Bathroom pull chord switch fixing

danrv
danrv Posts: 1,379
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Hi
I need to replace a pull chord light switch and also a shower isolation switch in my bathroom.
Have bought the necessary items but just stuck on a couple of things:

Unsure about the ceiling tile material. Where the cable goes through the ceiling, it's a light grey colour with a kind of paper coating.
It might be Gypsum as the ground floor ceiling tiles have it printed on them.

Also, the light switch is mounted in the middle of a tile and was wondering about how to fix it in place. There's a couple of captive type screws in place that were used for the old one.
The shower switch cable protrudes through next to a joist so the switch can be partially screwed to that.
Have bought a Crabtree 50a pull chord switch to replace the old one (8.5kw shower). It has a built in mounting box so could probably do away with one like the old switch has.
Any help appreciated.



https://www.toolstation.com/crabtree-50a-pull-switch/p34147?utm_source=googleshopping,Rakuten&utm_medium=feed,affiliates&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed,4639016784269188493493093&utm_content=Redbrain&ranMID=46390&ranEAID=pfxNKSnglIM&ranSiteID=pfxNKSnglIM-M24xA1YVNNVAZnnEApZ_Tg

Comments

  • DullGreyGuy
    DullGreyGuy Posts: 9,055
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    edited 21 December 2023 at 1:28PM
    Normally the ceiling would be plasterboard.

    If you can align the new mounting holes to the existing rawlplugs/fixings then just reuse them, else put in new ones suitable for plasterboard. 
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 4,458
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    It's good that you have access to above, 'cos that p'board is in a poor state.
    I see only one fixing up there - where's the other?
  • chris_n
    chris_n Posts: 605
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    Stick a piece of ply or OSB over the top of the plasterboard with no nails or similar. Cut a slot for the cable so it isn't trapped. Leave it overnight then fit the switch with woodscrews.
    Living the dream in the Austrian Alps.
  • ThisIsWeird
    ThisIsWeird Posts: 4,458
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    I'd be inclined to do as Chris says.
    Whatever you have available - even a couple of short pieces of timber batten. Brush away that loose debris, make a paper sleeve for the cable and slide it down into the hole, coming out a bit into the room below. Brush PVA thoroughly into all the rough board there, and then coat a couple of timber battens (or a panel as Chris says) and lay one either side of the cable, with a small weight on top. Make sure PVA oozes out t'sides. Allow to dry.
    And then use normal wood screws to fix.
    Ideally you'd fit these battens as 'noggins', secured between the two joists, but anything is better than what's there - which surely cannot last.
    If you have Gorilla adhesive - the type that foams and gap-fills - then better still, as it should fill that void. But make sure the cable is safely sleeved and protected first.
  • you need some wooden battens to fix to above the plasterboard. cut bits of wood (25mm x 50mm batten minimum) and put between the joists and tack in with some screws, then you can fix the switches below up to them
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,379
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    I see only one fixing up there - where's the other?
    The other one's a bit neater.


  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,379
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    chris_n said:
    Stick a piece of ply or OSB over the top of the plasterboard with no nails or similar. Cut a slot for the cable so it isn't trapped. Leave it overnight then fit the switch with woodscrews.
    Yes, good idea. I also have some roofing batten but I think a square piece of ply should do ok.
  • Lorian
    Lorian Posts: 5,674
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    edited 21 December 2023 at 8:32PM
    Hard to tell from photo but given the short distance between the top of the shower curtain and the switch it might be in zone 2?

    The cables are running under the insulation too.

    Could be more things to consider here too.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,379
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    edited 3 January at 1:16PM
    chris_n said:
    Stick a piece of ply or OSB over the top of the plasterboard with no nails or similar. Cut a slot for the cable so it isn't trapped. Leave it overnight then fit the switch with woodscrews.
    That works well.
    Have used a bit of roofing batten alongside the joist for the shower switch.







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