We'd like to remind Forumites to please avoid political debate on the Forum... Read More »
We're aware that some users are experiencing technical issues which the team are working to resolve. See the Community Noticeboard for more info. Thank you for your patience.
📨 Have you signed up to the Forum's new Email Digest yet? Get a selection of trending threads sent straight to your inbox daily, weekly or monthly!
Loft Insulation
Options

ifti
Posts: 349 Forumite


Hi,
i will be carrying out some loft insulation in a few days but just had one question, i want to know if its ok for me to compress 150/170mm loft roll insulation into 100mm spaces becuase we have planks of wood on top, which we will lift and put back.
i would like to know if it will be just as effective or shall i stick to 100mm rolls.
Thanks on advance
i will be carrying out some loft insulation in a few days but just had one question, i want to know if its ok for me to compress 150/170mm loft roll insulation into 100mm spaces becuase we have planks of wood on top, which we will lift and put back.
i would like to know if it will be just as effective or shall i stick to 100mm rolls.
Thanks on advance
0
Comments
-
Failing this, a compressed 170mm will be more efficient than an uncompressed 100mm and better than nothing.0
-
how about compressed 150mm0
-
I just had my loft done. Did it through the Gas company (Altantic). It only cost £190, and thats for a 4 bed detached house.
It took the guy 90 minutes, and there was very little mess or disruption. They blow loose stuff into the space.
I don't think it's worth the effort to do it yourself anymore. It would have cost me at least £190 if I had bought rolls of stuff from the local DIY store anyway.0 -
Good point for the blown stuff. It will entrap air (air is the best form of insulation) and fit snuggly in the given space.0
-
Good point about screwing additional timbers as opposed to nailing them. If adopting this method then it is also adviseable to 'crown' them first. 'Straight' timber is very much a misnomer. Look along the length and see which way it bends, and mark it accordingly.
If the additional timbers span load bearing walls, then the Crown needs to be on top, in order to pull any sag out of the underlying joists. Alternatively, if the additional timbers are centred on a load bearing structure, then the Crown needs to be on the underside so as to 'lift' the unsupported areas.
Another alternative would be to use wood composite 'I' beams, although I have only ever seen them on U.S. Discovery Channel programes. They have the advantage of strength whilst being light in weight.
One question that intrigues me, and to which I have yet to find an answer is, "What is the thermal value of wood." In the context that, with the current recommendation for insulation being 11 inches, and with ceiling joists normally being 75mm. 20mm chipboard or ply, above 75mm of insulation will have a thermal characteristic of a certain value. How does that value correlate to a specific depth of fibrous insulation?0
This discussion has been closed.
Confirm your email address to Create Threads and Reply

Categories
- All Categories
- 351K Banking & Borrowing
- 253.1K Reduce Debt & Boost Income
- 453.6K Spending & Discounts
- 244K Work, Benefits & Business
- 598.9K Mortgages, Homes & Bills
- 176.9K Life & Family
- 257.3K Travel & Transport
- 1.5M Hobbies & Leisure
- 16.1K Discuss & Feedback
- 37.6K Read-Only Boards