls square when trying to put the roof on.  Even after that they had to fit a full length shelf internally to give it any real stability.  The walls are made of feather edge boarding more usually seen in fencing.  By contrast, our shed had 18mm t&g walls and most of the framing is minimum of 50x38mm.  Roof is covered in 18mm chipboard (or similar).  When we had the roof covering redone recently the guy doing the work walked all over the roof and said it was totally solid.  The shed wasn't cheap, but it's worth paying for quality.  I don't want to have to replace a 10'x8' shed any time soon.

So many of the on-line suppliers seem really good and then when I go looking for reviews I realise so many people have had bad experiences with them. A local company with a good reputation can do me a Pent shed in the size I want and this is what they say about the sheds-- which seems good?

Timber Tongue & Groove floor & roof • 3mm toughened glass • Galvanised Fittings • Polyester based mineral roof felt • Pressure treated, heavy duty, log lap timber finish • Delivered and installed locally on your prepared level base •

ALL DIMENSIONS ARE EXTERNAL TO WITHIN +/- 1” (25mm)
CLADDING – 20mm Cladding board H/Duty framing 43x45mm
WINDOWS – 610x457x3mm toughened
HEIGHT AT FRONT – 2130mm (84”)
HEIGHT AT BACK – 1970mm (77.5”)
DOOR OPENING – 1730x790mm (68”x 31”) ledged & braced