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MOT - Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure
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Hi, just looking for advice on the following repair I need...
Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt. Nearside front outer (no rear clip) [6.17 (g) (ii)]
Is it a huge job as the garage seemed to imply i was in for hundreds in costs to fix
I've got an Audi A3 2008
Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt. Nearside front outer (no rear clip) [6.17 (g) (ii)]
Is it a huge job as the garage seemed to imply i was in for hundreds in costs to fix
I've got an Audi A3 2008
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Comments
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Is this a garage you trust? CV boots are are a minor thing. I don't know about that car in particular, but you're usually looking at something like 20 or 30 quid for the part and an hour's labour tops.
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It depends on how they plan to repair it.
If it's just the clip that's missing, it a minutes job without taking anything apart.
If the boot is actually split there are a few ways to fix it.
The CV boot kit is only a few quid but to replace it requires the driveshaft splitting from the suspension and hub, so the brake caliper and disc need moving or removing.
The outer CV joint knocking off the drive shaft, then the boot can be replaced and the CV joint reinstalled and the hub and suspension built back up.
A couple of hours labour, plus the part, plus VAT.
There is a cheaper way and that is to use a split boot.
This goes on without taking everything apart. It's split so wraps around and is glued together.
It's a minutes job but they don't always last.
A more expensive part way would be to replace the whole driveshaft assembly including the CV joints.
A reconditioned part could be swapped in an hour or so as they aren't dismantling the shaft and CV joint and the reconditioned part around £100, so it depends on how much labour it saves or if the CV joint is damaged, it'd need a new one anyway.
Ask them how they plan to fix it.0 -
My Volvo had the same issue at last MoT, and it turns out that Volvo's current drive shaft design prevents the easy replacement of the boot. Yeah, me too...
Only solution was a new driveshaft. Found an aftermarket replacement as the manufacturer's cost price was ludicrous.0 -
Your tester has added a helpful note to the standard fail statement as:
Nearside front outer (no rear clip)
Hopefully you can find the boot which will have a missing clip at one end. Repair with a cable tie.
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GKM22 said:
Drive shaft joint constant velocity boot split or insecure, no longer prevents the ingress of dirt. Nearside front outer (no rear clip) [6.17 (g) (ii)]
Is it a huge job as the garage seemed to imply i was in for hundreds in costs to fix
I've got an Audi A3 2008
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sevenhills said:
OP - if it was just a clip, I'd have thought the tester would offer to put a clip on - 2 min job, which suggests it may need a new CV boot. We used to successfully use 'stretchy' cv boots which meant the cv joint didn't need splitting from the drive shaft which saved some faffing/labour.
Only way is to get a quote - I'm sure someone on here will tell you if it's reasonable...1 -
If it's the outer clip, it needs to be a proper CV Boot clip because there isn't room for a zip-tie to go in there - the block where it pulls through will foul on the upright. This is the same on the front as my 2000 Audi TT. As above, just adding a clip is a really simple job, though it'll be much easier with the wheel off.
Swapping the boot itself isn't really a big job, I would normally remove the driveshaft and do the job on the bench, which means that if you're paying someone to do it, get them to change the inner boot at the same time. It'll add a few minutes on the job, and maybe £20 for the boot, but you'll save the labour if the inner one is on the way out but not bad enough to mention on the MOT.0 -
Do they not make a tool ( looks like a whisk ) that stretches the gaiter to put it over the end when removed from the wheel and the ball joint removed.0
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Ganga said:Do they not make a tool ( looks like a whisk ) that stretches the gaiter to put it over the end when removed from the wheel and the ball joint removed.
Various cone type devices are available to force an especially stretchy rubber boot over the CV joint.
I've seen them fitted with compressed air used as the force.0 -
Yes, I have seen such a tool and it is used on an air compressor. To me it just means you're working in limited space on the car with all the other bits and pieces constantly getting in the way, compared to undoing an extra six bolts to remove the driveshaft completely and work on the bench.0
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