Woodburner advice

RomfordNavy

Looking to install a woodburner in an existing fireplace probably using a flexable liner dropped down from the top of the chimney.  Question is at the bottom end should I have some sort of metal plate fitted above the woodburner that the flexible liner passes through or is it normal to leave the top of the burner open to the chimney?  Just wondering if fitting a plate would help to reflect more heat back into the room.

MorningcoffeeIV

If you have a big hole heading up to the chimney, that's where your heat will be headed.

FreeBear

RomfordNavy said:

Looking to install a woodburner in an existing fireplace probably using a flexable liner dropped down from the top of the chimney.  Question is at the bottom end should I have some sort of metal plate fitted above the woodburner that the flexible liner passes through or is it normal to leave the top of the burner open to the chimney?  Just wondering if fitting a plate would help to reflect more heat back into the room.

For a free standing stove, usual practice is a rigid vitreous enameled pipe out of the top, and passing through a register plate. The flexible liner is then attached to the top of the rigid pipe - Some people omit the liner, but this makes it difficult to sweep the flue properly, and you get a much better draw with the correctly sized liner.

Wood stoves can look very pretty in the right setting. But unless you have access to cheap/free logs, they are expensive to run if used as a primary source of heat. Also very messy when bringing in logs and carting out the ash. If you don't like beetles & spiders, a wood stove might not be for you. And if you are in an urban environment, expect to become the pariah of the neighbourhood.

stuart45

RomfordNavy said:

Looking to install a woodburner in an existing fireplace probably using a flexable liner dropped down from the top of the chimney.  Question is at the bottom end should I have some sort of metal plate fitted above the woodburner that the flexible liner passes through or is it normal to leave the top of the burner open to the chimney?  Just wondering if fitting a plate would help to reflect more heat back into the room.

Are you thinking of DIY, or getting a HETAS fitter to do the job?
If you use a liner the plate is known as a closure plate, and can be cement board. If no liner is used a metal register plate must be used, properly sealed. The flue must also be tested. Nowadays it's quite rare for a HETAS fitter to put in a woodburner without a flue. They might still use a metal plate if there's a risk of a piece of masonry falling down the flue and breaking a cement board. Filling the void with vermiculite stops this issue, and gives more insulation to the flue, but is a pain when renewing the flue.

Albermarle

FreeBear said:

RomfordNavy said:

Looking to install a woodburner in an existing fireplace probably using a flexable liner dropped down from the top of the chimney.  Question is at the bottom end should I have some sort of metal plate fitted above the woodburner that the flexible liner passes through or is it normal to leave the top of the burner open to the chimney?  Just wondering if fitting a plate would help to reflect more heat back into the room.

For a free standing stove, usual practice is a rigid vitreous enameled pipe out of the top, and passing through a register plate. The flexible liner is then attached to the top of the rigid pipe - Some people omit the liner, but this makes it difficult to sweep the flue properly, and you get a much better draw with the correctly sized liner.

Wood stoves can look very pretty in the right setting. But unless you have access to cheap/free logs, they are expensive to run if used as a primary source of heat. Also very messy when bringing in logs and carting out the ash. If you don't like beetles & spiders, a wood stove might not be for you. And if you are in an urban environment, expect to become the pariah of the neighbourhood.

Presumably for this reason.
‘A serious threat’: calls grow for urgent review of England’s wood-burning stoves | Air pollution | The Guardian

Dustyevsky

Albermarle said:

FreeBear said:

RomfordNavy said:

Looking to install a woodburner in an existing fireplace probably using a flexable liner dropped down from the top of the chimney.  Question is at the bottom end should I have some sort of metal plate fitted above the woodburner that the flexible liner passes through or is it normal to leave the top of the burner open to the chimney?  Just wondering if fitting a plate would help to reflect more heat back into the room.

For a free standing stove, usual practice is a rigid vitreous enameled pipe out of the top, and passing through a register plate. The flexible liner is then attached to the top of the rigid pipe - Some people omit the liner, but this makes it difficult to sweep the flue properly, and you get a much better draw with the correctly sized liner.

Wood stoves can look very pretty in the right setting. But unless you have access to cheap/free logs, they are expensive to run if used as a primary source of heat. Also very messy when bringing in logs and carting out the ash. If you don't like beetles & spiders, a wood stove might not be for you. And if you are in an urban environment, expect to become the pariah of the neighbourhood.

Presumably for this reason.
‘A serious threat’: calls grow for urgent review of England’s wood-burning stoves | Air pollution | The Guardian

It's probably because politicians of mainstream parties seem to desire more control over the populace nowadays, but in this case, their forward plans actually have some merit. Living in town with no access to one's own logs makes little sense, healthwise or in economic terms.

Way out in the country it's a different matter, and cheap firewood is one compensation for the fuel one has to burn in another way, just sourcing life's necessities.

Grenage

To be fair, there should be no reason for unhappy neighbours as long as dry wood is burned and it's run hot..  We get no smoke or smell from ours.

But yes unless your wood is free, it's an expensive form of heat.  You need to process free wood, which is fairly time consuming.

You would want a plate, yes.  You'll need it signed off by building control if you aren't using an installer.  It worked out £200 extra to have a professional do it - and I didn't have to get on the roof.

RomfordNavy

stuart45 said:

Are you thinking of DIY, or getting a HETAS fitter to do the job?
If you use a liner the plate is known as a closure plate, and can be cement board. If no liner is used a metal register plate must be used, properly sealed. The flue must also be tested. Nowadays it's quite rare for a HETAS fitter to put in a woodburner without a flue. They might still use a metal plate if there's a risk of a piece of masonry falling down the flue and breaking a cement board. Filling the void with vermiculite stops this issue, and gives more insulation to the flue, but is a pain when renewing the flue.

Thats it, Closure Plate just didn't know what it was called. Thanks

RomfordNavy

One more question is do I need the fireplace lined with Firebricks for a wood burner?

At the moment it appears to be lined with some sort of black painted Cement-board.  I was hoping to chisel that out and maybe remove one layer of bricks from the around the sides of the fireplace to allow a larger woodburner to be used.  The walls at the side of the fireplace are 16" thick, however there is a full depth blanking-stone above the fireplace which moves a bit from side to side so obviously the rest of the chimney doesn't rest on that inner layer or two of bricks.

Question is if I do that do that do I then need a liner between the woodburner and the surrounding massonary?

stuart45

Can you put a photo up? You don't have to use firebricks, but nothing combustible.

RomfordNavy

stuart45 said:
Can you put a photo up? You don't have to use firebricks, but nothing combustible.

Photos attached: