Warranty or not warranty

Mutton_Geoff

I've never heard of brakes being lubricated to stop them making a noise.

cymruchris

Mutton_Geoff said:

I've never heard of brakes being lubricated to stop them making a noise.

Maybe the addition of copper grease to the backs of the pads to prevent squeal?

Bigwheels1111

Re brakes, every 2 years I remove the callipers, take out the pads.
I clean the back of the pads with brake cleaner and then put copper ease back on them.
I then remove the brake hangers and wire brush them clean and apply a little copper ease to the rim where the pads slide back and forth. Refit everything.
Then do the same on the back.
I do a slow but good job on them, takes me 2 hours.
Could bodge it in 1 hour.
I find it relaxing.
Car brake’s straight and hard.

Ganga

Thanks for all the help full replies ,today i spent 25 mins adjusting the handbrake ,you have to remove the plastic trim around the lever ,only 1 screw ,move a small cover and tighten up a 6mm nut on the cable.
Had a look at the front discs ,took one wheel off ( was jammed due to rust on the hub ) checked the disc and pads etc. all ok so job done and do not need Evans Halshaw help to empty my wallet 

Mildly_Miffed

Mutton_Geoff said:

I've never heard of brakes being lubricated to stop them making a noise.

Pad backings, edges, guide pins and clips.
Caliper sliders.

Mildly_Miffed

Ganga said:

Thanks for all the help full replies ,today i spent 25 mins adjusting the handbrake ,you have to remove the plastic trim around the lever ,only 1 screw ,move a small cover and tighten up a 6mm nut on the cable.
Had a look at the front discs ,took one wheel off ( was jammed due to rust on the hub ) checked the disc and pads etc. all ok so job done and do not need Evans Halshaw help to empty my wallet 

That's adjusting for stretch on the cables (mostly needed on assembly with new cables), rather than wear in the friction materials - that'll be automatic in the drums or in the calipers.

Alloys stick on the hub because nobody bothered to put a smear of copaslip on last time the wheel was off. It's easy to remove a stuck wheel. Just put the bolts in loosely, put the car back on the ground, and drive along for a few metres, turning the steering left and right.

Ganga

Mildly_Miffed said:

Ganga said:

Thanks for all the help full replies ,today i spent 25 mins adjusting the handbrake ,you have to remove the plastic trim around the lever ,only 1 screw ,move a small cover and tighten up a 6mm nut on the cable.
Had a look at the front discs ,took one wheel off ( was jammed due to rust on the hub ) checked the disc and pads etc. all ok so job done and do not need Evans Halshaw help to empty my wallet 

That's adjusting for stretch on the cables (mostly needed on assembly with new cables), rather than wear in the friction materials - that'll be automatic in the drums or in the calipers.

Alloys stick on the hub because nobody bothered to put a smear of copaslip on last time the wheel was off. It's easy to remove a stuck wheel. Just put the bolts in loosely, put the car back on the ground, and drive along for a few metres, turning the steering left and right.

I have found in life most automatic adjusters on rear brake drums ( Dacia Sandero has rear drums ) dont work due to brake dust etc, when i drove a Ford Transit i used to take each drum off and get someone to push the footbrake pedal down by hand till you hears the click of the adjuster working ,also used a die grinding bit in an electric drill to take the raised ridge off the drum so the shoes fitted better.
The front wheels of my car have probably never been off as it only had 5800 miles on when bought in June this year.