Repairing artex after water leak

TELLIT01

We had a water leak which resulted in an area of ceiling artex approx 15" x 6" detaching from plasterboard above.  The artex hasn't fallen off, just detached and split along its centre line.  Rather than cutting the section away and getting it redone, I'm wondering if it could be reattached using contact adhesive spray.  The thought is to cut across the split to create 4 sections, this would create an opening wide enough to apply the adhesive spray, then press the artex back into place.  It would probably require the edges to be trimmed back and filling but potentially a quicker and easier fix.  Is that practical or just a daft idea?

TELLIT01

Just giving this a nudge as it's most unusual not to get any response to a question.

ThisIsWeird

Sorry, missed this.
Any chance of a photo?
In essence, I can't see why this cannot be done - it's certainly the sort of thing I'd try!
I'd use a solvent-free adhesive, tho', perhaps after having coated the surfaces in PVA or SBR.
If the loose part is very defined, then I think I'd start by running a craft knife around the obviously loose edge, and keep going until cut through. Then remove the section in as many, or few, pieces as it takes.
Clean up the exposed surfaces. SBR or PVA them if showing any signs of dustiness or crumbliness.
Examine the edges of the remaining artex surrounding the missing part - are they loose at all? If so, they need fixing back in place, so brush in PVA as far as you can, and then prop a flat panel up against it using a suitable pole, to push it firmly back into place. Allow to set.
Then check the fit of the pieces to be returned - mark them with a pencil if you need a guide of where they go. Apply beads of non-solvent adh, and press firmly into place. Carry on until it's all done. Wipe away with a damp cloth any adh that squishes out - it won't be easy to sand when set.
Then board and pole to keep it firmly in place.
If you have a piece of something squishy - underlay, even carpet, then place this between the board and the artex in order to spread the force.
Once dry, apply filler into all the cracks and joints using your finger, following the artex profile. Wipe away excess sideways using a damp cloth. It may need a second layer once dry, but again wipe away excess and use the cloth to feather the skim on to the surrounding. With luck it'll only need the most perfunctory sanding to make good.
Keep us posted - show us the results!

TELLIT01

Thanks @ThisIsWeird, you think PVA would be a better option?  I hadn't considered it because of the time it takes the adhesive to set.  Your suggestion to prop something against the ceiling could work as I have an extending pole from Wolf Garden tools which might do the trick.  I'll try to get some photos and post them.

ThisIsWeird

TELLIT01 said:

Thanks @ThisIsWeird, you think PVA would be a better option?  I hadn't considered it because of the time it takes the adhesive to set.  Your suggestion to prop something against the ceiling could work as I have an extending pole from Wolf Garden tools which might do the trick.  I'll try to get some photos and post them.

The PVA is for two purposes - the first is to fix down and seal the exposed edges of the remaining artex surrounding the piece that's coming off. 

Whenever you get that "loose bit of plaster skim"-type situation, where you end up hacking away any obviously loose stuff, but then wonder if you are loosening the rest, and perhaps you should just stop; the "ok, now how much more 'loose' stuff do i keep scraping off?" It can be never-ending. 

At some point, you'll likely make the judgement to stop scraping, and then hope that the rest stays put. You will almost certainly have that scenario when you remove the loose bit of artex here. You will look at the remaining artex, and wonder how well attached it is So, fix these edges before doing anything else.

You can help ensure it stays put by brushing PVA firmly against that artex-to-plasterboard edge, and if there's any gap at all - try and force the PVA in there. Then press the surrounding artex into place (if you suspect there's a gap at all).

So, that's - hopefully - the surrounding bit taken care of. Oh, wipe away any PVA from the actual cosmetic surface before it dries - paint will hate it.

Now you have the exposed plasterboard surface. It may well be ok and ready to take adhesive, but good chance it's also dirty, dusty, chalky, whatevs, so not at all a good surface to try and stick anything on to. So, this is the second purpose of PVA - wipe the surfaces clean using a damp cloth, until all dusty stuff comes off. Then brush it with PVA to seal and prime it. You can dilute this PVA with around 10% water to make it more sinkinable. Ditto with the mating surface of the removed artex pieces - if they are dusty, then clean them up and prime/seal them.

To actually stick these bits back into place, I'd suggest the non-solvent (ie, water-based) adhesive which comes in cartridge tubes from the likes of SF and TS or anywhere else. I like non-solvent stuff because it doesn't 'skin' as quickly, and any excess can be wiped away using nothing more than a damp cloth.

So, nice zigzag beading of non-s, and press the bits back into their rightful place. Press firmly, wipe away any excess, place the board and prop there to hold it. Leave it for at least one day.

Then fill the wee cracks and gaps and cut lines with filler.