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Worcester Boiler low pressure

Giggidy
Posts: 256 Forumite


I just noticed the Worcester Greenstar 30cdi boiler we have is in the red below 1bar. We moved here a few months ago and I have no idea how to adjust the pressure. The manuals are not helpful. Google says there should be a internal filling key option or a keyless option of which there is neither. Can someone please help me with how to do this? It should really be a simple task but for the life of me cant figure out how.




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the answer may well be in the bendy silver pipe with a tap at each end.1
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sevenhills said:0
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Flugelhorn said:the answer may well be in the bendy silver pipe with a tap at each end.0
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Giggidy said:
I watched all these videos on youtube but none apply as the black bit to put the key into is not under our boiler and no key included either
The key should be clipped to the white plastic fold-down cover, you need to look inside/underneath your boiler, it cannot be seen in your photo.Has your boiler been serviced, maybe an engineer would service and repressure it for you, and show you how to do it?1 -
Giggidy said:Flugelhorn said:the answer may well be in the bendy silver pipe with a tap at each end.Just leave that blanking screw/plug dangling where it is. Open the two taps either end of the flexi hose, and once the gurgling has stopped (and the boiler pressure risen), turn the taps off.That blanking screw/plug is only needed if you remove the flexi hose.
Her courage will change the world.
Treasure the moments that you have. Savour them for as long as you can for they will never come back again.2 -
FreeBear said:Giggidy said:Flugelhorn said:the answer may well be in the bendy silver pipe with a tap at each end.Just leave that blanking screw/plug dangling where it is. Open the two taps either end of the flexi hose, and once the gurgling has stopped (and the boiler pressure risen), turn the taps off.That blanking screw/plug is only needed if you remove the flexi hose.
Put the pressure to 1.5 when the system is cold, then bleed all your radiators and put the pressure back to 1.5
It will go up a little, maybe 0.2 when the system runs but if it loses pressure again then it's time to find the leak.0 -
What a nice tidy plumbing installation. That installer took pride in their work.
Current "best practice" is to disconnect the filling loop and blank off the ends once you have established a correct pressure. That's because the valves at either end of the loop are known to seep water, this can then lead to over pressure of the system.
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As said above, it's topped up using the two black plastic levers on the valves at each end of the flexi hose.
I'd just add, for folk who are new to this:
1) turn off the boiler
2) open one valve first, fairly slowly, listening for the hiss of water, until it's fully open - ie the lever is in line with valve body. There shouldn't be a hiss as the other end is still closed, so stop and re-close it if there is = summat amiss.3) with one tap now fully open, then more slowly begin to open the other valve whilst listening for that hisss - which should now occur. As soon as you begin to hear that hiss, and even before, keep an eye on the analogue pressure gauge.4) Adjust the opening of that second valve in order to control the ascent speed of the needle. If it's taking an age to move, open a small amount more - you get the idea. However, resist just 'opening' the valve fully, as you run the strong risk of overshooting the desired pressure level, and even - as dil once did - popping open the safety discharge valve, which then continue to let by...5) I suggest you stop at 1 bar, or slightly above - say to 1.2. There is simply no need to go higher, unless you have a multi-storey building. The lower the pressure, the less the overall stress on the system.6) Once pressure achieved, shut off both valves fully.Jobbie jobbed.
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ThisIsWeird said:As said above, it's topped up using the two black plastic levers on the valves at each end of the flexi hose.
I'd just add, for folk who are new to this:
1) turn off the boiler
2) open one valve first, fairly slowly, listening for the hiss of water, until it's fully open - ie the lever is in line with valve body. There shouldn't be a hiss as the other end is still closed, so stop and re-close it if there is = summat amiss.3) with one tap now fully open, then more slowly begin to open the other valve whilst listening for that hisss - which should now occur. As soon as you begin to hear that hiss, and even before, keep an eye on the analogue pressure gauge.4) Adjust the opening of that second valve in order to control the ascent speed of the needle. If it's taking an age to move, open a small amount more - you get the idea. However, resist just 'opening' the valve fully, as you run the strong risk of overshooting the desired pressure level, and even - as dil once did - popping open the safety discharge valve, which then continue to let by...5) I suggest you stop at 1 bar, or slightly above - say to 1.2. There is simply no need to go higher, unless you have a multi-storey building. The lower the pressure, the less the overall stress on the system.6) Once pressure achieved, shut off both valves fully.Jobbie jobbed.1
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