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Filling in around new socket

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  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
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    edited 17 June 2023 at 10:42AM
    If you've got plasterboard, do what FreeBear suggested. I guess the sparks was going to put the socket a bit further over, but found another box in the way from behind. He then moved it over and hit the stud, so ended up using a metal back box. Ideally, the first fix should have been done, the wall repaired, and then the second fix done. 
    Not great having the cables offset to the socket if someone is fixing a skirting and thinks they are below the socket.
  • grumbler
    grumbler Posts: 58,629 Forumite
    Part of the Furniture 10,000 Posts Name Dropper Photogenic
    edited 17 June 2023 at 10:49AM
    Again, I see bricks behind. Is it just me?
    Also, is it two layers of plasterboard on this side? If so, remove gently the top layer around the hole, then  shape a patch piece and glue it to the bottom layer. or use a piece of plywood instead and plaster it.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,597 Forumite
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    grumbler said:
    Again, I see bricks behind. Is it just me?
    That's the back of the plasterboard the other side. It does look like brick though.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,597 Forumite
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    stuart45 said:
    I guess the sparks was going to put the socket a bit further over, but found another box in the way from behind. He then moved it over and hit the stud, so ended up using a metal back box. Ideally, the first fix should have been done, the wall repaired, and then the second fix done. 
    Not great having the cables offset to the socket if someone is fixing a skirting and thinks they are below the socket.
    Yes, looks like that's what's happened 
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
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    The best way, depending on how by you are with electrics, is to undo the socket and remove, cut the piece of board out to the studs. You could stick a 2x2 batten across as a noggin, and then tack the new board with the exact size cut for the back box.
  • FFHillbilly
    FFHillbilly Posts: 500 Forumite
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    round here we call those egg box walls. googling them I see they are also referred to as "paramount partitions"
    I think I'd cut a square out bigger than the current hole, remove the front of the double socket and cut an opening in the new board for that, and then stick the new board in with dry wall adhesive. It's going to be difficult to get battens in to screw the board on because of the eggbox bits, I'm not saying it's impossible but I wouldn't like to bother trying
    you will probably need 10mm (or 3/8') board to repair
    the cables are in a safe zone as they are in line with the socket on the other side of the partition
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
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    The cables should be in the safe zone of the socket on this side. 
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,597 Forumite
    Seventh Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    round here we call those egg box walls. googling them I see they are also referred to as "paramount partitions"
    I think I'd cut a square out bigger than the current hole, remove the front of the double socket and cut an opening in the new board for that, and then stick the new board in with dry wall adhesive. It's going to be difficult to get battens in to screw the board on because of the eggbox bits, I'm not saying it's impossible but I wouldn't like to bother trying
    Yes. The egg box type core explains the grid pattern that's visible.
  • danrv
    danrv Posts: 1,597 Forumite
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    stuart45 said:
    The best way, depending on how by you are with electrics, is to undo the socket and remove
    Brother's going to do the work but doesn't want to touch the electrics. I think it may be a case of making good what's there without cutting out sections.
  • stuart45
    stuart45 Posts: 4,807 Forumite
    Sixth Anniversary 1,000 Posts Name Dropper
    If it's a Paramount you won't have noggins, and only studs at the top, bottom and ends of panels.
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