Making home more energy efficient

meat_n2_reg

Hello 
In process of renovating 1970's semi 
Boiler replacement  in progress
New double glazing in progress 

Now looking at improving insulation 

There is a small amount of roof insulation which needs increasing and no cavity wall insulation 

Is there any government schemes currently running that I can apply to for help with insulation ?

Many thanks 

Keep_pedalling

There is, but it it is only available if your home has an EPC rating of D or worse, and it is means tested. I looked at this as we are planning on insulating our raised wooden floors and solid brick walls at the side and back of our 1930s semi, but fell at the first hurdle (EPC =C). Loft insulation is not that expensive and most people could DIY that.

https://www.gov.uk/apply-great-british-insulation-scheme

rob7475

check this link to see if you can get free insulation:

https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/utilities/free-cavity-loft-insulation/

I think you apply through your energy supplier. They may or may not ask you to contribute towards the cost after they do their survey

meat_n2_reg

Many thanks I've applied to Great British Insulation scheme (via BGas), will see how it goes , probably going to be a big queue 

FreeBear

meat_n2_reg said: In process of renovating 1970's semi 
Boiler replacement  in progress
New double glazing in progress 

Now looking at improving insulation

Going through the same process here with a late 1920s semi.

Windows & doors all done.

Boiler replaced earlier this year.

Loft insulated to the max, now doing walls on a room by room basis (insulating internally).

Some comments on the process to date - Well worth fitting larger radiators when installing a new boiler. Depending on the state of the pipes, it might also pay to replumb with bigger bore pipes - Doing both will put you in a better position when heat pumps are the only viable replacement for a gas boiler. In the meantime, larger radiators will mean you can run at lower flow temperatures which equates to higher boiler efficiency.

Windows & doors - Quality of installation is much better than the A++ or wot ever rating of the windows. A badly fitted A++ window will never perform as well as a well fitted plain old A one.

Wall insulation - If you plan on having external wall insulation fitted, the window sills need extending. Fitting wider sills now would mean you don't have to use extension pieces when the insulation is fitted. But ideally, windows & EWI should be done in conjunction with each other. Insulating the walls internally throws up other problems such as adequate support for radiators, curtain rails, and kitchen wall units - In a well insulated house, there is no need to put radiators under windows... Areas where curtain rails & cupboards are likely to be fixed, use plywood rather than plasterboard (still skimmed) to spread the load. Insulating internally means you can insulate around window reveals a lot easier and kill off any cold spots that might otherwise form.

Had the cavity filled with insulation quite a few years back - Didn't notice any improvement after it was done. Certainly didn't cut the heating bills, so the only real value it has (in my opinion) is a point or two on the EPC.

Keep_pedalling

FreeBear said:

meat_n2_reg said: In process of renovating 1970's semi 
Boiler replacement  in progress
New double glazing in progress 

Now looking at improving insulation

In a well insulated house, there is no need to put radiators under windows...

Unfortunately that is often the only wall available because all the others have stuff occupying them. I am currently investigating wet UF heating to get over this issue. 

Chickereeeee

FreeBear said:

meat_n2_reg said: In process of renovating 1970's semi 
Boiler replacement  in progress
New double glazing in progress 

Now looking at improving insulation

Going through the same process here with a late 1920s semi.

Windows & doors all done.

Boiler replaced earlier this year.

Loft insulated to the max, now doing walls on a room by room basis (insulating internally).

Some comments on the process to date - Well worth fitting larger radiators when installing a new boiler. Depending on the state of the pipes, it might also pay to replumb with bigger bore pipes - Doing both will put you in a better position when heat pumps are the only viable replacement for a gas boiler. In the meantime, larger radiators will mean you can run at lower flow temperatures which equates to higher boiler efficiency.

Windows & doors - Quality of installation is much better than the A++ or wot ever rating of the windows. A badly fitted A++ window will never perform as well as a well fitted plain old A one.

Wall insulation - If you plan on having external wall insulation fitted, the window sills need extending. Fitting wider sills now would mean you don't have to use extension pieces when the insulation is fitted. But ideally, windows & EWI should be done in conjunction with each other. Insulating the walls internally throws up other problems such as adequate support for radiators, curtain rails, and kitchen wall units - In a well insulated house, there is no need to put radiators under windows... Areas where curtain rails & cupboards are likely to be fixed, use plywood rather than plasterboard (still skimmed) to spread the load. Insulating internally means you can insulate around window reveals a lot easier and kill off any cold spots that might otherwise form.

Had the cavity filled with insulation quite a few years back - Didn't notice any improvement after it was done. Certainly didn't cut the heating bills, so the only real value it has (in my opinion) is a point or two on the EPC.

Careful with turning the boiler flow temperature down. In many systems, this is also used to heat the hot water tank, and government rules say this should be kept at 60 degrees C or more to avoid legionella contamination. If boiler is only heating to 40-50C, then it will not get there.

I have read the using the immersion heater once per week to get to 60C for a few hours is sufficient, not confirmed.

FreeBear

Chickereeeee said:

FreeBear said:

meat_n2_reg said: In process of renovating 1970's semi 
Boiler replacement  in progress
New double glazing in progress 

Now looking at improving insulation

Going through the same process here with a late 1920s semi.

Windows & doors all done.

Boiler replaced earlier this year.

Loft insulated to the max, now doing walls on a room by room basis (insulating internally).

Some comments on the process to date - Well worth fitting larger radiators when installing a new boiler. Depending on the state of the pipes, it might also pay to replumb with bigger bore pipes - Doing both will put you in a better position when heat pumps are the only viable replacement for a gas boiler. In the meantime, larger radiators will mean you can run at lower flow temperatures which equates to higher boiler efficiency.

Windows & doors - Quality of installation is much better than the A++ or wot ever rating of the windows. A badly fitted A++ window will never perform as well as a well fitted plain old A one.

Wall insulation - If you plan on having external wall insulation fitted, the window sills need extending. Fitting wider sills now would mean you don't have to use extension pieces when the insulation is fitted. But ideally, windows & EWI should be done in conjunction with each other. Insulating the walls internally throws up other problems such as adequate support for radiators, curtain rails, and kitchen wall units - In a well insulated house, there is no need to put radiators under windows... Areas where curtain rails & cupboards are likely to be fixed, use plywood rather than plasterboard (still skimmed) to spread the load. Insulating internally means you can insulate around window reveals a lot easier and kill off any cold spots that might otherwise form.

Had the cavity filled with insulation quite a few years back - Didn't notice any improvement after it was done. Certainly didn't cut the heating bills, so the only real value it has (in my opinion) is a point or two on the EPC.

Careful with turning the boiler flow temperature down. In many systems, this is also used to heat the hot water tank, and government rules say this should be kept at 60 degrees C or more to avoid legionella contamination. If boiler is only heating to 40-50C, then it will not get there.

I have read the using the immersion heater once per week to get to 60C for a few hours is sufficient, not confirmed.

There are no "government rules" that say hot water should be kept above 60°C in a domestic environment - If there were, it would be mandated within the Building Regulations.

What there are, is guidance from the HSE for places like care homes and public buildings that recommend (require ?) a legionella risk assessment and a recommendation to keep stored water above 60°C if there is a risk.

If your water is heated on demand by the boiler (combi), or you have a sealed pressurised DHW tank, the risk of legionella is virtually zero. The risk is increased slightly with a gravity fed system with an open storage tank. Even then, it is debatable whether a 60°C+ cycle is really necessary. With just some 400 cases reported annually in this country, there are better things to worry about.

That aside, maintaining DHW at 50-55°C will still kill the legionella bacteria. It just takes a little longer (hours rather than minutes).