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Dripping shower help
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dhokes
Posts: 332 Forumite


Hi, I've got a Bristan shower shown below that's started dripping from the shower head - a small droplet
every few seconds and I'm wondering what could be causing this and what
can I do to resolve this? I've already descaled the shower head as well
as replaced the shower head yet it still happens.

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Comments
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If it keeps on dripping, then it'll almost certainly be a worn on/off/flow cartridge.Relatively easy to replace, but it'll help to know the make of your shower - oops, you said it's a Bristan!How DIYable are you?0
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ThisIsWeird said:If it keeps on dripping, then it'll almost certainly be a worn on/off/flow cartridge.Relatively easy to replace, but it'll help to know the make of your shower - oops, you said it's a Bristan!How DIYable are you?0
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Do you have isolating valves on the supply to the shower - can you turn off the water supply to just the shower? If so, the best way to fix the shower mixer is to first remove it - two large nuts.
Then you can do the rest from a comfy seating position0 -
Or, carry out due diligence, but:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266673942278?
Tbh, the fixing centres will be shared with many (most) other makes, too, so potentially any known-brand thermo mixer bar should fit.
Keep in mind as a standby solution?0 -
It's often a bit of scale in the cartridge, ie the on/off valve usually on the left of the bar.
If you can turn off the hot and cold feed to the shower, you can fairly easily remove the cartridge by taking the cover off and using a spanner to remove the cartridge, then descale it with limescale remover (or harpic power plus - be careful) or buy a replacement cartridge.1 -
Veteransaver said:It's often a bit of scale in the cartridge, ie the on/off valve usually on the left of the bar.
If you can turn off the hot and cold feed to the shower, you can fairly easily remove the cartridge by taking the cover off and using a spanner to remove the cartridge, then descale it with limescale remover (or harpic power plus - be careful) or buy a replacement cartridge.
It's scary when the cartridge is tight, as it usually is - all the strain being put on the pipe connectors.
Removing the whole bar - easy - will allow this to be done more safely, but the shower will need isolators on it.
For a faulty thermo, then descaling can often sort it out. For dripping flow valves, tho', I fear it'll be simple wear, so require a replacement. Mind you, sometimes replacing the rubber O ring at the bottom will push the two ceramic surfaces more tightly together, so that could work.
Dhokes, it's your call. If you need to call a plumber out, expect this to be at least £100 for the repair, and that's if they are willing to dismantle your bar and replace the cartridge. A straight bar swap with a new beast should therefore look tempting.
Then, you fix the old one at your leisure. Even refit it if your prefer.
On that point, look at your local Fb Marketplace - I bet you'll find a second hand bar for a £enner. Swap bars, fix your Bristan, swap again.1 -
ThisIsWeird said:Veteransaver said:It's often a bit of scale in the cartridge, ie the on/off valve usually on the left of the bar.
If you can turn off the hot and cold feed to the shower, you can fairly easily remove the cartridge by taking the cover off and using a spanner to remove the cartridge, then descale it with limescale remover (or harpic power plus - be careful) or buy a replacement cartridge.
It's scary when the cartridge is tight, as it usually is - all the strain being put on the pipe connectors.
Removing the whole bar - easy - will allow this to be done more safely, but the shower will need isolators on it.
For a faulty thermo, then descaling can often sort it out. For dripping flow valves, tho', I fear it'll be simple wear, so require a replacement. Mind you, sometimes replacing the rubber O ring at the bottom will push the two ceramic surfaces more tightly together, so that could work.
Dhokes, it's your call. If you need to call a plumber out, expect this to be at least £100 for the repair, and that's if they are willing to dismantle your bar and replace the cartridge. A straight bar swap with a new beast should therefore look tempting.
Then, you fix the old one at your leisure. Even refit it if your prefer.
On that point, look at your local Fb Marketplace - I bet you'll find a second hand bar for a £enner. Swap bars, fix your Bristan, swap again.What is the average life of a shower bar? Mine is roughly 5 years old.Regarding a replacement, are there common shower bar sizes as I don't want additional holes in the tiles? Plus any brands to avoid or recommended?0 -
dhokes said:What is the average life of a shower bar? Mine is roughly 5 years old.Regarding a replacement, are there common shower bar sizes as I don't want additional holes in the tiles? Plus any brands to avoid or recommended?5 years isn't long at all, so that's disappointing. And it's usually the thermo wot plays up first, before the on/off.As far as I know, pretty much all the known brands will share the same pipe 'centres', and also the same nut thread, so you should have a world of choice out there. But, confirm first - this should be easy if you look up the installation instructions for each model, and compare them to your Bristan.See the two large chrome nuts behind the bar? They won't even be particularly tight, but will need protecting so's your spanner doesn't scratch them - card or cloth sleeve should do.First - do they have isolating valves?! If so, turn them off, and remove the bar. Then remove the cartridge. If it feels 'loose' when you turn it, or scratchy or scrapy, then replace it. Jobbie jobbed.If they don't have isol valves, then either buy a cheapo second hand jobbie to temporarily fit in its place, or buy a new one like the 'Bristan' I linked to above. Turn off your water supply, swap them, turn back on, and repair the oldie at your leisure.Keep an eye out on t'Bay - that 'Bristan' seems like a fair deal, but you'll almost certainly get better deals if you check out some 'auctions'. Or, go for a different brand after confirming the fitting centres and nut sizes are the same - most likely they will be.All 'known' makes are fine. They'll likely even share the same internals.1
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