Switch timer

Gerry1

inigma said:

I am tempted to get a leccy out to put a timer on the water heater so it isn't on all the time.

Absolutely pointless for two reasons, you're clutching at straws.

Firstly, you can simulate a timer yourself by switching the immersion heater manually, no need to waste money and time.

Secondly, you've already been told it's not the immersion heater being left on.  Take readings at least twice daily and see whether it switching it off overnight makes much of a difference.  Spoiler: It won't.

Gerry1

inigma said:

I switched the hot water pod off and the red lights flashed 5 times in 60 seconds.

That's more like it, a background load of 300W.  Where exactly did you switch the immersion heaters off, at the Bottom and Top switches, or at the consumer unit?

inigma

The bottom and top switches (we only ever have the bottom part of the heater switched on) i left the consumer unit alone for now.
We were told to keep the bottom heater switched on all the time as it wouldn't cost us as much then to use the top heater when we have run out of hot water and need to replenish it.

inigma

inigma said:

The bottom and top switches (we only ever have the bottom part of the heater switched on) i left the consumer unit alone for now.
We were told to keep the bottom heater switched on all the time as it wouldn't cost us as much then to use the top heater when we have run out of hot water and need to replenish it.

I don't have both on*

victor2

inigma said:

inigma said:

The bottom and top switches (we only ever have the bottom part of the heater switched on) i left the consumer unit alone for now.
We were told to keep the bottom heater switched on all the time as it wouldn't cost us as much then to use the top heater when we have run out of hot water and need to replenish it.

I don't have both on*

I don't understand why you are seeing high usage now, when the E7 circuit should not be active. Unless it's relying on an incorrectly set timer switch. Also don't see how an immersion heater on all day could use so much electricity.
Leave it off overnight if you can, and see if something else doesn't work.

Gerry1

inigma said:

We were told to keep the bottom heater switched on all the time as it wouldn't cost us as much then to use the top heater when we have run out of hot water and need to replenish it.

That's true only if you are on E7, but you're not.

victor2 said:

I don't understand why you are seeing high usage now, when the E7 circuit should not be active. Unless it's relying on an incorrectly set timer switch. Also don't see how an immersion heater on all day could use so much electricity.
Leave it off overnight if you can, and see if something else doesn't work.

Both the Top and Bottom switches will be live 24h because the OP has a 4-terminal single rate meter.

inigma

Thank you, what would be my best option for this to help reduce my bills?

Robin9

THat meter dates from 2003 and shows 29,901 kWh -  that 1,500 a year.  In line with your bachelor days.

Have you actual reads for the last 12 months or so ?

inigma

It clicked over 99,999
Yes i did watch it happen

Scot_39

inigma said:

Hi apologies for the tardiness, I am dealing with a 4 year old on christmas holidays!  I do appreciate everyones input, this is my meter.  The red light flashes quite a bit maybe every 1.5 seconds

Struggling to quickly find a manual for that particular meter - but their is a suggestion in this you tube video - around 1:50min in - that the meter is purely single rate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKBezQmN9Xw

So despite the two heater element set-up - both switches are probably live 24/7 - which might well agree with you posting imp light flash rates at 6@25 and 6:38 this evening using the top switch for full tank bottom heater.

So everytime the thermostat drops below it's hysterisis level - it will be reheating the tank to the cut off temperature (e.g. if set to 60 - with an 8C centred hysteris - that could be cycling 56 - 64) continuously.

The obvious sign of that would be your hot water will feel as burningly warm once pipe runs cleared at the end of the day as it does in the morning etc.

And if that's the case - then you probably do want to get a permanent connection type timer switch fitted to reduce this.

Another clue is perhaps the absence of any button to cycle between two rate readings. Or any wiring for a switched 7.7 live supply - or auxiliary contactor wiring to externally switch that supply.

So @inigma

Can you confirm whether you are or are not on E7 or other multirate tariff - or providing one meter reading or two ?

I suspect - if a heavy hot water user - best option would be to fit a timer and experiment with timings - start with say 1 hr morning - 1hr mid-late afternoon (*) - perhaps once more if wife / kid need a lot of hot water earlier in afternoon - depending on whether tank feeds showers etc.

Edit * As an interim - you might find relying on the upper heater - heats less of the tank - and lowers the energy use - but unlikely to be dramatic.  (I've only really come across it when one was on E7 charged at off-peak - often less than half the rate of e7 peak rate - to avoid using expensive day rate to heat the whole tank)

Edit 2 - Or as above suggestion - if disciplined - switch on / off yourself - but expect grief from your OH if forget to switch it on ahead of need.

A lot of people with only run their tank heater every 2-3 days - it just depends on total demand really - and how hot you want it when.

(*) But don't expect that to cut use by 1/12 cf now - the thermostat should mean the heater would only ever by one for c 2hrs at a time from completely cold for a 120l tank - and then only to heat cold fill - unlikely to be a whole tank at a time - even if switch on for 24/7.