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Should I pull out?

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  • This is a 1930's house. It is never going to meet modern building standards.

    Most of the stuff on that list is just the surveyor covering their own back. There is absolutely nothing on that list that would give me any cause for concern in a 1930's house.

    Budget for the electrics being updated at some point but the rest of it is a case of living with the house and seeing what maintenance is required as you go along.
    I completely agree, the house is nearly 100 years old and it's still standing. Despite what surveys might make you think, houses don't just fall down. The only way to value a house is by comparables. Asking vendors to fund the cost of your new electrics/roof/bathroom/kitchen etc isn't going to work as the finished item will be very different from what was marketed for £x. Just make sure £x represents good value for you.

    I've redeveloped several high value properties (eg buy £750-£1m, spend £500k, sell at profit) and can say that everything always costs more & takes longer than you think. If it's your own house, then who cares if something went over budget as long as you're comfortable in a place you can call home. There is an obsession to always make on the deal, probably caused by an overdose of property porrn on TV. 
    Signature on holiday for two weeks
  • Albermarle
    Albermarle Posts: 27,786 Forumite
    10,000 Posts Seventh Anniversary Name Dropper
    This is a 1930's house. It is never going to meet modern building standards.

    Most of the stuff on that list is just the surveyor covering their own back. There is absolutely nothing on that list that would give me any cause for concern in a 1930's house.

    Budget for the electrics being updated at some point but the rest of it is a case of living with the house and seeing what maintenance is required as you go along.
    It depends I think on when the electrics were last updated, presumably the house does not have the original 1930's wiring.
    When we had a loft conversion we had to replace the main fuse board with a consumer unit with circuit breakers. Knowing the main house wiring was probably over 40 years old, I tentatively asked the electricians opinion about it.
    He said as long as it was coloured PVC insulation on the wires ( and not old black rubber or similar) then it was OK.
    Not sure quite how technically correct that was, but I was happy to hear it !
  • Ksw3
    Ksw3 Posts: 390 Forumite
    Third Anniversary 100 Posts Name Dropper
    I just bought my first house, also 1930s. I wouldn't worry about that report. Even if repairs are needed, its quite rare for them all to be done immediately as you move in. 

    The damp detector devices as far as I know are configured only to be used on wood. Are there any visible signs of damp, if so where? If its an outside wall you probably just need to make sure the ground level outside isn't too high. 
  • LHW99
    LHW99 Posts: 5,216 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 1,000 Posts Photogenic Name Dropper
    The ground floor walls were methodically inspected with a protimeter moisture meter, to detect the
    presence of damp. High level readings of damp were recorded in the lounge and kitchen diner.
    Damp was also observed and recorded to the landing window wall


    These links will give you an idea on damp meters and their accuracy:

    https://www.heritage-house.org/damp-and-condensation/the-ping-prong-meter-guilty-of-fraud.html

    https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/moisture-sensors-probably-accurate-you-have-been-led-mike-winton


    It is worth reading exactly what and where the supposed damp is, if there is a significant level, it is likely to be showing signs on the internal walls.
    As KSW3 says: Check the external ground levels in relation to the (existing) DPC, which will be working.
    Then check guttering, to see if any seals are leaking / sections missing. Have a look at the pointing on any suspect wall - gaps between the brickwork can let driving rain penetrate. Check radiators for leaks in the suspect areas.
  • For what it is worth my home of 30 years - built in the 1930s - has no felt under the (original) slates either. It has never been an issue and I doubt it will be until I am long dead.

    Many older properties have rising damp but the proofing for over £3000 is very expensive. I would get some more quotes if you decide to go ahead and buy.

    The electricity will need looking at of course but a new fuse board can be bought for about £50 and an electrician will fit it for about the same.

    I my view - which is worthless - the right "feeling" - means alot. Listen to your gut.
    Please let me know where you can get a new fuse board for 50 quid, and the sparky you use to fit it for another 50!
  • Having read nothing but the title on this thread.

    That is an age old question.....should you pull out or not?

    🤣🤣🤣

    Merry Christmas
  • penners324
    penners324 Posts: 3,511 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    Doesn't damp proof causing actually make things worse in older properties?

    Ita a 100 year old building. Nothing major wrong with it.

    I reckon you carry on
  • A second for rising damp unlikely. Who gave you a quote? Was it free? How’s the guttering? Chimney? How high are the ground levels above the damp course outside?
    2006 LBM £28,000+ in debt.
    2021 mortgage and debt free, working part time and living the dream
  • Having read nothing but the title on this thread.

    That is an age old question.....should you pull out or not?

    🤣🤣🤣

    Merry Christmas
    If you don't pull out, the studio flat becomes a one bed flat, becomes a two bed flat, becomes a 3 bed semi, becomes a 4 bed detached. And then two decades later, you downsize  B)
    Signature on holiday for two weeks
  • dinkylink said:
    For what it is worth my home of 30 years - built in the 1930s - has no felt under the (original) slates either. It has never been an issue and I doubt it will be until I am long dead.

    Many older properties have rising damp but the proofing for over £3000 is very expensive. I would get some more quotes if you decide to go ahead and buy.

    The electricity will need looking at of course but a new fuse board can be bought for about £50 and an electrician will fit it for about the same.

    I my view - which is worthless - the right "feeling" - means alot. Listen to your gut.
    Please let me know where you can get a new fuse board for 50 quid, and the sparky you use to fit it for another 50!

    eBay. Amazon. Take a look yourself.
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