Drip from dishwasher hose inlet

FreshlyCutFlowers

I come to you yet again for advice, thank you in advance!

The dishwasher hose is leaking at the hose connection
I managed to clean and dry up the leak (it dripped every ~3 seconds, not a lot of water but it must have been going on for a while!).

I then bought a plumber wrench from lidl and tightened the connection because it was too hard to do by hand. I leveled the dishwasher while it was pulled out from the cabinet and ran a few cycles and it stayed dry, I rejoiced, feeling like a master plumber.

When I pushed the dishwasher back in however, it started dripping again, while I was pushing it in, before I even ran another cycle.
I think this happened due to putting different pressure on the inlet hose  when I pushed the dishwasher in. I have no way to control exactly how the hose 'lands' behind there but from what I can see it got weighed down a bit more than it was when the machine was out. I think you'll get the idea from my attached picture.

I took the dishwasher back out, and disconnected the cable this time. I cleaned the connection after inspecting it, it looks fine to me but I attached images for confirmation from some pros. Upon connecting it and putting the water back on it started dripping again despite this.

My next step is to buy a hose though I see no fault with it. Other than that I think I have to call someone out. Any ideas welcome!

There's a slight 'bow' in this pipe which I find unsettling, but it is what it is and hopefully not an issue!

The red area marks where the I think the water is coming out when attached to the pipe.

Pulling this plastic bit back I wondered if there was an issue between the metal part and the rubber front, but it looks fine?

I thought this front bit also looked fine but adding here in case you disagree

Lastly, closeup of the wall connection. I don't see any problems here other than the previous owner had it mounted so close to the wall they had to take some wall out for the plastic bit to fit onto the pipe.

ThisIsWeird

Annoying, isn't it?!

First, I'm pleased to inform you that you've won the 'Best descriptive post' award, 2023.
Ok, the 'bow' - I presume you mean in the copper pipe? Nothing to worry about.
2nd pic - the metal collar part of the hose. Yes, these rarely give trouble. But, not to say it ain't guilty.
That leaves the rubber washer, and the metal face of the valve. The valve face looks fine, but the washer looks quite compressed where it mates with the valve, so I'd be suspecting that first of all.
There's also a chance that the water is seeping under that washer, and escaping from behind. So, first thing to do is to prise off the washer, and check the mating surface where is sits on the round plastic part of the hose end.

Do you have any silicone grease? Always worth having a wee tube as it's the ideal stuff to lube rubber parts. So, washer off, check and clean all visible surfaces, smear with sili grease both sides, and refit the other way around. It should not drip when just done up hand tight. See if it does.
Or, see if you can get a replacement washer.

Buy a new hose if needed. 

FreshlyCutFlowers

ThisIsWeird said:

Annoying, isn't it?!

First, I'm pleased to inform you that you've won the 'Best descriptive post' award, 2023.
Ok, the 'bow' - I presume you mean in the copper pipe? Nothing to worry about.
2nd pic - the metal collar part of the hose. Yes, these rarely give trouble. But, not to say it ain't guilty.
That leaves the rubber washer, and the metal face of the valve. The valve face looks fine, but the washer looks quite compressed where it mates with the valve, so I'd be suspecting that first of all.
There's also a chance that the water is seeping under that washer, and escaping from behind. So, first thing to do is to prise off the washer, and check the mating surface where is sits on the round plastic part of the hose end.

Do you have any silicone grease? Always worth having a wee tube as it's the ideal stuff to lube rubber parts. So, washer off, check and clean all visible surfaces, smear with sili grease both sides, and refit the other way around. It should not drip when just done up hand tight. See if it does.
Or, see if you can get a replacement washer.

Buy a new hose if needed. 

Thanks! I don't really know what I'm doing so I find over-explaining is the way to go to ensure I don't waste any helpers time with wrong info  

• Copper pipe bow: Indeed and excellent to hear, thank you!
• Metal Collar: Excellent, thank you!

Apologies for not understanding what you mean. So the valve that looks fine is the bit attached to the copper pipe with the threading on the outside?

And the compressed washer is the black part of the end on the dishwasher hose? If yes I didnt realise this part can be taken off, do I just stick a sharp thing between the 'white' hard plastic and black rubber and twist?

If you could be so kind and explain a bit more about which part I am prying off and is replaceable, that would be fantastic!

If I could avoid having to replace the whole hose (and potentially screw up the other connection in the process) that would be great as right now I only have one end leaking

I don't have any silicone grease but as I'm learning DIY my box of stuff keeps growing, what is another jar of stuff. Could you recommend a particular product?

ThisIsWeird

FreshlyCutFlowers said:

ThisIsWeird said:

Annoying, isn't it?!

First, I'm pleased to inform you that you've won the 'Best descriptive post' award, 2023.
Ok, the 'bow' - I presume you mean in the copper pipe? Nothing to worry about.
2nd pic - the metal collar part of the hose. Yes, these rarely give trouble. But, not to say it ain't guilty.
That leaves the rubber washer, and the metal face of the valve. The valve face looks fine, but the washer looks quite compressed where it mates with the valve, so I'd be suspecting that first of all.
There's also a chance that the water is seeping under that washer, and escaping from behind. So, first thing to do is to prise off the washer, and check the mating surface where is sits on the round plastic part of the hose end.

Do you have any silicone grease? Always worth having a wee tube as it's the ideal stuff to lube rubber parts. So, washer off, check and clean all visible surfaces, smear with sili grease both sides, and refit the other way around. It should not drip when just done up hand tight. See if it does.
Or, see if you can get a replacement washer.

Buy a new hose if needed. 

Thanks! I don't really know what I'm doing so I find over-explaining is the way to go to ensure I don't waste any helpers time with wrong info  

• Copper pipe bow: Indeed and excellent to hear, thank you!
• Metal Collar: Excellent, thank you!

Apologies for not understanding what you mean. So the valve that looks fine is the bit attached to the copper pipe with the threading on the outside?

And the compressed washer is the black part of the end on the dishwasher hose? If yes I didnt realise this part can be taken off, do I just stick a sharp thing between the 'white' hard plastic and black rubber and twist?

If you could be so kind and explain a bit more about which part I am prying off and is replaceable, that would be fantastic!

If I could avoid having to replace the whole hose (and potentially screw up the other connection in the process) that would be great as right now I only have one end leaking

I don't have any silicone grease but as I'm learning DIY my box of stuff keeps growing, what is another jar of stuff. Could you recommend a particular product?

Re the valve - the important bit, as far as the connection is concerned, is the round edge that the rubber washer presses against. That round flat edge looks fine - it doesn't have any obvious grooves or grit that could prevent a good seal.

Yes, the rubber washer is usually removable, and yes you just slip a blunt flat thing in there and prise it off. Or, possibly just grip the edge of the washer and pull... I think it should come off, but there's a chance it's crimped on and won't.

If it does, then check and clean up all the surfaces. I often have success with turning the washer over, although a new one would be much better.

Not many folk will have a tube of sili grease, and it isn't essential, but it's handy stuff for such plumbing DIYs. No special type, just a wee tube will go a long way. Possibly a smear of cooking oil with do, but not sure how this reacts with rubber longer term.

Alanp

I would say just change the washer, if the hose has an angled end that fits the inlet of the d/w, change it round so the angle points downward on the copper pipe, of course you’d have to make sure that the hose on the d/w didn’t kink when you pushed it back, you could also buy a longer hose that might loop better as you pushed it back and avoid kinks…

ThisIsWeird

You gotta love Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-washing-machine-hose-washers-3-4-10-pack/53909

You shouldn't need sili grease as well - just wet the washer before fitting.

greyteam1959

Buy a complete new inlet hose.
That one you have looks ancient.
They are cheap enough.

ThisIsWeird

greyteam1959 said:

Buy a complete new inlet hose.
That one you have looks ancient.
They are cheap enough.

He's right It's the sensible thing to do.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/washing-machine-hose-blue-1-5m-x-3-4-/43260

FreshlyCutFlowers

I pried the washer of and didnt really see any dirt or anything in there so I'm gonna save myself some time and at least try to replace that part as consensus seem to be nothing wrong with the overall setup.

I will replace the whole hose, and buy an extra washer for the future, and report back.

The hoses seem to be either 1.5m or 2.5m for the cheaper ones. I simulated an extra meter in there and I think it may be equally problematic to have the extra hose in due to how much other cables is on the floor out of the picture frame.

I have an idea to 'lift' the hose on the right by attaching something to the wood bit next to the cabinet wall. I think this may stop the pressure around the hose head when I push the d/w in.

I tried just zip tying the hose to a big screw just now but when I put the water pressure on the hose 'jumped' out my contraption

edit: rephrased to make it clear I was talking about hose not cable

ThisIsWeird

Er, it's a 'hose' and not a 'cable'

You aren't the only one with this sort of problem - these darned hoses can be a real pain. As you've also surmised, a longer 'ose ain't always better either.

What I tend to try is to pull out the W/M just so's it's just clear of the w'top, and then turn it through 45o so you have access to its back, but it isn't pulled out any further than it actually needs to be.

Now check out where the supply valve is and which way it's facing. Ditto with the W/M connection. Now work out the best way you can have the hose going in a large, open, circular loop, free from kinks, when the W/M is pushed back in. Think of a 'spring' shape - in this case, likely a spring with only one spiral - and try and get the hose into that shape. It'll be an extended spring whilst the W/M is out, and like a flat, compressed spring once pushed into place. You want the hose in one large loop, with no kinks or sharp bends, and joining their two connectors as straight as possible, without a bending stress. 

This will mean that the bent hose connector at the W/M end will end up pointing a possibly-unexpected way, likely sideways, possibly even slightly above horizontal, either left or right-facing, but almost certainly not pointing straight downwards as some folk automatically set up their machines, only to find the hose gets in the way. It'll depend on your setup, of course, where your two connectors are positioned, and the length of your hose, but just have a 'play' with it to get this nice loop with no sharp bends, and as straight an angle to the connectors as possible.

Tease the hose into that wide one-turn loop and tighten the connectors firmly at each end by hand, with the hose unstressed and not twisted along its length (yes, this will mean that the valve-end connector will likely need loosening slightly too, so the hose can rotate within the connector to remove twisting stresses. If you don't loosen the valve end, the hose will be rigid, and you'll almost certainly not be able to get it into a nice, loose, unstressed loop.)

If the hose still insists on collapsing and getting in the way as you push the W/M backwards, then another trick is similar to what you've tried - tie a cord to the upper part of the loop and bring it over the back and top of the machine. Hold that cord - stick it to the lid with a bit of tape if necessary as you push the machine in - gently pull it as the machine goes in, so you are keeping the loop upwards, and it hopefully keep the hose in your desired loop. You can leave the string there - a bit of tape.

As much as there is one, the 'secret' to this 'mare is to form the hose into this circular, unstressed, loop before pushing the machine in - like a pulled spring being allowed to gently close.

Mr.Generous

Its a 3/4" hose washer you need. The one fitted needs replacing. Very common issue. New washer and it's job done.