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ThisIsWeird

Sekekama said:

ThisIsWeird said:

When I built a unit over a socket, the unit's floor was tight under the existing socket, so I just turned them upside down. Mind you, they are hidden, and tend to be used for set appliances - hifi and stuff like that. Daughter still cusses now and then as she tries to plug in her hair dryer.
Not ideal, but a darned sight better than having the plug cable bent at a sharp angle.
So, given only the choice of doing nothing or turning them around, I'd do the latter.
That MEM is metal-cased, so presumably not ancient? (No idea of dates). But the existing MCBs are the ubiquitous M6's, and equivalent RCBOs are available, tho' silly money. As FreeBear says, that shower, at the very least, is gagging for one.
Or, replace the main switch with an RCD type, tho' a new surround looks as tho' it would be needed too for this - unless they can be cut?
With the whole leccy system looking a bit basic and dated, tho' still using PVC so no real evidence of risk, I'd still be more inclined to go individual RCBOs to reduce the risk of nuisance tripping.
That's purely a DIYer's assessment, and needs to be taken with the required.

The electrician said a new one £250-300 he would do for me I believe including installing. I just don't want to pay for a rewire right now as just had plastering done ideally if I turn the sockets upside down it's easier for me. Unsure if an electrician would do that for me if I asked? 

Ok, that's a fair quote, but please find out exactly what is being offered.
Would he also rotate the sockets?! No idea. Perhaps if you promised not to tell anyone it was him wot dun it :-)
That is an easy competent-DIY job - do you know anyone?
It's not ideal, if course; should an appliance, say your hoover, burst into flames in use, the first thing you'd do is to turn off the power - on an upside down switch. It would take you an extra second to work out 'what the heck?!'.

Jellynailer

I was advised to have a new fuse box fitted when I had my home extended in 2008.  The replacement has a trip switch which cuts the power if there is a fault in an appliance.  All I need to do is unplug the appliance that I used most recently, turn the trip switch on, and deal with the appliance = replace fuse or repair/replace the culprit. 

This is so much easier than the old type box and it is safer.

Hope this is helpful

rach_k

I would ask the electrician about the possibility of needing a rewire when you fit the RCD.  We had similar to what you currently have and were told that modern RCDs can be more sensitive to wiring problems, so it was possible that we would need to rewire if it highlighted issues they couldn't reasonably fix.  It was actually fine so we didn't need to, but I'm glad we were told of the possibility.  It might be different for you, but worth checking just in case so you can make sure it's affordable and prepare yourself mentally!

I do think it was a bit short-sighted to re-plaster without doing the RCD/potential rewire first though, particularly if you have sockets that are weird/difficult to use.  I would imagine you'll need or want to do something about it at some point, so personally I would rather get it all done around the same time rather than re-plaster, redecorate, live with weird electrics for five years, then potential re-wire with re-plastering and decoration needed again!  At this point, I'd just bite the bullet and figure out a way to do it all now.  

Sekekama

rach_k said:

I would ask the electrician about the possibility of needing a rewire when you fit the RCD.  We had similar to what you currently have and were told that modern RCDs can be more sensitive to wiring problems, so it was possible that we would need to rewire if it highlighted issues they couldn't reasonably fix.  It was actually fine so we didn't need to, but I'm glad we were told of the possibility.  It might be different for you, but worth checking just in case so you can make sure it's affordable and prepare yourself mentally!

I do think it was a bit short-sighted to re-plaster without doing the RCD/potential rewire first though, particularly if you have sockets that are weird/difficult to use.  I would imagine you'll need or want to do something about it at some point, so personally I would rather get it all done around the same time rather than re-plaster, redecorate, live with weird electrics for five years, then potential re-wire with re-plastering and decoration needed again!  At this point, I'd just bite the bullet and figure out a way to do it all now.  

So I spoke to the electrician (brothers mate and I also went school with him) he said he can put me new plug sockets in with plastic tubes covering the wires when he puts new fusebox in. Hopefully that's the end of the matter. 

Albermarle

The point about "low" sockets is not that they're mounted on wood, but that current standards make you put them higher up where a wheelchair user can reach them. 

The primary reason for the minimum mounting height is to make sure the flex coming out of the plug has sufficient space so it doesn't get bent into a too tight radius.

From previous threads I thought the reason was so you could not bash into the sockets with a vacuum cleaner or similar.

Maybe all three reasons are valid ?

Section62

Sekekama said:

rach_k said:

I would ask the electrician about the possibility of needing a rewire when you fit the RCD.  We had similar to what you currently have and were told that modern RCDs can be more sensitive to wiring problems, so it was possible that we would need to rewire if it highlighted issues they couldn't reasonably fix.  It was actually fine so we didn't need to, but I'm glad we were told of the possibility.  It might be different for you, but worth checking just in case so you can make sure it's affordable and prepare yourself mentally!

I do think it was a bit short-sighted to re-plaster without doing the RCD/potential rewire first though, particularly if you have sockets that are weird/difficult to use.  I would imagine you'll need or want to do something about it at some point, so personally I would rather get it all done around the same time rather than re-plaster, redecorate, live with weird electrics for five years, then potential re-wire with re-plastering and decoration needed again!  At this point, I'd just bite the bullet and figure out a way to do it all now.  

So I spoke to the electrician (brothers mate and I also went school with him) he said he can put me new plug sockets in with plastic tubes covering the wires when he puts new fusebox in. Hopefully that's the end of the matter. 

Sounds like plastic conduit.  Conduit looks ok in a factory or workshop, or if you are going for an 'industrial' theme in a bar, but in a house it looks horrible and gives the impression someone has been bodging things.

If you are paying an electrician you may as well pay them to do it properly.  Likewise, if you get a 'brother's mate' to do the work it needs to be on the understanding they will do the work professionally and give you all the correct paperwork including confirming the installation has been checked and tested for building control purposes.  If there was a misunderstanding and they think they are doing a weekend-cash-job you probably won't get the paperwork and will have a problem when you come to sell... as well as possibly invalidating your home/contents insurance.

Understandable you don't want to disturb newly plastered walls, but not doing the electrics properly now (even if it means chopping into the new plaster) will cost you more in the long run.

molerat

You could always go trendy retro industrial and have metal conduit

FreeBear

Sekekama said:

ThisIsWeird said:

When I built a unit over a socket, the unit's floor was tight under the existing socket, so I just turned them upside down. Mind you, they are hidden, and tend to be used for set appliances - hifi and stuff like that. Daughter still cusses now and then as she tries to plug in her hair dryer.
Not ideal, but a darned sight better than having the plug cable bent at a sharp angle.
So, given only the choice of doing nothing or turning them around, I'd do the latter.
That MEM is metal-cased, so presumably not ancient? (No idea of dates). But the existing MCBs are the ubiquitous M6's, and equivalent RCBOs are available, tho' silly money. As FreeBear says, that shower, at the very least, is gagging for one.
Or, replace the main switch with an RCD type, tho' a new surround looks as tho' it would be needed too for this - unless they can be cut?
With the whole leccy system looking a bit basic and dated, tho' still using PVC so no real evidence of risk, I'd still be more inclined to go individual RCBOs to reduce the risk of nuisance tripping.
That's purely a DIYer's assessment, and needs to be taken with the required.

The electrician said a new one £250-300 he would do for me I believe including installing. I just don't want to pay for a rewire right now as just had plastering done ideally if I turn the sockets upside down it's easier for me. Unsure if an electrician would do that for me if I asked? 

Under £300 sounds way too cheap. A decent fully populated consumer unit is going to cost £150-200 (yes, you can get cheap ones from Screwfix for under £100, but....). The Part P registration with Building Control is going to eat up the rest of that £300.. To do it properly is likely to cost £800-1000. But if you are getting Mate's Rates and that all important Part P certificate (and a decent CU), rip his arm off - You won't get a better deal.

molerat said: You could always go trendy retro industrial and have metal conduit

Go the whole hog and take the walls back to bare brick. But if you want an industrial look, just buy a warehouse/factory unit in the first place..

Any decent plasterer can seamlessly patch plaster after walls have been chased for conduit & back boxes. Getting the skirting off may well cause additional damage requiring yet more plaster and new skirting (I've had to replace all the skirting here after moving sockets).

EssexExile

Section62 said:

Sekekama said:

rach_k said:

I would ask the electrician about the possibility of needing a rewire when you fit the RCD.  We had similar to what you currently have and were told that modern RCDs can be more sensitive to wiring problems, so it was possible that we would need to rewire if it highlighted issues they couldn't reasonably fix.  It was actually fine so we didn't need to, but I'm glad we were told of the possibility.  It might be different for you, but worth checking just in case so you can make sure it's affordable and prepare yourself mentally!

I do think it was a bit short-sighted to re-plaster without doing the RCD/potential rewire first though, particularly if you have sockets that are weird/difficult to use.  I would imagine you'll need or want to do something about it at some point, so personally I would rather get it all done around the same time rather than re-plaster, redecorate, live with weird electrics for five years, then potential re-wire with re-plastering and decoration needed again!  At this point, I'd just bite the bullet and figure out a way to do it all now.  

So I spoke to the electrician (brothers mate and I also went school with him) he said he can put me new plug sockets in with plastic tubes covering the wires when he puts new fusebox in. Hopefully that's the end of the matter. 

Sounds like plastic conduit.  Conduit looks ok in a factory or workshop, or if you are going for an 'industrial' theme in a bar, but in a house it looks horrible and gives the impression someone has been bodging things.

If you are paying an electrician you may as well pay them to do it properly.  Likewise, if you get a 'brother's mate' to do the work it needs to be on the understanding they will do the work professionally and give you all the correct paperwork including confirming the installation has been checked and tested for building control purposes.  If there was a misunderstanding and they think they are doing a weekend-cash-job you probably won't get the paperwork and will have a problem when you come to sell... as well as possibly invalidating your home/contents insurance.

Understandable you don't want to disturb newly plastered walls, but not doing the electrics properly now (even if it means chopping into the new plaster) will cost you more in the long run.

I think just a couple of inches of conduit from the skirting to a higher socket would be fine, if that's what is intended. A foot or more wouldn't look so good!

MysteryMe

£300 for supply and fit of a consumer unit seems very cheap. Make sure you receive all the necessary Building Regs paperwork.

Had the consumer unit in my house changed a couple of months ago, this is SE England

Update consumer unit with new metal clad consumer unit

•

Install SPD and 30ma RCBO’s

•

Wire and install 10mm earth bonding to gas and water services

•

Test electrics on completion 

TOTAL FOR ABOVE: £850.00 PLUS VAT = £1020