Upgrade boiler in new house to Combi?

housebuyer143

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Yes, I would just run it into the ground and then replace. A power flush is done with a machine which clears the radiators of gunk and should help them get hotter. Most people just do this when they get a new boiler. 
Personally if it ain't broke then don't fix it. 

Albermarle

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Steveotwo

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Steveotwo

housebuyer143 said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Yes, I would just run it into the ground and then replace. A power flush is done with a machine which clears the radiators of gunk and should help them get hotter. Most people just do this when they get a new boiler. 
Personally if it ain't broke then don't fix it. 

Thanks I know this is the right answer, Im just nervous about my energy bill spiking this winter when compared to my last home which was a little smaller and had a greenstar bosch combi

FreeBear

Steveotwo said:

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Depending on the exact model, there should be a cover at the bottom that will pop off. Behind it will be a small knob with numbers (0-6 or similar). This will be the thermostat that controls the flow temperature. But I suspect this boiler predates the requirement to be condensing (which came in to force in 2005). Turning down the flow temperature won't do much to improve efficiency, and could end up costing you more.

Steveotwo

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Depending on the exact model, there should be a cover at the bottom that will pop off. Behind it will be a small knob with numbers (0-6 or similar). This will be the thermostat that controls the flow temperature. But I suspect this boiler predates the requirement to be condensing (which came in to force in 2005). Turning down the flow temperature won't do much to improve efficiency, and could end up costing you more.

I wont touch it then. Would you just stick with the boiler until it breaks? 20 years sounds old for a boiler but I guess they last longer than combis

FreeBear

Steveotwo said:

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Depending on the exact model, there should be a cover at the bottom that will pop off. Behind it will be a small knob with numbers (0-6 or similar). This will be the thermostat that controls the flow temperature. But I suspect this boiler predates the requirement to be condensing (which came in to force in 2005). Turning down the flow temperature won't do much to improve efficiency, and could end up costing you more.

I wont touch it then. Would you just stick with the boiler until it breaks? 20 years sounds old for a boiler but I guess they last longer than combis

My old Baxi Bermuda was still working after some 35 years. Only needed a thermocouple once and a circulation pump (which I did myself). Your boiler has a fan along with some basic electronics, so more to go wrong. If you wait until it dies, it will probably break down in the middle of the winter forcing you to replace with what ever is available at the time (and be held hostage to prices). Replacing it during the summer months gives you plenty of opportunity to research the best options and price.

I'd recommend getting the boiler serviced before winter kicks in. Ask the engineer about spares availability (and price). If he says "expensive and spares unavailable", consider replacing the boiler within a couple of years.

The only parts on my old Burmuda likely to fail were the gas valve and thermocouple (both readily available, and cheap). A cracked/leaking heat exchanger would have been terminal.. The main reason for replacing was purely down to finding an engineer willing to issue a Gas Safe certificate (not being room sealed, that was getting more difficult each year).

Steveotwo

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Depending on the exact model, there should be a cover at the bottom that will pop off. Behind it will be a small knob with numbers (0-6 or similar). This will be the thermostat that controls the flow temperature. But I suspect this boiler predates the requirement to be condensing (which came in to force in 2005). Turning down the flow temperature won't do much to improve efficiency, and could end up costing you more.

I wont touch it then. Would you just stick with the boiler until it breaks? 20 years sounds old for a boiler but I guess they last longer than combis

My old Baxi Bermuda was still working after some 35 years. Only needed a thermocouple once and a circulation pump (which I did myself). Your boiler has a fan along with some basic electronics, so more to go wrong. If you wait until it dies, it will probably break down in the middle of the winter forcing you to replace with what ever is available at the time (and be held hostage to prices). Replacing it during the summer months gives you plenty of opportunity to research the best options and price.

I'd recommend getting the boiler serviced before winter kicks in. Ask the engineer about spares availability (and price). If he says "expensive and spares unavailable", consider replacing the boiler within a couple of years.

The only parts on my old Burmuda likely to fail were the gas valve and thermocouple (both readily available, and cheap). A cracked/leaking heat exchanger would have been terminal.. The main reason for replacing was purely down to finding an engineer willing to issue a Gas Safe certificate (not being room sealed, that was getting more difficult each year).

It was serviced last month before we moved in, so Im guessing itl hold out another winter fingers crossed? I may just bite the bullet so I dont have to think about it all the time lol. was looking at a viesmann combi with 98% efficiency for around 3k

FreeBear

Steveotwo said:

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

FreeBear said:

Steveotwo said:

Albermarle said:

Steveotwo said:

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo 2004 I think around 80% at the time But I think they say you lose efficiency over time to maybe its around 70-75% now? Loft insulation is pretty decent 

How would I go about a system flush, is it pricey? Would I be best just to run this boiler into the ground and then upgrade?

Running at the correct boiler flow temperature is important. Many people ( and plumbers) set it too high and then the boiler will run at a lower % efficiency, whether it is 2 years old or 20 years old.

Not sure how id alter it on this baxi thing, its just a white box with no controls, there is a drayton controller on the wall its very complicated to use though

Depending on the exact model, there should be a cover at the bottom that will pop off. Behind it will be a small knob with numbers (0-6 or similar). This will be the thermostat that controls the flow temperature. But I suspect this boiler predates the requirement to be condensing (which came in to force in 2005). Turning down the flow temperature won't do much to improve efficiency, and could end up costing you more.

I wont touch it then. Would you just stick with the boiler until it breaks? 20 years sounds old for a boiler but I guess they last longer than combis

My old Baxi Bermuda was still working after some 35 years. Only needed a thermocouple once and a circulation pump (which I did myself). Your boiler has a fan along with some basic electronics, so more to go wrong. If you wait until it dies, it will probably break down in the middle of the winter forcing you to replace with what ever is available at the time (and be held hostage to prices). Replacing it during the summer months gives you plenty of opportunity to research the best options and price.

I'd recommend getting the boiler serviced before winter kicks in. Ask the engineer about spares availability (and price). If he says "expensive and spares unavailable", consider replacing the boiler within a couple of years.

The only parts on my old Burmuda likely to fail were the gas valve and thermocouple (both readily available, and cheap). A cracked/leaking heat exchanger would have been terminal.. The main reason for replacing was purely down to finding an engineer willing to issue a Gas Safe certificate (not being room sealed, that was getting more difficult each year).

It was serviced last month before we moved in, so Im guessing itl hold out another winter fingers crossed? I may just bite the bullet so I dont have to think about it all the time lol. was looking at a viesmann combi with 98% efficiency for around 3k

I went for a Viessmann 050, and also replace most of the radiators & plumbing at the same time. This has enabled me to run at a lower flow temperature (~50°C) and still heat the house effectively. Although the boiler was ~£2500 fitted, once the extras are accounted for, the total was over £3K - If I had paid someone to do all the plumbing, probably nearer £6K.

That £2700 quote from Octopus is starting to look much more competitive...

Steveotwo

ic said:

Have you checked the details of your boiler?  Whilst it might not be condensing, given its age it could still be pretty efficient - and might be B or C rated.  You might find yourself spending £1000s on an upgrade that might never pay for itself - especially if you might then move to a heat pump within the next ten years anyway.

Simple stuff like flushing the system, fitting TRVs if they're not present, upgrading the controls, insulating the tank and pipework to it could offer a far better return.  Also all the usual stuff - is the loft insulated, cavity walls, doors and windows draught proofed?

Its a baxi solo (2004) 80% efficent at the time maybe its running at 70 now?