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Shaker Doors – "Proper" Way vs Faker Shaker?
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paperclap said:I've heard of Titman, but haven't looked into them extensively. But think they're the most expensive of the bunch?
After a 6.35mm slot cutter (for the above task).
Trend do one for ~£25. Max depth of slot cut is ~9mm. Not a huuuuge amount.
Wealden format is in bits. So after I've accounted for the slot cutter bit, arbor and a bearing, it's ~£40. Worth the extra? You do of course get the flexibility of interchanging bearing depths and doubling up on cutters in the future, if need be. Max depth of slot cut is ~13mm on this one. Just that bit better for loose tenons, I think?Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'0 -
Thanks man!
When I come to do another wardrobe in the bedroom, there'll be (six) doors that'll be 50cm wide by (at least) 2 metres tall. If those doors are done the "proper" way (loose tenons method), do you think they'll run the risk of warping?
The Mrs wants a mirror on the inside on one of the doors, so might have made the decision for me anyway!0 -
paperclap said:Thanks man!
When I come to do another wardrobe in the bedroom, there'll be (six) doors that'll be 50cm wide by (at least) 2 metres tall. If those doors are done the "proper" way (loose tenons method), do you think they'll run the risk of warping?
The Mrs wants a mirror on the inside on one of the doors, so might have made the decision for me anyway!
When it comes to making them I would consider using good quality timber for the stiles and rails just for added stability, however this is just my opinion and do a bit research nearer the time.Maybe, just once, someone will call me 'Sir' without adding, 'You're making a scene.'0
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