Thoughts on bike and firewood storage options

FreeBear

Emily_Joy said: Why kiln dried firewood is a waste of money? Sellers seem to advertise it as a better option heat-wise.

You buy a crate of kiln dried logs and they may well be at 10% moisture content on the surface. In the middle of the log, it could be 25%.. Stacked in the autumn outside or in a shed, ready to use over winter, the logs will absorb moisture from the environment and could well end up at 18-20% when you eventually get to use them. In comparison, air dried logs should be at a consistent 20% or so right through to the middle. The other thing to bear in mind is the energy consumption to run a kiln - Some will use waste timber from processing the logs, others might be gas or electrically powered.

I have a large stack of logs under cover outside slowly seasoning. In the spring, I'll move them in to a 10x6 shed where they will get baked over summer and drive the moisture content down to 10-15%. The basket load brought in earlier today from the shed are reading 18-19%. And the ones that have been sitting near the stove for a couple of days are currently reading 10%.

Emily_Joy

@Grenage @FreeBear Thank you for reassurance. I bought seasoned, not kiln-dried just because it was cheaper so I thought Iwe will give it ago. Didn't have any problems yet and a couple of large logs keep the lounge nice and warm at 20 degrees for at least 6 hours. We currently use cheap greenhouses from Wilko for seasoning. 

moneysaver1978

Maybe just me but I would avoid having both bike and wood in the same "room" - the wood splinters cannot be good for the bikes/tyres, surely?

Mutton_Geoff

I bought a shed from Waltons. I was impressed by the quality although I did replace the plastic windows with glass and bought a single piece of EDPM for the roof instead of the felt they supply.

Personally I would then buy a custom open air wood store to fit the side/back of your shed and keep the wood outside in the breeze. Loads of sellers on Ebay.

To build the whole lot, I got a builder to mix and lay a concrete base for me that was above the surrounding ground level and a few cm smaller than the shed base so the walls of the shed overhang and water doesn't collect around the base. Assembled it in half a day and used Protek wood stain to paint it.

Albermarle

I bought a shed from Waltons. I was impressed by the quality although I did replace the plastic windows with glass and bought a single piece of EDPM for the roof instead of the felt they supply.

I bought one from Tiger sheds and it was also good quality. However there were various qualities/price levels, so you have to look carefully at the details. IIIRC tanalised/pressure treated timber sheds are the most expensive, as they will last for decades without any need for painting them with preservative. Tongue and groove boarding, but not pressure treated ( just dipped in preservative) is the middle ground, and shiplap cladding the cheapest. I think at the least it is best to have a timber floor and not some kind outdoor MDF. It claims to be OK but I think will be a problem if it gets very wet. 

Also better with glass windows !

Emily_Joy

I am not sure the bike shed actually needs windows. @Mutton_Geoff Did you order EPDM from Waltons as well? Our yard is gravel, so I was thinking a concrete base is not necessary. @Albermarle There is indeed several shiplap cladding constructions in the garden and all of them need replacing.

Emily_Joy

I think we eventually go for Abany, since Waltons don't seem to have the right size. If we are to put the shed next to the wall supporting the first tier (more or less where the table is at the moment), how much space do we need between the shed and the wall?

FreeBear

300mm will give you (or a small child) enough room to squeeze up the side to do essential maintenance. 150-200mm is enough to allow for air flow.