Car not fully stopping sometimes at traffic lights

WellKnownSid

You have covered 5,000 miles in less than three months in a 12 year old car that now needs a brake service. I would say this is normal wear and tear.

1990xrider

WellKnownSid said:

You have covered 5,000 miles in less than three months in a 12 year old car that now needs a brake service. I would say this is normal wear and tear.

Ill recheck the mileage - might not be that high. I did do a 1,000 mile road trip in July.  However, that's not the point. Wear and tear, yes thats expected, BUT the crux of the issue is the fact the incorrect type of grease was used on the front brakepads. This is something only the dealer can be responsible for as he installed the brakepads the day we bought the car because they (the brakepads) came up as an advisory on the MOT. The front brakepads have not been touched since. 

unforeseen

1990xrider said:

But as they repaired the brakes, they are the only ones who could have put in the wrong brake fluid. They have not been touched since. 

Brake fluid isn't normally touched when brake pads are replaced

1990xrider

unforeseen said:

1990xrider said:

But as they repaired the brakes, they are the only ones who could have put in the wrong brake fluid. They have not been touched since. 

Brake fluid isn't normally touched when brake pads are replaced

I'm talking about the grease on the brakepads, which would have been touched. And the dealer has admitted to doing that - just that he didn't use copper grease. 

EssexExile

born_again said:

1990xrider said:

Any advice? As I've asked around and some people are saying this doesn't seem like it would cause such an issue, but no other faults are being found. But how can I know how to fix my car if no one can find anything actually wrong with it? 

Think plenty of advice already on what to do.
But if it does it again. Pull handbrake on. Even if it is a electric one. That will stop car.

Although posting on a BMW forum would be a good idea, where fellow owners can help & may even have faced the same issue.

I've often wondered why people post car problems on here when there are forums for their specific cars available on the internet.

1990xrider

EssexExile said:

born_again said:

1990xrider said:

Any advice? As I've asked around and some people are saying this doesn't seem like it would cause such an issue, but no other faults are being found. But how can I know how to fix my car if no one can find anything actually wrong with it? 

Think plenty of advice already on what to do.
But if it does it again. Pull handbrake on. Even if it is a electric one. That will stop car.

Although posting on a BMW forum would be a good idea, where fellow owners can help & may even have faced the same issue.

I've often wondered why people post car problems on here when there are forums for their specific cars available on the internet.

I've asked there and had only a couple responses, someone suggested an ABS ring gone bad, I told the garage this but they said as I didn't have an ABS light on it didnt' seem likely. 

facade

1990xrider said:

Garage says copper grease was put on the front brake pads which shouldn't be used, which means when the car gets heated up it won't brake fully

I think they are telling you stories....

Most garages put a smear of copper grease on the backs of the pads to stop them squealing, and on the edges that rub on the calliper to stop them seizing.

Posh garages use ceramic grease.

If you have aluminium brake callipers, and the pads actually rub directly against them rather than  chromed steel shims, then yes they should use an anti-seize that doesn't corrode aluminium. I can't imagine how copper grease will stop the bakes working when they warm up, it is good for 1100 degrees centigrade, if your brake callipers are that hot you would have other problems, not least of which being brake fluid boils below 200......

1990xrider

facade said:

1990xrider said:

Garage says copper grease was put on the front brake pads which shouldn't be used, which means when the car gets heated up it won't brake fully

I think they are telling you stories....

Most garages put a smear of copper grease on the backs of the pads to stop them squealing, and on the edges that rub on the calliper to stop them seizing.

Posh garages use ceramic grease.

If you have aluminium brake callipers, and the pads actually rub directly against them rather than  chromed steel shims, then yes they should use an anti-seize that doesn't corrode aluminium. I can't imagine how copper grease will stop the bakes working when they warm up, it is good for 1100 degrees centigrade, if your brake callipers are that hot you would have other problems, not least of which being brake fluid boils below 200......

I think its the latter, now the dealer did claim they used ceramic or aluminum. 
The diagnosis actually seems very similar to what the previous garage did 

I'm going to try and get them to clarify tommorow, but they are a very reputable garage, they've done work on the car before. 

born_again

1990xrider said:

unforeseen said:

1990xrider said:

But as they repaired the brakes, they are the only ones who could have put in the wrong brake fluid. They have not been touched since. 

Brake fluid isn't normally touched when brake pads are replaced

I'm talking about the grease on the brakepads, which would have been touched. And the dealer has admitted to doing that - just that he didn't use copper grease. 

&  from a previous post..

Garage says copper grease was put on the front brake pads which shouldn't be used, which means when the car gets heated up it won't brake fully

So which is it?

Copper grease on the back of pads will not be the problem. Used all the time to stop squealing.

Mildly_Miffed

1990xrider said:

Garage says copper grease was put on the front brake pads which shouldn't be used, which means when the car gets heated up it won't brake fully

Copper grease is used on the edge and back of pads to enable them to move freely and reduce squeel. Silicone brake grease is better, but there's nothing *wrong* with copaslip.

If too much was used, and it'd got onto the friction faces, it'd be much more likely that you'd notice a lack of bite at speed than absolutely no brakes (but only occasionally) at very low speed.

You're speculating wildly without clue, I'm afraid.

I'm still leaning towards too much idle creep and not enough brake pedal pressure.